Shaking while braking

nikki522 · #1 01-06-2005, 08:22 PM

Whenever I have to brake hard, or if I am going down a hill (I go to school in the Poconos) my car shakes really bad. Its just the front and it feels like its only in the tires....but it makes my steering wheel shake too. My brakes, or tires, make like a growling and thumping sound. Sometimes I feel like it is just easier to pump the brake and that helps, but i still would like to know what is wrong with my car. It is a 98 coupe...the tires are not even 2 years old and i got new break pads about 3 or 4 months ago and the brakes are about 2 years old and are in good shape.....so I'm confused on what it could be. I'm in college and I dont have much money, so I hope it is nothing too expensive. Please help! Thank you!

pimpendacavi06 · #2 01-06-2005, 09:26 PM

i have the same problem but my interior likes to shake and rattle to i just let it be i dont think its a huge deal just a lil vibration in the brakes.

Classicrocjunkie · #3 01-06-2005, 10:28 PM

when vibrations are felt in the steering wheel its from the front rotors and when they are in the pedal it is from the drums. Now both of you probably have warped rotor. Simple fix... auto parts store and pic up a new set and new brakes while your at it since they have formed to the incorrect pattern.. remove wheel, get a c-clamp and compress the piston..remove 2 slider bolts from caliper with 3/8 allen. hang with a wire off your springs and do not let hang from the brake line, old pads will pop out and new ones will pop in. Also inspect the caliper for fluid leak around the piston. Depending on how long the rotor has been on there will determine how hard it will be to get off. If need be, get a hammer and hit inbetween the studs and it will losen its self from the hub. Get a can of brake cleaner.. Clean the caliper and spray new rotors will brake cleaner to rid them of grim or oil... install all in reverse.. also before driving pump the brake or you will have none till the piston gets fluid back to them... good luck!

Joe_Cool97 · #4 01-07-2005, 12:38 AM

good info

nikki522 · #5 01-07-2005, 08:47 AM

hmmm, ok..i dont know much about cars to do all this work, I wish I did, but I'll make more of a problem. How much do you think it will cost to get this done at a shop? What could have caused this? My brakes are fairly new. Thanks for the info.

nikki522 · #6 01-07-2005, 09:35 AM

Oh, and also I don't want to sound like an idiot when I go to the shop so can anyone tell me points to make with the mechanic so that they don't try to overcharge me or try to replace what isn't needed? I don't know much about cars, I'm blonde, short, and I look like I'm sixteen, so usually I get overcharged and not know it until it's too late. So any pointers to sound a little educated about cars for when I get my car fixed would be greatly appreciated.

Langning · #7 01-07-2005, 11:09 AM

Back in 2000/1 when I replaced my front rotor/pad at Midias. I think they charged about $100 for the front pads & $150-$200 on the 2 rotors.

4dr92cavi4cyl · #8 01-07-2005, 11:42 AM

JESUS! The rotors for my 92 were only $15 bucks each from Advance Auto. I think they are the same for the 2nd & 3rd generation Cavys. ALWAYS buy your own parts, let someone else install if you don't feel comfortable, those places will rip you off on parts, labor is a different story. Most pads are lifetime warranty, so once you buy a set, go back to the same place and get a new set for free, just take you old ones back when you're done so you get the core charge refunded! Front brakes aren't very difficult to change, except for the parts that get stuck.

Langning · #9 01-07-2005, 12:14 PM

I replaced my rotor/pads again in 2004 (a friend of mine offered to guide me) and 2 rotors+pads was $80 from autozone. Yes the repair shops would charge x2 or x3 the cost on parts and add labor at $50-75/hr.

jerseycavyz24 · #10 01-07-2005, 01:31 PM

i got mine off line they were drilled n slotted cost me about $65 including brake pads. my mechanic installed them for like $120.

Classicrocjunkie · #11 01-07-2005, 05:00 PM

^ nice cavy... Are you lowered?

noshun · #12 01-07-2005, 06:03 PM

Wapred Rotors for sure. If you drived on hills a lot and use your brakes alot then you are heating the rotors up a lot and this will cause warping! This is the major Downfall of an Auto as it offers very little engine braking! If you want to lear how to repair your car replacing the rotors and pads yourself is a good way to get satred as it's a failry easy job and if you invest in a Haynes/Chilton manual it gives you a step-by-step so you'll save some$$$$

4dr92cavi4cyl · #13 01-10-2005, 03:54 PM

Where did you get slotted/drilled rotors that cheap? I bet they are drilled all the way through which will crack the rotor eventually. The best one are "divited", where the slot and holes are just barley engraved into the surface, and not all the way through.

big dude1 · #14 01-10-2005, 04:39 PM

Chiltons manuals suck ass go with haynes

Chiltons isnt descriptive at all but haynes is pretty in depth so if your a beginner then use haynes...

01Cavy · #15 01-10-2005, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4dr92cavi4cyl

Where did you get slotted/drilled rotors that cheap? I bet they are drilled all the way through which will crack the rotor eventually. The best one are "divited", where the slot and holes are just barley engraved into the surface, and not all the way through.

Yeah seriously. I have powerslot rotors on mine and paid about $130 a set. (Because of my and the companies mistakes I ended up with 3 sets...which is 2 sets too much) For $65 they must not be good quality.

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