Ideas for high lift jack

[ChrisOB]

My 2001 X is stock, except for a trailer hitch. I can use a high lift jack on the hitch, but as far as I can tell, there is no substantial structure in the front that could be used for the jack(someone please correct me if I'm wrong).
I've worked out a couple ways I could add jack points to the front. I can weld, etc., and have the basic equipment. But, I'm not real happy with the ideas I have, so far.
Has anyone out there confronted this problem? I'm looking for ideas. I like to make whatever modification be as unobtrusive as posible. Thanks

[Schludwiller]

It's pretty unsafe to use a hi-lift jack on a stock Xterra. Even using a hitch can have the jack slip unexpectedly. Most people with Hi-Lifts also have rock sliders which provide a flat surface, you just need to open the doors to prevent accidental body damage. Also if you have an ARB bumper they have a really nice attachment that locks the jack to the bumper for the safest option I can see. I believe there is a tire strap, but I have no experience with it or it's safety.

[OffroadX]

The hitch can do the trick, but I advise against lifting in or under the receiver box itself, the X will easily shift to one side or the other if both rear tires are lifted.
The "tire strap" is actually a triangulated strap with a couple of hooks that you insert into the spokes of the wheel, but it's of little benefit. If you want to change a tire, well, you'll need something to place under the axle once you've lifted it so you can take the weight off the wheel and remove it. Off-road, if you want to lift the tire to get something under it for traction, note that you'll use up at least 2 feet of jack travel before it even starts to lift the tire.
And of course, the hooks can't even get into the space between the rear wheel and the drum if you have the factory 15" wheels.

You really need sliders to make much use of a Hi-Lift.
Brent

[Schludwiller]

On a side note, I carry a hi-lift and have still been able to use my stock jack for every offroad jacking situation I've been in. Maybe it's the terrain, or maybe I just don't get in back stucks. I carry it for insurance, but will give the stock jack a shot first.

[ChrisOB]

Thanks for your input. I appreciate the sound advice. I did a little looking around for sliders. Shrockworks makes some sliders that appear to be what I should have.
Any preferences on your part? I wonder if additional bolt holes need to be drilled in the frame to mount them? Thanks again

[OffroadX]

Shrock sliders kick ass, I love mine. No drilling, purely bolt-on.

[Schludwiller]

I believe all rock sliders made for the Xterra are bolt on since the truck frame comes threaded already for the aluminum step rails. At least every slider I've ever seen.

[ChrisOB]

Thanks for your input on my question. I'll have to get those sliders!

[ChrisOB]

Originally Posted by Schludwiller

I believe all rock sliders made for the Xterra are bolt on since the truck frame comes threaded already for the aluminum step rails. At least every slider I've ever seen.

I have another related question. I'm also very interested in adding some shocks. Like everyone else, my stock X's ride needs improvement. I've read through the suspension threads and have a basic idea what I need to do. The question is, if I add sliders and Bilstein shocks, which shock should I get? Stock or 10%? I have no need to add a bumper/winch.

[OffroadX]

I have the 20% stiffer Bilsteins, and unless my X is loaded down, the rear is way to jittery. Front is OK. I can live with it, but most wouldn't.
10% would probably be acceptable, though even the OEM valving is a big improvement over stock. If you don't tow or carry much weight in the back, I'd say 10% up front and OEM rear might be a good setup.

[Schludwiller]

Yeah, don't get 20% unless you're offroading or have some significant weight (I've got steel bumpers front and rear, rock sliders, sliderz, steel roof rack, winch, etc). If you're staying on-road probably get stock as a smooth ride is more important.

[ChrisOB]

Originally Posted by OffroadX

I have the 20% stiffer Bilsteins, and unless my X is loaded down, the rear is way to jittery. Front is OK. I can live with it, but most wouldn't.
10% would probably be acceptable, though even the OEM valving is a big improvement over stock. If you don't tow or carry much weight in the back, I'd say 10% up front and OEM rear might be a good setup.

Excuse my ignorance but what does OEM refer to? I can tell I have alot of acronyms to learn!
I stay mostly on the road but often end up on washboard dirt/gravel. Sometimes we'll do a "light weight" offroad trip. Usually I pull a small, high clearance utility trailer containing camp gear, water, extra gas, fire wood, etc. But, it's not an exceptional amount of tongue weight.

[Schludwiller]

Original Equipment Manfuacturer. Google It! Most terms you don't recognize can be found on Google by typing the phrase in. That will get you up and running on all the acronyms.

Shocks keep your tires on the road. The stiffer the shock, the harder it will try and keep the tire in contact with the terrain you're on, but it will also have less "give" which translates into the feeling of harshness. Soft shocks on washboards and such will let the tires "hop" and you lose traction, plus your vehicle will roll and dive more with extra weight.

Shocks don't help with load bearing, like your trailer. That's the job of the springs.

A lot to think about I guess. You can't go wrong with the stock valving. The improvement over the OEM ones will be enough of a change for you to appreciate. You're gonna have to decide if you drive on enough rougher terrain than the road to need the 10%'s. I'll go out on a limb and guess you don't need them.

[ChrisOB]

Schludwiller & OffroadX,
I went ahead and ordered the Bilstein shocks for my X. I've replaced shocks on other vehicles before but not on a 4WD. Anything special I should know about installing the shocks?
ChrisOB

[OffroadX]

Nah, it's pretty straight-forward. Just lift the end or corner you're working on so the suspension is at max extension/droop, and go to work.
Rear will require the swaybar to be disconnected for one side.
Front is a bit tricky, I highly recommend using/getting a ratcheting box-end wrench in the correct size for the nut on top, either for the factory or Bilstein ones, I forget, but it will make the job go a lot quicker.
Otherwise, it's a chore squeezing the new shocks so you can get it in place, particularly in the front. Rear isn't that bad though.

Oh, I forgot, up front, do NOT over-tighten the lower shock bolt. The bushings on my Bilsteins did not seem to be as wide as the OEM ones, and in my attempt to tighten the lower bolts to the factory specs caused the tabs on the lower control arm to bend towards each other and trap the shock between them. Either get them "pretty tight" and use some locktite on the threads and leave it be, or perhaps use a couple of thick washers nearly as large as the bushing diameter with an inner diameter that will go over the bolt on either side of the bushing.

Brent