changed the CTS and cleaning the IAT tomorrow...

[bobturismo]

not my car so it's not here.

96 sl2 i think

only over heats at idle after a while, has new everything, including copper CTS. didn't check to see if fan turns on at 3/4 yet, but I'd like to know where the sender for hte gauge is and what resistances it's supposed to read.
I should check the relay too, huh?

also the car hesitates and pulls two codes 113, 118. So I'm gonna clkean the IAT tomorrow (113) but the 118 is a transmission code, it seems to lock up in overdrie then when you accelerate it has a hard time un-locking the converter (feels like anywho), If you tap the brake pedal before accelerating it doesn't do it (tapping hte brakes is supposed to unlock teh converter as far as I know)


did I miss anything? and does anyone know what code 118 or 1118 is ?
Now I haven't replaced the Trans temp sensor, but I noticed that when the tranny filter was last changed the wires to the sensor

[gat1954]

1995 SL1 SO Cam 4 Cylinder....

Testing Factory Saturn ECTS 2120-5106 $ 18.70 and
Standard Motor Products ECTS TX73 $9.73

Overheating Problem.... Coolant Pissing out out of tank, when Cooling fan doesn't come Sitting in an Idle situation...and Engine Coolant Temp like 220 degrees water Temp... Of course the factory gauge Doesn't read Properly by going to only 1/2, and that should be a Safety Recall initself....

New Coolant... in

ECTS, changed to factory Saturn today 18 bucks out of San Diego... after changing out from others.... the factory one is Coded 2102- 5106 Dealership
Engine Coolant Temp Sensor...

Fan Comes on when AC switched on.. and toggled off... Significant drop in Water Temperature gauge from 1/2 to 1/4 or less... after a minute..

I also decided to do some connections on the Cap of the Sensor

Fan comes on when two Little Needles are placed into connector together...
A person wonders if they Seat Right..

I checked the Old one...... in a Pot of Boiling water, after connecting two wires to it, very carefully with a micro connector,,, of course an old Cap connector is better ... but Mine worked......
I couldn't get my Electric Stove to do better, than 220.0 in which the Standard was basically the same except it got to .01 near 220...

Come on Guys,, why would the factory Kick on a Coolant Fan at 226 Degrees, after Coolant is getting lost, and that engine is Hot.... and testing the Rubber Hose's Clamps, and the Coolant caps.... etc...

I think for necessary Safety, and Driving Importance, that coolant inside the Engine shouldn't be getting over Boiling, without calling the Electric Fan On..... we need a new workout Part here,, like 200 Degrees, 210 max...

The Bottom Line is a person sitting in traffic now, has to Use Manual Controls, to switch on the AC on and Of, making sure the Motor is on,,, to activate the Cooling fan...

THIS IS REDICULOUS... to be running over 220 degrees, and the Fan doesn;t come on Automatically...


Continutiy Ohm reading's

Factory ECTS

80 Degrees 2.3
90 2.0
100 1.5
110 1.0
120 1.0
130 .7
140 .6
150 .5
160 .4
170 .3
180 .3
190 .2
200 .2
210 .2
220 .2



gat1954, according to the Factory Service Manual, if the coolant rises above 223 °F, or if the air conditioning compressor is turned On, the PCM will supply a ground to the engine coolant fan relay, energizing the relay and the engine cooling fan. According to specifications, the sensor resistances for the range of temperatures measured are as follows:

Deg F / Resistance (Ohms)
--------------------------
-40 / 77k-109k
-20 / 39k-53k
0 / 21k-27k
20 / 11k-15k
40 / 6.6k-8.4k
60 / 3.9k - 4.5k
80 / 2.4k-2.7k
100 / 1.5k-1.7k
120 / .98k-1.1k
140 / 650-730
160 / 430-480
180 / 302-334
200 / 215-235
220 / 159-172 <-- PCM trips the fan on right about here
248 / 104-113
284 / 63-68

guys are Missing One KEY point...

The ENGINE is not Normally operating at 226 Degrees.. ....... when going down the Road, at SPEED, with wind hitting the Radiator,,.,,,,, what Temperature do you think the Engine Temperature inside is operating at... I bet at the thermostat Temperature..
185-195... Now coolant might Help Hold heat,,,
and a Good Cap will Hold Pressure,, but who needs all that Pressure Build up !!!

Big difference between 190 and 226.... and the Engine Hot Over Heating temperatures occur at an IDLE ENVIRONMENT.... and that the Cooling Fan is supposed to do it's job, to bring that Temperature Down... since there is nothing else to Cool it.....
THIS IS THE NUMBER ONE PROBLEM WITH THE SATURN... !!!!!!
Stated to Me by the parts Man at the DEALERSHIP IN SAN DIEGO CALIFORNIA !!!!

It' real tough when the Factory gauge on the Dash,,, is normally at the 1/4 Mark,,, and Overheats at the 1/2 Mark. So who knows what Temperature is in there ...... So the average new Person, not educated, who jumps into these Saturns can't determine if the Car is Overheating because of the Faulty Gauge... when It looks Normal !!! This is not ranting,, this is a Fact, on many people that express the same Problem on this Forum

A person shouldn't have to activate the AC, on and Off, to send a Ground to the Relay...... or activate the Internal Heating inside Fan,, to dissipate Heat...
Because of a an Obvious Faulty Factory ECTS Setting at 226 or higher....

I think that Saturn, or some other Parts people should consider make an ECTS, that Activates the Electronic Cooling Fan at Much Lower Temperatures, than 226 ..... Who Needs to have Head gasket problems....

tested a Standard Motor Products ECTS part Number TX 73 , in a Pot of water Boiling on the Stove, with two Met Thermometers in there,,,, .... This part is made of Solid Brass Senser going into the Engine.. and the ohm drops to 1.0 around the 220 d mark... ... Price $ 9.50