trouble starting

vladlos · #1 12-20-2004, 07:40 AM

well....now that's its super cold out, especially in the mornings, i go to start my car up and it cranks so slowly. it takes atleast 4 or 5 tries to start my car up. when it starts up it feels like it starts up only on like 3 cylinders until the fourth one kicks in and its really rough until it warms up a bit. i'm sure this is a common thing with alot of old cars, but is there a way i can solve this problem some how? something for my ignition? or some kinda additives or something?

91civichatch2571 · #2 12-20-2004, 08:52 AM

put it in a garage overnight. Its completely normal though for your car to take a little longer to crank over and start when its this fuggin cold out. what does your battery have for cca?

bambam89lx · #3 12-20-2004, 09:37 AM

get a battery that has at least 600-700 cca (cold cranking amps). It's nothing but your battery that makes you have those rough slow cranking starts. You don't need to get an optima. I have a die hard. It's huge and it fits awkard with my B20 and aem cold air so I have to angle it but it doesn't move.
The rough idle is just because of the cold start. It's not running on 3 cylinders...it's just idling below it's normal and optimal idle setting so it sounds like its almost gonna stall then the idle rises as the temperature of your motor rises.
One more thing, when you start your car (especially in the winter) don't rev it or drive it until the temperature gauge has reached the operating temperature (just below half way). This will preserve the life of your engine including your rings and cylinders. It will also ensure that your engine is properly lubricated before you drive it.
Especially with these 4th gens, you may notice that after the winter (if you have harsh winters like up here in CT) that your car may burn a little more oil than the previous summer...that's because of driving it cold...one of the worst things you can do to your 4g..or any car.

vladlos · #4 12-20-2004, 03:56 PM

i have an interstate battery, it is quite old tho. not too sure how many cca's it has, i'll check up on that, thanks alot.

TheSilentChamber · #5 12-20-2004, 04:00 PM

My motor never heats up past the 1/4 way mark, even in the summer in texas.

vladlos · #6 12-20-2004, 04:08 PM

yea, same here....kinda. mine only heats up to the 1/3 mark

TheSilentChamber · #7 12-20-2004, 04:10 PM

I dont have a 1/3rd mark.

vladlos · #8 12-20-2004, 04:14 PM

mine's imaginary

4-Door Flunky · #9 12-20-2004, 04:15 PM

Your car will warm up faster if you drive it immediately. Letting it idle in the driveway is bad, if it has lots of miles, because that's when your oil pressure is lowest. Letting the car just sit there running at low rpm and low oil pressure is terrible if the engine is at all worn, say, over 120,000 miles.
On the other hand, revving the hell out of it when it is cold is also terrible. You should let your car warm up for a minute or two if you jump on the freeway less than a block from your house.
Otherwise, save the fuel and the motor by starting it up and driving as soon as it will get out of the driveway without stalling.
Flunky
PS-I agree with BamBam, get a battery with more CCA. I took the huge one out of my 68 Oldsmobile and put in my Civic, and it spins like mad, even when it's cold!

91civichatch2571 · #10 12-20-2004, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4-Door Flunky

Your car will warm up faster if you drive it immediately. Letting it idle in the driveway is bad, if it has lots of miles, because that's when your oil pressure is lowest. Letting the car just sit there running at low rpm and low oil pressure is terrible if the engine is at all worn, say, over 120,000 miles.
On the other hand, revving the hell out of it when it is cold is also terrible. You should let your car warm up for a minute or two if you jump on the freeway less than a block from your house.
Otherwise, save the fuel and the motor by starting it up and driving as soon as it will get out of the driveway without stalling.
Flunky
PS-I agree with BamBam, get a battery with more CCA. I took the huge one out of my 68 Oldsmobile and put in my Civic, and it spins like mad, even when it's cold!

Ive gone to school for automotive for 2 years and not once have i ever heard someone say drive your car as soon as you start it up, its better for it

. That sounds completely insane to me. Oil pressure is highest when its cold because its so damn thick.

2ndb18 · #11 12-20-2004, 08:49 PM

me neither. It just isnt logical.

bambam89lx · #12 12-21-2004, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4-Door Flunky

Your car will warm up faster if you drive it immediately. Letting it idle in the driveway is bad, if it has lots of miles, because that's when your oil pressure is lowest. Letting the car just sit there running at low rpm and low oil pressure is terrible if the engine is at all worn, say, over 120,000 miles.
On the other hand, revving the hell out of it when it is cold is also terrible. You should let your car warm up for a minute or two if you jump on the freeway less than a block from your house.
Otherwise, save the fuel and the motor by starting it up and driving as soon as it will get out of the driveway without stalling.
Flunky
PS-I agree with BamBam, get a battery with more CCA. I took the huge one out of my 68 Oldsmobile and put in my Civic, and it spins like mad, even when it's cold!

Get off the CRACK!!!

also, I'd never consider 120k old....especially on a honda motor! But you might, because you drive your car when the motor is cold...so by the time you hit 120k on it it's burnin' hella oil and runs like shiot. It's supposed to be at operating temperature. Cold half frozen oil does nothing for a motor....cept wear it down over time.

BTW, of course the motor will warm up faster if you are driving it. You know why? It's because the pistons are travelling at a higher speed, therefore increasing the temperature of the cylinders and therefore increasing the temperature of the coolant surrounding the cylinders.
The damage is done most in the first minute of driving a cold car from having cold rings and not proper lubrication. When the car is warmer, the rings expand and create a better seal in the cylinder. Also the cylinder is properly lubricated which prevents damaging the cylinder walls. When the motor is cold, the rings are slightly "contracted" and can allow oil to blow by. This is the reason that some car's may burn a small amount of oil when they are cold and driven when they are cold as opposed to when they have been properly warmed up.

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