95 lude or a 96..So confused

[Alan999]

Hello a newbee...here
I am planing on getting a prelude, proberbly a 96 prelude SR and would eventually do a swap to a H22a.
I have heard a lot of OBD2 and OBD1, But would like to know what it is. Is it somthing inside the ECU or is it a hardware in the car that can be removed and replaced?
and also would like to know if there was a big difference in insurance between a SR and vtec?
I Thank all in advance for your answeres and sugestions.

[whtteg]

I am assuming that the SR is the states SI?
The ODBI vs OBDII issue is not that big of a deal really. Do you plan on a turbo or supercharger being on your car? If not then I see nothing wrong with the OBDII car. Also is the H22A that much better than the H23A1? I only has 6 hp more right? So why swap?

[unknownluder69]

whoa whoa whoa hold on now the h23a has 160hp and the h22a VTEC has 190hp. thats a big difference. i would definetly swap if u want go n/a but if u plan on a turbo build up the internals on the h23. also if you dont want to do a complete engine swap u can always get the VTEC head and create a frankenstein.

[Alan999]

The car I am buying will be from Canada.
I guss I can only afford the insurance for a SR but want a Vtec. So thats why I am so keen in knowing that when I Swap a vtec motor I don't run into problems like the car detunes itself.
Correct me if I am wrong the H23a1 to H22a will increase ablout 35 HP.
I am not planin on turbo, I need vtec power with SR Insurance payments.lol.

[unknownluder69]

to solve that problem by the h23 motor and put the VTEC head on it and dont tell ur insurance company LOL! the only problem is if u get into a wreck u lose that head and get only ur stock motor back. and no I am pretty sure that u wont have any problems with this mod. and it should boost ur hp from 160-190.

[whtteg]

Yes yes it will bump the power up, I had the wrong numbers lol. I looked at the TQ. The H23 had 156 and the H22A had 163 lol. Now I can see a good reason for the swap.

[Alan999]

I am still confused as to What is OBD on Hondas, Is it a Hardware that can be changed replaced or some chip in the ECU.....Where is it found....Cmon prelude Gurus out there shed some light on this for me....

[Greenblurr93]

obd = on-board diagnostic, its the computer that monitors your engine and what its doin, im not completely sure on the differences but obd1 u can only pull CEL codes off of and obd2 monitors emissions as well and when u bring a car ith obd2 to get an inspection sticker they dont need to put it on the dyno, they can just plug a special comp. into it and get your emissions reading.

[Alan999]

Please forgive my dum question...
So lets say I have a 96 Prelude SR, drop in a year 2000 H22A Motor and change the ECU with a 95 VTEC prelude's will sove the problem with the car detuning itself. Please correct me if I am wrong.....

[SBallerk2]

I'm not sure...But, yeah I would think it would..

[ludeguy]

Originally Posted by Alan999

Please forgive my dum question...
So lets say I have a 96 Prelude SR, drop in a year 2000 H22A Motor and change the ECU with a 95 VTEC prelude's will sove the problem with the car detuning itself. Please correct me if I am wrong.....

hey there are no dumb questions ! (just unresearched ones)

here's some info on obd1 and 2


from www.frogenginecontrols.com i paste this.
-------------------------------------------------------------
History and Technical information about OBD

OBD was first introduced to the North American market in 1992. The first version is commonly
referred to OBD1. This configuration lasted through the end of the 1995 model year. Fuel injection
became commonplace in Civics starting in 1988, though the Si versions of the CRX and Civic had
fuel injection as early as 1985, and was introduced in the Integra with the launch of the 1986
Acura line. Before 1992, there was little if nothing in the way of on board diagnostics in the ECU.
The 1988 to 1991 is commonly referred to as pre-OBD or OBD0 (the 0 meaning no OBD).

Starting in 1996, OBD made some big advancements and was now referred to as OBD2. It now
became apparent that emissions had to be cut, and maintained at reduced levels for extended
mileages or periods of time. The ECU now monitored the crankshaft speed to see if fluctuations
occurred that would point to lean mixtures or a failing ignition system. It also monitored the
efficiency of the catalytic converter via a second oxygen sensor mounted downstream of the cat.
This meant that those of us that wanted to run a test pipe to eliminate the restriction associated
with the catalytic converter were faced with check engine lights as the ECU would detect lost
efficiencies due to the lack of the cat, or O2 sensor failures from the removal of the sensor.
Several products hit the market that were intended to simulate an O2 sensor and fool the ECU
into thinking that the cat was still operating efficiently. Its a little known fact that the check engine
light for the 2nd O2 sensor, or for the missing cat will not lead to the ECU operating in "limp
home" mode. It just simply leaves a glowing light on the dash to annoy you. OBD2 also added a
pressure monitor in the gas tank to insure that the pressures were building normally inside the
tank to indicate a properly closed gas cap and normally functioning evaporative emissions control
system. In 1999/2000, the connections on OBD2 ECUs were moved around, making them
completely incompatible with the 1996-1998/1999 chassis and ECUs.

Though the ECUs from the JDM 1996 and up cars appear identical to their North American
counterparts, they are very much the same as the USDM OBD1 ECUs in their operation, lacking
the crank speed fluctuation and fuel tank pressure sensors, as well as the 2nd O2 sensor from
the USDM OBD2 cars. This makes them ideal for those wanting to run the JDM ECU that was
supplied with their 1996 and up JDM engine swap in their 1988-95 car. For those of you ambitious
enough to try and use the North American OBD2 ECU from your 1996 and up USDM swap, look
forward to lots of extra work incorporating the fuel tank pressure sensor, as well as the extra O2
sensor or one of the many O2 sensor simulators on the market.

One thing to keep in mind anytime you are swapping an engine from a different generation of
engine management into your car is to stay with your existing engine wiring harness. It is always
100 times easier to make the necessary mods to the engine harness that came with your chassis,
then it is to make mods to the chassis harness to match the engine harness.

---------------------------------------------
that's from a post earlier that i made at http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=323635

if you follow that post - you should clearly begin to see why a 95 is a slightly better choice than a 96 - atleast as far as engine swaps are concerned. 92 - 95 are obd1, they basically have less sensors - and will more than likely get you in less trouble emissions wise. if you get a 96 and then have to chase down a rather rare ecu for the vtec engine it's going to be a bit of a nightmare, as far as i've heard you might also have problems with some exhaust or header systems because of the secondary 02 sensor required (someone correct me if i'm wrong).

I would not plan on dropping in a year 2000 h22a4, I think you'll have some issues out the yinger. It has been done (of course) but I don't believe it is as easy as putting in a straight jdm h22a, as the ecu for the a4 has an immobilizer.

the only real benefit i can see to obd2 is that people are making software for it now that with a simple harness you can get a bunch of data like oil press/temp fuel press etc displayed in real time as you drive around...

so my vote is 95 lude/jdm h22a/p13 (: but it's an opinion of course.

[AcesHigh]

The H22A4 block itself is identical to the JDM H22A (well, except for being open deck...). Anyways, it does still just drop right into a fourth gen and all the wiring should still be plug and play. You just use the OBDI ecu without connecting the manifold sensor.

[ludeguy]

Originally Posted by AcesHigh

The H22A4 block itself is identical to the JDM H22A (well, except for being open deck...). Anyways, it does still just drop right into a fourth gen and all the wiring should still be plug and play. You just use the OBDI ecu without connecting the manifold sensor.

yeah i wasn't sure of that, I really thought it would be a bit more complicated and that's why I was advising him otherwise - It's good to know it would work with the obd1, thanks for the info (:

[AcesHigh]

Hey, its cool man. Thanks for the info on ECU's too, I'm sure its gonna help alot of people in the future.

[jwd3jdm]

I would never buy a 2000 h22a4. They put down about 155-165 to the wheels where as a jdm rated at the same 200 crank hp puts down 165-175. Also because it is obd2. You will pay a shitload for the motor, tranny, ecu, etc. And THEN, you will have to go buy an obd2 to 1 connector which is just a little MORE money down the drain. All to come up 10 WHP short of a much cheaper, much easier to work with, more powerful, obd1 jdm h22a. Just my own opinion but If its possible to spend less money and get more power I would always do it. The only obd2 prelude motor I would mess with would be the h22a8 (type s - 180-185 to the wheels bone stock) horsepower per dollar is what you really need to look at when you're thinking about a swap.