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#1
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Hi everyone, i have a few questions for anyone that can help. First of all, ii replaced the brake pads on my 86 audi 5000 and i cannot get the yellow light that alerts you to brake pad wear to go off. second , i have a little wobble in my front left wheel at certain highway speeds, and it makes a grinding/squeaking noise. not constant on the entire rotation of the wheel, but rather through about 40-60 percent of the wheel rotation. it is worsend at low speeds and during right hand turns. it feels like a slight "clunk" during a turn as if a spring or something is popping. If anyone has any information about these two issues or can help me further, please post or email. I have the chilton manual and the AUDI dealership shop manual for this car. Oh and 2 more little things, i replaced the thermostat because the car wasnt heating up according to the temp guage and the car was not blowing hot air in the winter. it now blows hot air properly, but the temp guage doesnt move. It has move during the summer when caught in traffic and has moved to about 60-75 percent of the guage, but then when i started moving again it would go all the way back down until i stopped again. if i was stopped for a long time, i would hear the under hood fan kick in and the guage would increase. And my speedometer works, but not the odometer, and my tachometer is VErY intermittent when it decides to work. Thats all sorry for so much, but if anyone can help with anyof these things please post or email or both !!!
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!! |
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#2
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Stinks,
A litany, you got. The "squeak-clunk" and wheel wobble sound to me like a CV joint, and the "on right hand turns", sounds like the passenger side. I had the same a couple weeks ago, but mine was the left CV, and showed up in left hand turns, especially backing out of the drive, hard crank to the left, clunk-clunk, click-click, and a really bad wobble, threw the whole front of the car left and right, just like a loose wheel. Good news is, reman CV shafts at Advance Auto Parts are 50 bucks each, at least for the 100, and my mech was reasonable for installation. While you were doing the brakes, did you look to see if you had a broken boot on the CV joints? If one has been broken for a while, you will get crap in there, and lose grease, and surely get galling and sticking, and, eventually, bust a cage, lose the balls, have to get a tow and replacement. Check to see if the wires from the brakepad sensors are whole. If they are broken, you WILL get the light, as they detect an open circuit, not a closed circuit, as grounding a wire. When the radiator fan "kicks in", it should start the guage coming down, not up. You should not be showing 60 to 75 % of travel on the guage in traffic stalls, even running the AC, it should run continuously, if necessary, to keep the engine relatively cool. Tach being intermittent, if you have flywheel sensors, either the sensors or the connections to the ECU. Odometer, here I am going back to my 80 and 81 Audi diesels, the worm on the drive cracks, a nylon, I think, piece, when the odometer comes to a .9, and has to turn 2 wheels, it slips on the shaft and stalls. Or maybe 3 wheels, like 19.9 miles, too much resistance,so it slips on the shaft. Hope this helps. Cheers, George |
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#3
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Re: Few things, brake pad light,grind noise in wheel
the light won't go off because the sensor wires don't have continuity. If you're like me you bought the cheaper replacement pads. What you need to do is look inside your front tires (or remove them) find wire that goes to the correct pads. Once you've done that, all you need to do is complete the circuit. (butt splice them togehter and then use electrical tape to seal it. I'd recommend zip-tying the wires someplace out of the way afterward.
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