Does anyone know proper way to bleed brakes on P11 and proper break-in on new pads??

[ty423]

well I thought I read the procedure right and did my pads. I broke them in by driving at low speeds..around 35mph..and slowing down pressing brakes lightly....I did this cycle about 7-8 times. well its been couple weeks and now my brakes make a grinding noise and squealing noise. I can also feel it in the brake pedal....This only happens after the pads have warmed up and at low speeds approaching to stop at a light or sign or something. What can this be? I also bled the brakes from furthest from MC starting.

[P11GT]

firstly, did you just change the pads and not the discs??

[P11GT]

if youre using old discs, did you remove the lip from around the edges of the disc? this can create the grinding noise.

the best way i found to bed in brakes, was to apply a tiny bit of copper grease, same stuff you lubricate the back with, to the surface of the pad. You may think this is unwise, but if you then go for a drive, drive at around 30-50 mph, break sharp, full power and then repeat as much as you can, the grease will help burn them in. Also i normally drive along a carrage way while left foot braking, basically, keeping the brakes on. It will smell for a bit but thats whats supposd to happen. This all should only take 10 - 15 mins to do. Youll probably notice that it doesnt feel very good, but let the car rest, overnight if possible, so the barkes cool right down and youll find that the brakes are solid the next morning.

bleeding brakes is easier with a bleed kit available from most auto shops. If you dont want to use one of them, then its a two man job. The car idealy needs to be up in the air. Locate the bleed nipple. Remove cover on brake resevoir. One person loosen the nipple, the other one press hard down on the brakes to release fluid into an empty container, then retighten nipple before you let up on the pedal. So, OPEN NIPPLE, PRESS DOWN PEDAL, TIGHTEN NIPPLE, RELEASE PEDAL. Occasionally, check the fluid level, dont let it drop too low. Repeat for the other sides. What youre ineffect doing is bleeding out all the old brake fluid along with any air bubbles, new fluid respondes better aswell.

sorry if it dont make too much sense, im rushin this.

[T4 Primera]

The ABS braking system in the G20/Primera is arranged in 2 diagonal circuits as opposed to the 2 front/rear circuits of old. This means that the old general rule of thumb of bleeding from the farthest to nearest caliper is not applicable.

The correct bleeding sequences are:

For RHD models;
LR
RF
RR
LF

For LHD models;
RR
LF
LR
RF

If you have ABS then you need to disconnect the battery negative terminal before carrying out bleeding. This puts the ABS into "fail to normal braking" mode so that the circuit is all open for bleeding.

Information taken from Haynes manual #1851.

P.S. In case you didn't, you shoulda got your disks skimmed as well.

[ty423]

Thanks for the response guys. I did turn/churn the rotors...they looked so good and like new after I did that. Well I read about ABS being different but I tried the old fashion way anyways...ok now I guess I have to redo everything and do it the right way.

P11GT...you are talking about power bleeding right? I thought about this and read alittle on it. It seems to be that people do this type of bleeding so there won't be any chance of air bubbles re-entering when the brakes are released. Well I will give it a shot.

[P11GT]

ive never heard the term 'power bleeding' but this is the best way ive found, this way im running on fresh brake fluid, and getting the best responce from the brakes.