1995 Mercury Villager...{need Help Please}

[HRUIZ617]

Hi,
The Problem I'm Having With My 95' Villager Is 2 Things The

1st: Is When I First Start My Car In The Mornings I Have To Crank It About 5 Times Before It Starts, Seems Like If The Gas Is Not Getting Up In Time But I Do Hear The Fuel Pump And I Also Replaced The Fuel Filter...do You Think I Need To Replace The Fuel Pressure Regulator?...i Do Need Help With This Problem...


2nd: Is That When My Car Fully Warms Up It Starts Stuttering, Stalling, Spitting And Choking And Looses Power, When This Happens I Step On The Gas All The Way Down And The Car Has No Power/torque What So Ever. It Seems Like If Either It's Not Getting Enough Gas Or Like If It's Gasping For Air... My Van Has Only 98,000 Miles On It, I Did Change The Plugs, Air Filter, Pcv Valve And I Also Used A Throttle Boddy Cleaner And Still Nothing...can Someone Help Me Figure Out What Exactly Is Going On Here...

[ils1970]

I'm going through the same thing with my 95, though not as severe. Whem I'm stopped at a red light it sometimes starts to stutter a bit. Anyone out here have an suggestions.

[dzus]

Fuel regulators on these vans are very simple and rarely go bad. If they do go bad the diaphram leaks and fuel gets into the vacuum line. pull vacuum line and check for fuel. Turn ignition on (don't start engine) listen for fuel pump running,when pump stops then start engine. If van starts better doing this than the fuel pump is weak and probably going bad.
For other problems: check your dist.cap,rotor and plug wires for good condition. Make sure the plugs are what the manufacturer recommends. Spraying cleaner in intake won't cut it. Remove throttle body boot and with cleaner and a cloth clean inside throttle body and backside of butterfly valve. Check rubber hose between egr valve and egr transducer for cracks,holes etc...
It also sounds like your maf sensor maybe bad or dirty when the engine warms up causing lack of power etc....
Check it out.

[HRUIZ617]

Thanx... I Will Check Plugs, Rotor, Wires And Also Clean Throttle Body Boot And Have Maf Sensor Checked. Once Again Thanx For The Help...

[jackass#1]

wouldnt be a bad idea to check fuel pressure. im thinking bad pump is what you have. also make sure all vacuum lines are good shape. if possible put a peice of
cardboard under your injectors to make youre getting fuel on your 1st few attemps if it comes out wet youre getting some fuel.

[zmeng]

Hi HRU1Z617,

My Villager is having the same problem as you described now.

What problem did it turn out to be on your Villager ?

Thanks

ZM

[islandermike]

I am having the same problem as what you all have. However, not a single person came back or bothered to post whatever happened to their problems. This would have helped others who will have the scenario in the future. On my problem which is the stalling, I am leaning toward the MAF sensor because the reading I am getting out of the 2 sensors are 5 megaohm, seems too high for a resistance reading. It also barely change when the engine is fully warmed up.

[redvillager33]

Originally Posted by islandermike

I am having the same problem as what you all have. However, not a single person came back or bothered to post whatever happened to their problems. This would have helped others who will have the scenario in the future. On my problem which is the stalling, I am leaning toward the MAF sensor because the reading I am getting out of the 2 sensors are 5 megaohm, seems too high for a resistance reading. It also barely change when the engine is fully warmed up.

My 1994 Villager got to where I would have to turn the key and and off 5 or 6 times in the morning to get it started. Turning the key on primes the fuel system for a short time, then the fuel pump times out. When I would turn the key on and off the fuel pump would get enough gas up to the engine.

I solved by dropping the fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump. Ordered it through Advance Auto which looked identical to the Ford fuel pump, even had all of the wiring harness and clips to attach the harness to the fuel tank.

Good luck.

[hambone403]

i had this problem i replaced the maf it helped alot then replaced the o2 sensor and all is well

[eltigre]

When was the last time you changed the ignition parts??
If your going to change the plugs, then change the cap, rotor and ESPECIALLY the wires...........The wires have a tendency to arc when they get up in age (this is especially, for those of you that have a noticeable miss at a stop)......not only that it's just good maintenance.I know they can be expensive but those are the breaks...........
also what to look for is the TPS, and if the engine is running bad ONLY when WARM ; the O2 sensor.......However, the O2 sensor would trigger a CEL

As to the starting problem, you can go ahead and hook up a fuel pressure tester after the fuel filter and test the regulator and see what you have ....also test to see if there is vacuum to the regulator....sometimes if you remove the hose off the regulator itself and there is a small leak of fuel ,you know that the diaphragm is bad.......sometimes what happens is that you need to key ON the engine, wait a few secs and then try to start it

[eltigre]

Originally Posted by islandermike

I am having the same problem as what you all have. However, not a single person came back or bothered to post whatever happened to their problems. This would have helped others who will have the scenario in the future. On my problem which is the stalling, I am leaning toward the MAF sensor because the reading I am getting out of the 2 sensors are 5 megaohm, seems too high for a resistance reading. It also barely change when the engine is fully warmed up.

Are you sure you're checking the SIGNAL wire on the O2 sensors? The only O2 that actually counts is the front one or UPSTREAM one, when talking of engine performance>>>>the sensor is in CONSTANT different resistance values which will give you DIFFERENT Voltage values, it will fluctuate between 0.8 and 9.0V (I know that in some books it will say b/w 1.0 and 9.0V but trust me, that's what it is for the Villager)
What do you mean stalling? Stalling while you are driving? Stalling while trying to start? If its the MAF, which rarely goes bad (and VERY expensive), what you would get would be that you would have trouble going over like 2,000 RPM without it put,put,puting on you.....

[IH8SPM]

I would read this post it is the same problem.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=502818

[dingbat]

I have a 97 ford van and I discovered a real problem as the engine light comes on and the engine will faulter when accelerating and the cause is the carbon has built up on the gas return holes and the only way you can get to them to clean them is take the upper intake off and then you can scrape the carbon off of and out of the holes on the lower intake this will fix the probl;em of stuttering and missing at what I call the sweet spot on the gas pedal. I suggest that you use a vacuum on the holes as you clean them to get the carbon up before it goes in to the return hole it could cause the heat to be excessive on the top of the pistons and may burn a hole in it. normaly number 6 is the one that misses as it is the only one that dose not carbon up and all the excess gas goes to number 6 and causes a misfire code. so before you take the upper intake off I recommend that you have it scanned and if it scans a code of misfire on number 6 cylinder then take it off and clean it .

[dingbat]

I have a 97 ford van and I discovered a real problem as the engine light comes on and the engine will faulter when accelerating and the cause is the carbon has built up on the gas return holes and the only way you can get to them to clean them is take the upper intake off and then you can scrape the carbon off of and out of the holes on the lower intake this will fix the probl;em of stuttering and missing at what I call the sweet spot on the gas pedal. I suggest that you use a vacuum on the holes as you clean them to get the carbon up before it goes in to the return hole it could cause the heat to be excessive on the top of the pistons and may burn a hole in it. normaly number 6 is the one that misses as it is the only one that dose not carbon up and all the excess gas goes to number 6 and causes a misfire code. so before you take the upper intake off I recommend that you have it scanned and if it scans a code of misfire on number 6 cylinder then take it off and clean it .

[IH8SPM]

Directly from the boys at motorcraft.


Idle Air Control (IAC) Solenoid
The idle air control (IAC) solenoid (Figure 3) adjusts the amount of air allowed into the engine at
idle condition and during rapid engine deceleration. This adjustment is done by means of an
adjustable duty cycle output by the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM increases the duty
cycle based on different inputs such as RPM, load and others. The IAC is aided in cold engine
conditions by a bypass air (BPA) valve, which is integrated into the IAC assembly. The BPA valve
uses a bimetallic strip that adjusts to allow for more air flow in cold engine conditions, letting the
engine warm up faster and allowing smoother running engine operation.