Brake rotor removal

[nogto]

New to the forum. Look forward to any help you can offer.

2001 Windstar
Was inspecting the front brakes last night due to persistent squeak, and wanted to remove the rotors to find out what the minimum thickness spec was since it's usually stamped in the inside surface. Anyway, couldn't figure out how to get them off. After removing the caliper and caliper mounting bracket, what else is there?

I did get a little persuasive with a rubber mallet thinking that there was possibly some rust buildup on the hub. No luck, and I ran out of time so had to put it all back together

Any advice???
BTW-The pads are getting down there so I'll have to replace them and have the rotors turned soon.

[DRW1000]

Are they the original; factory rotors?

On my 99 I had to remove three Torx head bolts that hold the rotors to the hub. (there are five recessed holes but only three bolts

[nogto]

I don't know for sure if they are original or aftermarket.... But I do know that there were a couple of those torx screws in between the wheel studs. Never would have imagined one would have to deal with those, especially up here in rust country (minnesota) where they most likely seize up or break off!

[lewisnc100]

Here's what my 2000 looks like:

http://groups.msn.com/FordWindstar/s...oto&PhotoID=37

[12Ounce]

I have a collection of fables and satire entitled "Ford Windstar Workshop Manual". You'd be amazed to read what it says reference the front brake rotors. I'll put it in my own words:

The rotors are not to be removed for "turning", but are to be machined, in place, mounted on the hubs (therefore the torx head screws). The manual shows the special equipment for this operation. Supposedly this is the "only way" to get a friction surface that is exactly at right angles to the hub centre-line.

Also, (now this part does make sense to me) anytime a rotor is to be removed, it should be marked to the hub so that it can be remounted...oriented the same on the hub.

I find after-market rotors so cheap, I never turn rotors anymore.

[nogto]

I called our Brake specialty house here in town (all they do is brakes) and they said they could machine those rotors.

Thank you for all of the detailed info!

Wish me luck on removing the torx screws.

[DRW1000]

I think the Torx bolts will come out easily enough. Spray some WD40 and tap (lightly) the end of the screws with a punch to loosen any rust.

I think you might want to consider just replacing the rotors. Often after rotors are machined they are thin and will end up warping within 6 months or so and you will feel pulsations.

[Dngrsone]

soak the screws thoroughly with WD-40 or Naval Jelly, if you can find it, let it set for ten, fifteen minutes and bang with a hammer a couple times. Hopefully this will help loosen 'em up for you.

[road_rascal]

I dunno about you guys, but the cheapest rotors I would ever put on my '01 are Raybestos brand, and they're about $54 a piece. Motorcrafts are well over $100. I had the Raybestos ones machined once already, and they were well within spec. I sure wish I had my old Dodge when rotors were $19 a piece. Hey nogto, where are you in MN? I'm in Apple Valley, let me know if you need a hand in doing the brakes on your van. I've done them on my '01 twice already and my old '96 at least 3x.

[DRW1000]

Of course it is a preference.

I replaced my rotors with Wagner rotors and I paid about $110 Canadian per. I think it costs about $30 to machine rotors and of course the down time.

When rotors are machined of course they will still be within spec (or else a reputable shop will not do them) but they are thinner than they were. A rotor is a huge heat sink. Less material means less resistance to heat build up and my feeling is that they will end up warping prematurely. If (when) this happens the brakes will need to be redone and the rotors will then need to be replaced (because they probably will not be within the limit a 2nd time) and of course new pads (I wouldn't put old pads on a new rotor).

So I think it is a false economy to machine.

I also don't want to mess with my brakes.

It is of course only my opinion only.

[12Ounce]

I think the market place is going, over time, to settle the issue for us. In my neck of the woods and over the past couple of years many parts companies have ceased their rotor/drum turning service. That includes, NAPA, AutoZone, and Advanced. The last standing was PEP Boys... and they may have stopped by now.
I think I paid $45 each for my Windstar rotors at Advanced. They had rice all over them.

[Dngrsone]

I remember when I could get a drum or rotor turned for $8 down at the local machine shop...

It's a couple years between pad/shoe changes for me anyway, so it doesn't hurt me any to buy a new set of rotors and it gives me a chance to go over the CV's while they are exposed.

[road_rascal]

The only reason I had the rotors on my '01 resurfaced was because they were slightly warped after 30,000 miles of use. I would never machine the rotors if they were severely gouged. The brakes on these vans are very easy to work on.