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#1
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4X4 2 Door Tahoe
My 95 Tahoe is eating rear u-joints at the rate of about one per month. The factory u-joints lasted up to around 140K and the only reason I replaced them is because they began squeaking in reverse. I never experianced the clucking noise at take off until after about a month of replacing them the first time.
I'm now on my third aftermarket rear u-joint and it has began clunking also. I've tried u-joints with, and without, the grease fitting, and I've bought the heavy duty 4X4 u-joints from O'reillys. Should I try factory u-joints from the dealer? Or do I have a more seroius problem? Additionally, I've greased the driveshaft spline going into the transmission without any improvements. The truck is 100% stock, with no lifts or oversized tires, and rarey see's heavy off-road use. |
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#2
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Re: 4X4 2 Door Tahoe
The clunk may not be the u-joints and you may be replacing them needlessly. U-joints when they go almost always squeak and by no means should they be shot after only a month unless you are doing something horribly wrong when installing them. The clunk i suspect is something else , possibly the slip yolk clunk that i have seen many times in this forum. I think you may have wasted a fair amount of money replacing the u-joints when there was most likely not a thing wrong with them. I could be wrong but i have NEVER seen a u-joint need replacing in less than a month UNLESS like i said you are doing something real bad when installing them. All i ever used to use to remove/install u-joints was a hammer and i vice (not the best way but it worked) Also from what i have read the place that you should be greasing the slip yolk is on the outside, not on the splines
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**2007 Avalanche LT. ** ![]() 6" Pro Comp lift 305/55/20 BFG A/T KO'S K&N FIPK GENII Flo Pro V force muffler & 4" slash cut stainless tips Color matched front and rear Bowties 3" polished stainless bull bar and Nerf bars |
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#3
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Re: Re: 4X4 2 Door Tahoe
Quote:
Thanks for the response Kenny. I agree that it's not the u-joint, I'm just not sure what it is. Fortunately I'm doing the work myself, so that's keeping the expense down. I guess what's puzzeling me is that the klunking is non-existent right after completing the u-joint replacement. Taking off from a stop, it accelerates quietly and smoothly. It slowly becomes more and more evident, to the point where it becomes extremely distracting in a matter of weeks. Additionally, there is no vibration in the drivetrain. Exactly what is the "slip yoke"? Are you referring to the rear-end yoke? Should I be greasing the outside surface area of the u-joint where it connects to the rear-end? |
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#4
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The slip yolk is the front part of the drive shaft that slips into the trans, get a good heave duty sticky grease and grease the outside of the entire part that slips into the trans
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**2007 Avalanche LT. ** ![]() 6" Pro Comp lift 305/55/20 BFG A/T KO'S K&N FIPK GENII Flo Pro V force muffler & 4" slash cut stainless tips Color matched front and rear Bowties 3" polished stainless bull bar and Nerf bars |
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#5
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Re: 4X4 2 Door Tahoe
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