92 Dynasty Fuel Leak

[Xyloid]

Have fuel leaking from the top of the engine. when the fule pump kicks in, fuel starts to stream out of or by the hose on top of the engine, and gas pools up very quickly on top of the engine. Not sure if it is from the hose feeding the metal tube that goes to the injectors or what. Need to know what my best option is. would it be an easy fix for a novice or not. I don't have a lot of tools. And if it is going to cost me alot. I also would like some sort of guide to do this myself. What is the best option? (besides a new car.)

[pianoman466]

I am having the same problem. If you find the answer, please let me know. Thanks

[Xyloid]

Originally Posted by pianoman466

I am having the same problem. If you find the answer, please let me know. Thanks

I found that it was the fuel rail. It seemed to be 3 pieces that were swaged together, and after time they started to leak. The parts were 355 (including the seals and o-rings) from the dealership, and I found a place that installed it for me for 70. I'm fianlly back on the road. Nobody sales the fuel rail after market. I looked all over. Also, they didn't seeme to need to take off the intake manefold(spelling?), so that shouldn't be an issue. It will flex enough to get it in and setup. I hope this helped. It took me awhile, but it is finally finished and fixed.

[pianoman466]

Thanks for the reply. The top of the engine was covered in gas this morning. I am "hoping" to find the part at our parts house (to save money). It is 5 above zero here,. TOO cold to work on a car, so I guess i'll stay home for awhile, to avoid a car fire.

[pianoman466]

You were right, no after market on a fuel rail here eather. I dont have $350.00 to buy one, so I invested $4.19 in some JB Weld. Heres how,,,,Clean around the leak GOOD with circut cleaner, or eather. Put JB Weld around the leak in thin layers, overlaping the flange on the main fuel rail to be safe, smooth it out . I put 3 layers on, and the leak stopped. Both rails were leaking, and I found out thin layers are better than one big glob..( I had to redo the big glob) I let each layer set for an hour. I hope this will help someone else.

[Dreadlord]

My friend has a 90 Dynasty. It has leaks at the joint of the u-ish shaped pipe that joins the two rails together. At thes two joints the tube seems to be pressed into the rail. On his car these joints have become loose letting fuel leak out whent the system pressurizezs. A previous owner or mechanic pulled the joints tight reseating the flang on the end of the pipe and kept them in place with hose clamps. This worked for a while but now it is leaking again. We are going to dissmantel the rail and clean off all the gas. Making sure it is completely clean. We are going to attempt to solder these joints with a small torch i own. Hopefully this will seal the leak and repressurize the system. Will let you know how it worked. And tell you if we still hsve eyebrows.lol

[MR P BODY]

Originally Posted by pianoman466

You were right, no after market on a fuel rail here eather. I dont have $350.00 to buy one, so I invested $4.19 in some JB Weld. Heres how,,,,Clean around the leak GOOD with circut cleaner, or eather. Put JB Weld around the leak in thin layers, overlaping the flange on the main fuel rail to be safe, smooth it out . I put 3 layers on, and the leak stopped. Both rails were leaking, and I found out thin layers are better than one big glob..( I had to redo the big glob) I let each layer set for an hour. I hope this will help someone else.

Dont expect this fix to last, JB weld doesnt take shock and WILL start
to leak again, I'm sorry but I cant tell you an easy fix. There is silicone
thats fuel resistant and even that will leak after a period of time.
Believe me I know about this, I work in the fuel lab at Chrysler

[Dreadlord]

Here is how we fixed it and fixed it good. This was for the 1990 3.3 liter fuel injected model Dodge Dynasty.

Materials list. 1-roll of high heat lead free solder, 1- 1/4-18 pipe tap, 2- 90 degree bend 1/4 threaded pipe nipples, 1- tin of brush on plumbers flux, 1- blow torch, 1- 1 foot length of high pressure fule hose that will fit the nipples, 4- small hose clamps, 1- can of machine oil.

So here is what you do.

1- Remove the fuel rail assembly.

2- Remove the fuel injectors from the rail

3- clean as much gas out of the rail as possible.

4- Secure one side of fuel rail in a vise. Be sure not to crush it but make sure it is firmly held.

5- At the end of the rail where the u pipe joins you will see a groove that goes all the way around the rail to form a ring. Take a hack saw and cut through the rail right here. Repeat for other rail as well.

now the rail is liberated of that crappy u pipe

6- Using a solvent like B-12 carb cleaner make sure all the gass is washed out of the rail assembly. Then let it air dry untill all the gas and solvent residue has dried.

7- Usea a grinder, dremel too, sand paper or flat file to smooth and dress the ends of the rails.

8- Place rail back into vise. using a socket wrench and a 13mm socket use the tap to cut threads into the pipe. As soon as you get a good bite with the tap place a few drops of machine oil on to the tap. this helps the cut go easier. Cut as far in as you can go with the tap.

9- repeat for second rail.

10- bolt rails back onto the engine without the injectors. We do this to ensure proper alignment of the 90 degree pipe niples. Apply a liberal amount of the pipe flux to the pipe nippls threads, the end of the rails, and the treads in the rails. Now screw in the pipe nipples get them as tight as possibe but make sure the two ends face eachother. Do not worry if you have to back one off a little to get the ends to line up we are going to solder seal these joints.

11- Re-remove the rails from the engine. DO NOT TRY TO SOLDER THE RAILS WHILE ON ENGINE!!!! Place rail pipe nipple end up in the vise again. using a blow toch apply heat to the fluxed joint untill the solder flows smoothly and evenly onto the joint. This can take a lot of heat and you may have to reflux the joint untill it is hot enough to take the solder. The joit does not have to be pretty just functional. let cool untill safe to touch.

12- repeat soldering steps for other rail.

13- clean flux residue off of rails with copper brush and B-12 solvent and let dry.

14- Reassemble injectors onto rails and bolt rails back onto engine. Replace all other engine components that were removed to take rails off.

15- Look a the gap between the two nipples and cut a length of high pressure hose that will bridge the distance between the two and cover the ends of the nipples completely. You will want to leave about an inch to an inch and a half of slack in the hose to accomidate engine expansion due to heat.

16- Slip the 4 hose clamps on the hose then apply the hose to the ends of the nipples make sure you work the ends on as far as they will go. plack two clamps on each end of the hose and tighten them down very tight.

Your fule rail assembly is now repaired and as good as if not better than new.

Make sure to inspect this hose at least once a year, as you would for the rest of your fuel system, for wear and tear. This will keep an old and woren hose from bursting on you.

If you feel you are uncapable of doing this repair your self I suggest having a mechanic or a mechanicaly inclined freind help you with it. Or you may contact me and we can discuss you shipping me your rail so I may repair it and send it back. All shiping costs to and from are paid by the customer. Price will be discussed in private.

[email protected]

Good luck

Dreadlord