04 Silverado Bose Stereo Replacement

Newf · #1 11-27-2004, 02:27 AM

Hey Guys, first thread, new member.

I have read the previous threads on "possible" problems with removing the factory bose stereo from the truck. I agree that if all that goes wrong is losing the door chime, it's not a problem, but I'm not convinced that this could be the only downfall.

I have a 2004 Crew Z-71 LS with the 6 disk 6 speaker Bose Stereo. I expected alot more from this $1200 option. The truck is a month old, but I have a kick ass stereo sitting on the bench in the garage from my previous truck. In addition to the whole issue of removing the deck, I've been told there is an issue with adding my subs to the factory deck because it already has a sub and amplifier in the center console (you'd never say) and the amplifier actually powers the speakers so it can't be removed as well.

In short I was told by two seperate audio installers it is a very difficult install and would cost 4-5 hours labour, 150-250 for parts and because Bose uses 2 ohm speakers, I'd have to buy new speakers to match the 4 ohm amp I have.

I trust that these guys know their stuff, and are not making money from the sale of these extra parts, one said I'd have to get them somewhere else anyway because they didn't carry it.

I'd like to hear from anyone that has sucessfully installed aftermarket in the same truck, my truck has the steering wheel controls and the information center below the gauges.

Thanks for any info.

Perry
Calgary, AB

acbaer · #2 11-29-2004, 12:20 AM

Unfortuanly, I can't be a ton of help. But I do know that the Bose systems do run at 2 ohms and your standard car audio aftermarket amp runs at 4 ohms. It has always been my understanding that the bose speakers/amps would need to come out and a new amp/speakers running at 4 ohms would need to go in. I understand there is an adapter that runs $50-$100 to keep your Steering Wheel controls. I don't believe the dash computer affects the stereo in any way.

Good Luck, I hope others can add more insight.

Adam

PS. Nice truck!

jeverett · #3 11-29-2004, 08:06 AM

I just installed 2 subs in a Bose factory system. If you need the wires I splliced into to get the RCA signal, I can go back and look. As far as the steering wheel controls, Pacific Audio Company makes a harness that lets you keep these controls, supposedly, I haven't tried one yet. Messing with these systems is a pain in the rear b/c of the extensive wiring and weird speaker ohm's.

Newf · #4 11-30-2004, 11:03 PM

Hey thanks for the info guys, I actually wouldn't mind having the wiring info you offered Jayson, just in case I run into trouble. One question, when you hooked up the subs, did you leave the factory sub hooked up? The amplifier under the console runs the front and rear speakers right? So I guess that would have to stay on-line anyway.

Thanks
Perry

jeverett · #5 12-01-2004, 08:18 AM

Yeah, I did leave the factory sub hooked up. I took the console apart THINKING that I could trace the wires to unhook it. Well, wrong. There's so many frickin' wires that go to that amp its unreal. The reason its so hard to get a good signal for the RCA converter is because of that factory amp. It took me about 4 hours just to find some wires that worked properly. My partner wrote the wiring we did down, but he's in Atlanta on business right now, so it might take a little bit for me to get it.

99DenaliMan · #6 12-18-2004, 02:41 AM

This thread looks dead. I'd like to revise it, as this is some thing I'm interested as well. I have a 99 Denali by the way. Bose stereo system. The only schumatic that GMC could find was the print off going from the amp to the speakers. A pretty simple hook up. I do understand that the speakers are 2 ohm and the amp is running at 2 ohms. I would be interested as well where you cut to get the rca signal. How did you convert from the speaker wire to the rca signal? Is it a clear signal, or is there a lot of interference?
To answer the previous question. If you where wanting to upgrade your stereo I beleive this would be a very simple solution? Please somebody correct me if I'm wrong. But therotically and I emphacize therotically you could do one of two things. Run all new wiring (not recommended, and not a simple fix). Or even simplier, buy an adapter from the install bay of BestBuy (NOTE: they have different harnesses in the install bay, than in the stereo dept. of the store.) simply pull the old deck, install the new harness to the new deck (VERY SIMPLY.) ALMOST AS EASY AS clicking the harness in place, run rcas cables-PreAmp outputs on the new deck, 4 or 8 GA. power wire, run a igntion wire to the trunk and that's for the sub, simply use the old amp for the old sub and speakers and upgrade the speakers to a 2 ohm speaker? Like MB QUART--MAKES AN OUTSTANDING (BUT VERY PRICEY) 2 OHM SPEAKER. and all your problems would be fixed??? Sounds easy enough??? anyone?? Now if anyone just knew about that splicing before the amp and running to a subwoofer amp?????????????I want to keep if looking stock.

03-Silverado · #7 12-18-2004, 11:39 PM

I think that you should definately upgrade your BOSE system... I just put in a true Navigation system, with competition speakers, tweeters, subwoofers... etc. Here is an excerpt from my other thread...

Eclipse Navigation System...
AM / FM / CD / MP3 / DVD / GPS Navigation / TV Tuner

Rear Color Camera Mounted Next To My License Plate
( Comes on automatically when I shift into reverse )

6 1/2" MB Quart Component System For Both Of My Front Speakers
( Includes Mids And Tweeters, With Crossovers )

4 1/2" MB Quart Component System For Both Of My Rear Speakers
( Includes Mids And Tweeters, With Crossovers )

2 Kicker Solo Baric Subwoofers
( 12" Each Subwoofer, New 2004 Model )

2 EFX 600 Watt RMS Aplifiers
( 1,700 Watt Peak Power )

1 EFX 100 x 4 RMS Amplifier
( 250 Watt Peak Power )

Custom Molded Subwoofer Enclosure
( Under Rear Seat, Permanetly Mounted To The Floor )

2 Optima Yellow Top Batteries Under The Hood

1 Battery Isolator
( Prevents The Main Battery From Being Completely Drained )

Remote Engine Start Viper Alarm System
( Pager System Notifies Me If Alarm Goes Off Up To 4 Miles Away )

Motion Sensor For Viper Remote Start Alarm System
( If you look into the windows, the alarm will chirp, if you stick you hand inside the truck the siren will go off )

Dual Series 40 Flowmaster Exhaust Going Out The Rear

Here are some pics I took earlier today...

Before Navigation System...

After Navigation Installed...

Viewing The TV Tuner With No TV Reception...

Another Navigation Screen...

Dual Flowmaster Exhaust Out The Rear...

Another Angle...

Rear MB Quart Component System...

Viper Alarm System...

Old Head Unit...

Kicker Solo Baric Subwoofers...

Dual Battery Setup In Engine...

Another Picture Of My Custom Box...

My HyperTech Programmer...

TV Tuner Spearkers...

99DenaliMan · #8 12-19-2004, 04:48 PM

Hey thanks, Hijacker. But if I had $6000 to drop on a stereo I think I would find a little something better to do with my time than ask about slicing wires to run RCAS. and (rigging) my whole stereo system. Nice stereo though.

Newf · #9 12-19-2004, 08:59 PM

Hey, nice stereo 03, but yeah, if I had the cash for that sort of gear, I'd just pull everything out and start from scratch for sure.

The thing is I do have a nice JVC deck with amp and subs, just a few months old. I bought it for another truck but sold it and leased this new one. The problem is (as far as I know), you can't just unhook the factory deck, it will cause some "problems", now I've been told this is bullsh*t and I've been told by installers that its true. I can live with the factory deck, but I need those subs back.

The truck is 2 months old and I'd rather not hack it up yet. This is why I'd like to hear from someone who has first hand experience of:
a. removing the factory deck and/or
b. adding subs and amp to the factory system.

I was told from a couple of installers that the factory stereo has to stay hooked up in the truck, you can buy an adapter that will allow you to move the deck under the dash and hook up an aftermarket deck as well. Then from there I guess you can run the amp & subs without any issues from the aftermarket deck, but I assume the factory sub and amp will be dead.

Either way this would be time consuming and therefore expensive to have a installer do the work. Any ideas...

99DenaliMan · #10 12-21-2004, 06:14 PM

Bump--any adive on where to slice the wire before the amp to run a rca adaptor and rcas to a sub?

ponchonutty · #11 12-21-2004, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 99DenaliMan

Bump--any adive on where to slice the wire before the amp to run a rca adaptor and rcas to a sub?

Right behind the radio. Also yo can find the 12v+ switched output from the radio to be used as an amp turn on.

99DenaliMan · #12 12-22-2004, 04:20 AM

Ok Now this much I have figured. 4 GA W/ fuse to battery, ASSUMING blue wire from deck for ignition (will double check with multimeter before install), However what about the sound? Is it just speaker wire I need to slice and run an apaptor into RCAS?

ponchonutty · #13 12-22-2004, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 99DenaliMan

Ok Now this much I have figured. 4 GA W/ fuse to battery, ASSUMING blue wire from deck for ignition (will double check with multimeter before install), However what about the sound? Is it just speaker wire I need to slice and run an apaptor into RCAS?

Yeah sort of. You do need the speaker wires but need to patch into those using a line-level converter. It changes the high output speaker to low-level RCA. You can't just graft RCA cables directly into the speaker wires.

99DenaliMan · #14 12-23-2004, 03:42 AM

quote:
You can't just graft RCA cables directly into the speaker wires.:-) lol.
Thank you for the response. I'm assumming you've done this before. So just one more question. I am assumming there are just 4 sets of speaker wire going from the deck to the amp and from there the subwoofer is probably bridged off of 2 channels down to 2 or 1 ohm(s). Assuming there are only 4 sets of wires (4 channels). Which speaker should I cut and run the adaptor too? Should I run from Right rear Negative and Left Rear Positive? ETC. Will this take any wattage from my speakers? will they distort because of the lack of ampreage going to the amp? Thank you in advance for any response.

jeverett · #15 12-25-2004, 07:28 AM

This thread has confused me already...But anyhow. I spliced the RCA converter to I believe a pink wire and green wire behind the radio. I still cant put my hands on that stupid drawing I made. The guy I did this for is SUPER picky, but he actually liked the way it sounded. No motor noise, or electrical interference.

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