Hard time finding slow electrical drain...I need advice

cheap5.0 · #1 11-21-2004, 10:49 PM

I have been having a hell of a time tracking down an electrical drain in my 1989 GT (5sp). It has no aftermarket sterio (although it did but whoever wired it was a hack). I thought i found the problem once, it was the light in the hatch area, it was't turning off so i removed the light and everything was good. It sat for about 2 weeks and started fine everytime i fired it up. Then i went out the next time (about 2 days later) and my battery was completly dead. So now i was thinking bad alt. so i removed the battery after jumping it and it ran fine ( i drove it about a mile). I have removed all the fuses from the interior fuse panel, but it is still drainging somewhere. I know that there is not a easy way for someone to tell what i need to look at, or what i need to fix so what i am looking for is a better method or a better testing process for finding this(or these) drains. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

StangNut86 · #2 11-21-2004, 10:54 PM

take the battery to murray's/autozone/pepboys/aap and ask them to test it. usually they do it for free. if the battery is bad buy an optima, last battery you'll ever buy.

cheap5.0 · #3 11-21-2004, 11:06 PM

Sorry i forgot to mention this is the third (3rd!!!) battery i have put in it because i have forgot to disconect the cables when i am done driving it. I am about to haul it in to a local garage that i trust will be able to fix it, but at what cost! you know what i mean?

FabricGATOR · #4 11-25-2004, 12:38 PM

1st determine the amount of drain. With a multimeter disconnect one side of the battery and connect multimeter to read amperage. Without a multimeter (primitive) touch the dissconnected lead (tap) and gauge the spark. Better at night or in dark. (power and ignition off, door closed, lights off, hood light disabled, etc)

Then pull all the fuses and try again. With all the fuses pulled and testing the battery draw again..... if still getting draw, then you've determined that its not in the secondary circuit. (a possible short in the base wiring before the fuse box)
.......If no draw then systematically install a fuse and test. Continue one at a time until you determine the circuit that your problem exists. Refer to the owners manual to see what accessories are on that circuit, then test all components until you find your demon.

Hope this helps!

cheap5.0 · #5 11-26-2004, 12:14 PM

Hey thanks man, i was kinda fuzzy on the procedure for checking this. Thanks for clearing that up. I have done this before and it fixed it (i was using a multimeter) then about 3 weeks later another drain popped up and killed that baterry. This time it was not draining from the secondary circuit, so i need some help with locating the drain in the engine bay now. Where do i start? What is the procedure this time?

dampachi · #6 11-27-2004, 05:48 PM

Five bucks says its the belt tensioner.

cheap5.0 · #7 11-29-2004, 06:02 PM

I have never heard of a over/under tensioned belt causing charging problems? Thanks for the idea.

Monte_SS · #8 11-29-2004, 09:59 PM

solinoid??? Mabey???

dampachi · #9 11-30-2004, 07:47 PM

It can kill brand new batteries.

cheap5.0 · #10 11-30-2004, 08:45 PM

I don't know if this helps to narrow it down but i just killed another battery. The car was never started or run, i had it in there for testing purposes and forgot to remove it. I guess that would eliminate the belt tensioner. I just found a bunch of receits for oil changes and shit inside the (formerly locked) glove box. I found a receipt dated 4/16/03 for a alternator and i found another for a starter but the half with the date is ripped off. Thanks for all the suggestions

dampachi · #11 11-30-2004, 09:29 PM

I'm definitely sticking by it being the belt tensioner. My uncle had this same exact problem. He killed 3 brand new batteries...bought a brand new alternator. blah blah. he was stumped. I told him. "it's the belt tensioner" and he would reply "no, it can't be..that has nothing to do with it." What was it? Belt tensioner. It's worth a shot!

Monte_SS · #12 12-05-2004, 07:14 PM

I do not think it could be the tensioner because there is no electrical connection. Start pulling fueses untill you get no more drain on the battery (using a meater).
I had a 76 Stang that had a bad Hood switch so the light under the hood would never go out,(or trunk) It was fine if i drove it every day but as soon as it sat for more then a day dead battery.
Just a thought.
Good luck!

PS any after market stereo or alarm in the car if so disconnect and see if that gets it.

Monte_SS · #13 12-05-2004, 07:20 PM

Sorry just had another thought.
What about the Egnition switch? If it is faulty would/could it leave the acc. circuit live??? Any thoughts???
Monte_SS
PS don't let the Monte SS thing get to you i have a 88 5.0 too.

cheap5.0 · #14 12-07-2004, 09:52 PM

The ignition is hot wired, coulld that be a possible cause? The car has a (really really) long story that goes with it, but needless to say it has no keys. I am buying lock cylinders somtime over the winter to fix that.

eillob · #15 12-07-2004, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheap5.0

The ignition is hot wired, coulld that be a possible cause? The car has a (really really) long story that goes with it, but needless to say it has no keys. I am buying lock cylinders somtime over the winter to fix that.

Hot wired? Im assuming this car was stolen. Did you have this problem prior to that (back when you had keys)? There are lots of connections in your ignition. Turning over the motor is just one of many functions. I would put repairing your ignition at the top of your list because that could easily be the problem. Sounds like something isnt getting shut off.

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