B18b/Vtec or B20/Vtec??

PdxJdm81 · #1 11-17-2004, 06:11 PM

I'm getting ready to have my blown stock D16y8 (auto) swapped out.... I'm already going to get my tranny swapped from auto to 5 speed (there's a chunk of change right there), and i'm not sure what motor to get. Keep in mind i AM in college and i only work part time. Now, i've been thinking about going LS/Vtec for a while now and have done extensive research on the motor and the swap. However, the shop that's going to do the work for me also sell B20 swaps for the same price. Now, my question is what should i do? Should i go LS/Vtec or CRV/Vtec?? I am wanting to go N/A with this car and I'd appreciate any input that anyone has to give me on this matter. I want a B18c1 but i just don't want to spend the GS-R price, you know? Plus i want to get something that not a lot of people have, and i want to have a commuter that i can race as well. I'm getting a good prices on all of these motors but the GS-R is still too much (especially with my 5 speed swap).... Help me decide!!

Peace

crxlvr · #2 11-18-2004, 03:26 PM

go with the crvtec swap becuase you will have the extra torque which our hondas need, then build from there, you can easily make the hp with simple bolt ons, its the torque thats a problem.

94tegRS · #3 11-21-2004, 11:14 PM

yeah if youre going NA id definately go with the extra displacement.

eckoman_pdx · #4 11-22-2004, 06:57 PM

Just out of curiousity man, which shop are you having do the work for you? Race Design? Ground Zero?

As for the CR-Vtec/LS-Vtec, if you are going N/A then the CR-Vtec night be up your alley, since it will have slightly more torque. If you are thinking of ever turboing it however, I'd go with the LS-Vtec. The B20 is essentailly a bored out B18B1 block.

Just remember to not go and rev the crap out of your motor. Remember, the head many be B16A2 but the Block is still B18B1 or B20, and is not ment for super high revs. One of the reaons you hear horror stories aobut LS/Vtec's beingunrealiable is that people swap on a Vtec head and go and rev the heck out of it. I wouldn't rev the motor past 7K (stock redline on an LS is around 6800). As I said, the Vtec head may be ment to handle a 7800 rpm redline but the B18B1 or B20 block is not.

PdxJdm81 · #5 11-22-2004, 08:38 PM

I'm having this shop called OPTION JDM in beaverton do it.... I've asked around about the cat who owns it and he seems legit and knows what he's talking about. I'm going LS/Vtec for sure, mainly because of the cost and the period of time that i will have to wait on the B20 to be re-sleeved etc.... do you have AIM or anything man? We might know the same people around here...

eckoman_pdx · #6 11-22-2004, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PdxJdm81

I'm having this shop called OPTION JDM in beaverton do it.... I've asked around about the cat who owns it and he seems legit and knows what he's talking about. I'm going LS/Vtec for sure, mainly because of the cost and the period of time that i will have to wait on the B20 to be re-sleeved etc.... do you have AIM or anything man? We might know the same people around here...

I have heard of them once ot twice, though don't know much. Some guys from there went to speed concept about 2 months ago or so to buy a Skunk2 camber kit Tony had in stock,....hahaha, I found that funny....I overheard them say it was for "Brad" with Option JDM. I don't know if they're or not legit though, never looked into it. Anyways, I sent you a pm.

94tegRS · #7 11-22-2004, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PdxJdm81

I'm having this shop called OPTION JDM in beaverton do it.... I've asked around about the cat who owns it and he seems legit and knows what he's talking about. I'm going LS/Vtec for sure, mainly because of the cost and the period of time that i will have to wait on the B20 to be re-sleeved etc.... do you have AIM or anything man? We might know the same people around here...

if you go B20 your gonna get it sleeved, B18 you are not? why is this?

eckoman_pdx · #8 11-23-2004, 03:47 PM

All I can think of is because the B20 has thinner cylinder walls, since it is essentially a bored out B18B1. Still, PdxJdm81, you said you are going naturally asperiated and not with forced induction, correct? Why are you re-sleeving if you are going n/a? Most people don't have a need to re-sleeve an n/a motor. If you do indeed re-sleeve, who are you hoping to send the block out to re-sleeve it?

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