I now have two seperate clicks coming form engine, one is really loud.. Please help!

[micministries]

I have a 1996 Isuzu Trooper with the 3.2 V6 24 Valve engine.

I have always had the typical click that everyone else seems to have. BUT... today my Trooper developed an additional click.... super loud. It is so loud that it is hard to tell where it is coming from... but it seems to be in the lower middle of the engine. I tried changing the oil using a synthetic and an additive that was supposed to stop clicking.... nothing has changed... I still have both clicks (the one I have always had... and the new super loud one).

As I place my hand on the top of the engine, I can actually feel the click radiating through the engine.

Any help... I would be so grateful!

Robert
[email protected]

[amigo-2k]

Sounds like the timing belt tensor is slapping around. THis is a common problem, and has been mistakinly diagonosed as rod knock before.

[2eyefishclaw]

yeah what he said

[sciallo]

I have the same problem with my 1998 Trooper (Just bought used) I sure hope that's the case because once worm, it sounds pretty major, like a bearing at the bottom of the engine!

Does this apply to '98 3.5 engines as well?

micministries: A little feedback would be nice... Was that it? Did it get fixed, blow up?

[david_warbler]

I had a bad knock in my 94 SOHC...I then ran Mobile 1 0W-30. The oil is thin enough to remove all the sludge from potentially sticking lifters. Try this and run for a couple thousand. If this doesn't work, I apologize, in advance, for wasting your $45.

[sciallo]

Originally Posted by david_warbler

I had a bad knock in my 94 SOHC...I then ran Mobile 1 0W-30. The oil is thin enough to remove all the sludge from potentially sticking lifters. Try this and run for a couple thousand. If this doesn't work, I apologize, in advance, for wasting your $45.

It was indeed a bearing. I already rebuilt the engine. Apparently #1 Crankshaft Journal/bearing failure is very common for this engine. the machine shop had 31 or some crazy amount like that in to machine when I sent mine.

As for running thin oil: it's all over the boards. DON'T! thin oil will burn easily and the deposit from burned oil will clog egt etc. causing the engine to keep burning oil even after you go back to thick oil.

Right after rebuilding, I used 5w20 it's been burning some oil since...
I gave up, we all need to get used to checking the damn oil level every time we get gas.

[PeteCal]

Same bearing was bad on my '98. One thing I noticed and helped confirm that is was a bearing was that the oil pressure kept getting lower and lower. I drove about 30 miles with the problem getting louder and watching the oil pressure go down. It was at about 1/4 scale when I got home.

The theory is, as the bearing wears, the clearance gets greater and the oil squirts out from between the bearing surfaces....back into the crankcase.

Hope this helps.

PeteCal

[sciallo]

Well, Quick question to everyone:
"what does your oil gage looks like at idle and at higher rpms?"

As I said I just rebuilt my engine, new pistons, bearings (matched to the machined crankshaft) and oil pump too. it's already consuming oil and the gage leaves me perplexed now and then:
< 1/4 idling <1/2 at higher rpm. I guess it gets a little higher when I first change the oil. (using Castrol GTX 20W50)

[PeteCal]

Originally Posted by sciallo

Well, Quick question to everyone:
"what does your oil gage looks like at idle and at higher rpms?"

As I said I just rebuilt my engine, new pistons, bearings (matched to the machined crankshaft) and oil pump too. it's already consuming oil and the gage leaves me perplexed now and then:
< 1/4 idling <1/2 at higher rpm. I guess it gets a little higher when I first change the oil. (using Castrol GTX 20W50)

Mine stays close to midrange. Midrange is labled 85 psi. At idle (in Park or Drive) it is about one needle width below 85. By that I mean the space from the needle to 85 is about the width of the needle.

When I accelerate, it goes up to just above 85 but not a "needle width" above. It seems to stay there until I come to a stop.

Just something I noticed. Many years ago, it used to ride a lot higher. In fact, there is a "gap" in the line on the gauge to the right of the midrange line. It used to go up there. Then I had the head gasket problem. After I got it back, it never went that high again. I don't know what caused it but it is within spec.

PeteCal