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#1
11-13-2004, 01:32 PM
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E-brake problem
Hey all. I had this problem last winter and now I'm having it again. It's getting down to the 30s at night so it's real cold in the morning. Well, my e-brake light on the dash (in red, says "BRAKE") is always on even if I didn't use the brake the night before (I'm an auto so I don't have to). The light stays on until 1. the car is fully warmed up or 2.doesn't go off at all, which is what happened today. But if I drive it again later in the day, when its warmer, the light doesn't even come on at start up.
Just wanted to know if anyone else had this problem and what you did to fix it. I'm puzzled by it. 
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#2
11-13-2004, 01:37 PM
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Re: E-brake problem
Check the fluid level, i know on some civics the e-brake light is the only light for brakes so if there is an error with anything on the brakes thats what lights up. Also you might want to check the button and see if it is sticking or shorting out.
__________________
 Here's to being single, seeing double, and sleeping triple
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#3
11-13-2004, 09:07 PM
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Re: E-brake problem
Its probably one of three things, your pads, your fluid, or your ebrake is loose.
__________________
1995 3000GT VR-4 Installed: ESP front precat eliminating downpipe, test pipe, RF-1008 K&N, Dejon tool Y pipe, 1G DSM BOV, MSD wires, Guted rear pre cat, ISSPRO EV Marine boost gauge, IPO MBC, EGR blockoffs, Palm m515 dataloger setup, NGK iridium plugs, SPEC stage II clutch 500ft/lb, 5300k HID plug and play setup. Soon:Topline Engineering ground wires.
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#5
11-13-2004, 10:52 PM
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Re: E-brake problem
On mine I just removed the center storage thing and its a few wires with a bolt thing that you twist by hand to tighten or loosen up the E brake. Its kinda hiden deep down between the SRS computer and the center console (the SRS computer is right below the storage thing and is very obvious).
__________________
1995 3000GT VR-4 Installed: ESP front precat eliminating downpipe, test pipe, RF-1008 K&N, Dejon tool Y pipe, 1G DSM BOV, MSD wires, Guted rear pre cat, ISSPRO EV Marine boost gauge, IPO MBC, EGR blockoffs, Palm m515 dataloger setup, NGK iridium plugs, SPEC stage II clutch 500ft/lb, 5300k HID plug and play setup. Soon:Topline Engineering ground wires.
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#6
11-14-2004, 12:13 PM
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an E brake doesnt have fluid..the reason of it is a back up for when you loose brake fluid in normal brake lines..so the e brake is mechanical..it has a steel cable..and you might not want to tighten it but infact loosen it.
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#7
11-14-2004, 01:55 PM
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Re: E-brake problem
I'm betting it is your pads are low, hence the pistons move farther out, therefore the fluid in the resevour lowers, and the sensor in there detects that it is low and gives you the light.
Check the fluid, top it off if need be, but definantly keep an eye on your pads as well...
__________________
96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.
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#8
11-14-2004, 07:58 PM
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Re: E-brake problem
3000star on some cars if there is something wrong with the brakes then the brake light lights up just as it would if the parking brake was on. Its how you know something is wrong with the brakes.
__________________
Here's to being single, seeing double, and sleeping triple
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#9
11-14-2004, 08:20 PM
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Re: E-brake problem
They wont stop your car.
Generally when something is wrong with your brakes they will make a noise, the light only tells you if the parking brake is on or if the fliud is low.
__________________
A few "bolt on" mods, a couple "cut, smash, hammer, weld, etc" mods, and a couple "why the hell do I need this/what the hell is this" weight reductions.
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#10
11-14-2004, 09:04 PM
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Re: E-brake problem
The fluid looks to be fine on mine but I still get the light unless the car is realy warmed up (and it has to feel like shuting it off to now lol), tightening the Ebrake seemed to help however counterintuitive it may sound.
__________________
1995 3000GT VR-4 Installed: ESP front precat eliminating downpipe, test pipe, RF-1008 K&N, Dejon tool Y pipe, 1G DSM BOV, MSD wires, Guted rear pre cat, ISSPRO EV Marine boost gauge, IPO MBC, EGR blockoffs, Palm m515 dataloger setup, NGK iridium plugs, SPEC stage II clutch 500ft/lb, 5300k HID plug and play setup. Soon:Topline Engineering ground wires.
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#11
11-28-2004, 02:00 AM
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Re: E-brake problem
Guys, it WAS the fluid. I checked it the other day and, sure enough, it was low. That's all it was. So to all those with the same problem of the brake light coming on when it's cold and staying on until it's warmed up, check your fluid! Thanks for the help!
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