Anyone had sucess with in line pumps?

[djlacavera]

Hi, I have a 97 GMC Sierra with the 5.7 liter engine.

Has anyone ever tried installing an after-market in line fuel pump on a vehicle similar to mine?

I was considering it as a means to cut cost, but I have no idea if it would work.

My thinking was to either disconnect the in tank pump all together, or leave it hooked up as a supply pump.

Would the in line pump be able to draw through the in tank pump?

If I leave the in tank pump hooked up, could it somehow over pressure the line or the in line pump, if so are there any after market regulators available to regulate the in tank pump between the tank and in line pump?

I know it sounds like I'm opening a can of worms, but I can't help but wonder if there is a more economical solution to this, than pulling off the bed, paying $500.00 for a pump, and risking damaging the lines etc., in the process.

Like so many post I have read, I am having very weird problems with the fuel pump.
It bleeds down overnight when its cold outside.
Then even after purging the line, it won't pump enough pressure till the pump warms up. Lately I've had to jumper the pump so it will run long enough to warm up before even trying to start the engine.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
If you think I'm nuts, feel free to say so!
Thanks, Nick

[chaqueno]

Our shop mechanics were tired of putting $800.00 fuel pumps in our service vehicle. From what I heard was that,they found a matching pump that produced the same pressure and installed that in the tank ( cost aprox. $40.00 ) There are always alternatives to every problem (or can of worms) But the real question is " is it worth my time and effort " For some of us who have the time, why not experiment. Look into some of the British or European cars, they usually had an inline pump as opposed to an In the tank.

[djlacavera]

Thanks for your responce.
I did find an aftermarket in tank pump for $60.00 that seems to work just fine.
After doing some more research and getting input from forum members, I decided that in tank replacement was still the best way to go, because there still has to be something in the tank to keep the line from bleeding down, or a good working supply pump.
It brought back memories of my days in the garage when we would get a carbureted vehicle in that had an on engine fuel pump replacement, and still was a no start. At that time we found many individuals wanted to make sure their line was clear so they blew compressed air into the line going to the tank, and did not realize thay were wiping out the check valve that keeps the line from bleeding down.
Also want to note that everyone on the forum who suggested that, removing the bed was the best way to change this pump, was correct.
The lines on this sender have a flared connection that would be impossible to get to with out the bed removed. I suppose if you have a lift, you may be able to drop the tank far enough to work with the lines, and or loosen the sender before dropping the tank, but looks alot rougher to me.
I actually was able to carefully lift the sender out without disturbing any of the lines, although it was a little tough to do without bending the internal lines on the sender.
I would also recommend if anyone is doing this in there back yard as I did, to get a hold of a strong compressor and impact wrench to take out the (8) bed bolts. Six of them have to be taken out with a swivel socket, and its hard to get enough torque without an impact gun.
I will also stress the importance of changing the fuel filter. Mine which I though had been changed not to long ago was all but clogged even tho the tank is clean inside, and is probably why the pump went bad.
Thanks again to everyone who replied with help on this issue!