94 Transport ....no fuel

[Hardrock6772]

Hey all,

Picked up a non-running '94 Transport last spring.
250,000 miles, 3.1 V6. Well cared for, and clean.
After doing a couple quick checks I determined it had a faulty fuel pump.
Dropped the tank, installed a new Delco pump, and it fired right up, ran and drove great.
I haven't driven it much all summer, except around home occasionally, and to move it around from time to time. (approx. 100 mi. or so)
Always started up with no problem.

Well, I let it set for over a month last time, and now it won't start.
Battery was dead, but a fresh one makes no difference.

Key "on", I hear the pump run approx. 2-3 sec. then stop. (normal)
Cranking, I have fire to the plugs, but no start.

I pulled the air cleaner, stuck the corner of a shop rag under one, then the other injector......cranked it over a minute, then again....No fuel to the injectors.
I checked the ECM fuse, it's OK, and I know I hear the new pump run, but is there something I'm missing?

BTW, it has about 1/2 tank of fuel in it, always started before, and I installed a new fuel filter when I put the pump in.

I haven't actually cracked the fuel line to see if it's delivering fuel to the throttle body, but it appears to have no power to the injectors.
I believe the ECM has to have tach (RPM) and crank position input to time the injection.
I checked (wiggled) the ECM plug, and the weather-pak connector at the distributor, but they look alright. No luck there.

Suggestions on how to test for power at injectors?
Ok to test for voltage with multi-meter? 5V, or 12V?
I don't want to use anything that will goof up the ECM, and I don't have a "noid light".

If there's NO voltage,.........where to go from there?


Thanks,
Mike

[LMP]

"I haven't actually cracked the fuel line to see if it's delivering fuel to the throttle body, "
Of course I'd do that first.
Then, you can expect 12v at the injector when you turn the key on . No problem with a multimeter ...on the Voltage range....
I had a similar problem with my son's NIVA (hey...do not laugh) that uses ONE GM made injector: the injector was dead, but there are 2 on the 3.1, so not that.
Come back with findings about fuel delivery and voltage.

[Hardrock6772]

Thought I'd check flow at the line tomorrow.
I'll let ya know what I find.

[dwalmop]

check fuel pressure and regulator!

[ciras3]

You mentioned that you haven't driven this van much. Have you checked the oil level? A lot of Gm's won't start up if there is low oil pressure (don't overlook the silly stuff) Also, was just reading my manual and it suggests to test the pump relay even if you can hear the pump turning on when you turn the key. I always thought that the power went from the key to the relay and then to the pump, but my manual is suggesting that the relay get checked anyway? I might suggest that if your van has A/C, simply pull out that relay and switch it with your fuel pump relay as on my van, they are the same relay.

[Hardrock6772]

No fuel at the throttle body.
12.2V at the harness........both sides.

I disconnected the fuel line right before the filter, jumpered the pump test lead..........

Pump buzzes strong, fuel just dribbles........
(In a coffee can)

Rats!

No sign of leak at the top of the tank, lines are dry, no kinks, etc.

This things evidently got a bad pump....again!

Unless I find it's leaking fuel somewhere above the pump inside the tank.
This had (I believe) one of those "pulse dampers" above the pump, but I always discard those and opt for the hose and clamp arrangement that comes with the new pump.
I think all they do is "quiet" objectionable pump noise.

The pump has a "lifetime" warranty, so........

add another one to the "early retirement" pile! (grin)


Mike