4g63 machining questions

[scottsee]

I’m not really sure what to do. I’ve never had a block machined before. I’ve spent the better half of a week calling around to different places, asking questions about their services, prices. As well as reading dsmtuner’s advanced engine threads (which are a little above me at this point). I’m wanting to get this 6bolt I have all cleaned up, and because I’m going to have it baked I’m needing to bored and hone the block. The thing is; I’m not sure how much to bore it out for my applications-wants. The most inexpensive pistons I’ve seen are for the .002.. Because the price will be the same for the machining no matter how far I take cylinder out towards the walls, is there a max I should go before running into problems with using my stock crank? Are there better types of bits out there I should ask the machinist that they use? is going to the max that the cylinder walls will allow necessarily any better for performance/reliability then just going the min .002? is there a happy medium?

I’ve read a few thread about people taking their block to a 2.3L using a 4g64 crank, and different length rods. I have no idea why. I know I need to learn a lot more about engines before I can make the right decision for my engine, but I would like so help understanding the pros/cons of going up to a 2.3L? when to use a different crank? Also when to use shorter / longer rods, and why?.

I know these are loaded question, and I’m not looking for anyone to spoon feed me information I need to learn. But I would appreciate any insight and maybe even a book, or websites that might to help me understand the physics of a 46g3. anything is appreciated. Thanks.

[JoeWagon]

I can't answer your machining questions, but I'm sure Kevin and Jake can. As for the 2.3, there are only a few downsides. The advantages are easy to see... 15% more displacement, which translates to horsepower and torque at lower RPM. More exhaust flow that spools turbos faster. As for downsides, RPM is one. You shouldn't have to worry about it since you aren't accustomed to shep style shifting (9000+rpm). They say a 2.3/2.4 is good to about 8000-8500rpm. I have heard that the increased crank throw increases stress/pressure on the cylinder walls, as in, the longer the crank throw/rods, the more sideways motion there is going to be. If anyone has had problems with that, I have never heard. Personally I would consider the 2.3 seriously if you are building the motor anyway. carshopinc has a reasonably priced kit. http://carshop.carshopinc.com/produc.../59245/CS23KIT

[scottsee]

wow, thats awsome thanks. is it manditory to get the new or remanufactured crankshaft with 100mm stroke? or can i still use the stock 6bolt crank thats in the shortblock? im not savy on what the 100mm stroke means or represents. Thanks again thats a fantastic price compared to the 2000+ prices i've seen on dsm performance websites.

[kjewer1]

The stroke is determined by the crank (2 liter 88mm, 2.4 = 100mm), and the stroke and the bore determine displacement. If you want a stroker, you have no choice but to use the 100mm crank. If you just want a 2 liter rebuilt, use the stocker.

You're probably going to want to take it out .020 inches, or .5mm, if the walls need cleaning up. The machinist should take care of this just fine and do the honing for final dimensions. You'll need a 20 over piston to match.

My machinist charges me about 500 for the machine work, assembly, etc, everything I dont do myself. I pay about 400 for pistons. Each time I rebuild I'm doing the same thing, but going another 020"/.5mm over

See my other thread on deck/quench height though, you may want to ask your machinist about this.

[scottsee]

i searched, but to no pervail.

[kjewer1]

Searched for what? The thread I mentioned? Its on the performance section. I posted it yesterday.

[scottsee]

thats probably why. i didnt look there.