Runs when it is cold

[maddog245]

I have 1988 buick regal that runs great when it is cold and as soon as it starts to come up to temp it dies. I changed the module coilpack. mass airflow sensor, crank sensor, map sensor, cut off catlatic converter, put new plugs and wires on changed Iac sensor, computer, now I have the plume off and am changing the fuel regulator and fuel rail. I check the ohms on the injectors and there fine at 3.5. someone was also saying the egr valve. what else can it be????? does anyone know what is wrong with this car?. My brother said it could be a relay as it is acting like and electrical problem. Im at my witts end hopefully someone has had this problem before and knows how to resolve this issue. The reson for the egr valve replacment theroy is a soon as it goes into close loop it dies and smells like raw fuel. Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
Jeff

[sierrap615]

does it studenly die or does it spudder then die? when exally does it die? moving, idle, park, gear, WOT? or does it not matter?

[maddog245]

Originally Posted by sierrap615

does it studenly die or does it spudder then die? when exally does it die? moving, idle, park, gear, WOT? or does it not matter?

No it does not matter when it comes up to temp it just falls on its face. If you try to give it gas it just dies. I worked on it again tonite putting it all back together(had the plume off checking injectors) I have no idea what else it could be.

[sierrap615]

if it is a studden failure(like turning off a light switch) then most likey its a electrical problem of some sort. if it studders for a few second then dies, then look more to mechanical problems.

disconnect the electrial connector to the EGR solenoid(assuming its a vacuum style EGR) the solenoid is is connected inline of the vacuum line from the manifold to the EGR.

you may also want to check the O2 sensor for carbon crud build-up.

[maddog245]

Yea it kind of starts pukeing then dies. I checked the egr tonite and it seams to be alright the diapham works and holds vacume. I have not changed the o2 sensor it is reading with the scanner and seems to function properly but that could still be the cause eh?

[maddog245]

Also what about a relay????

[sierrap615]

drive it with the EGR solenoid and (now that i think about it) the CCPS solenoid and see if it die. considering what you done so far how much effort would it take to remove the O2 sensor? i doubt a bad relay, not to say its impossable, but i've never heard of anything slightly simular to that before.

test drive and reply with you results please.

[maddog245]

what is a CCPS? and yes I will replace the 02 sensor next

[sierrap615]

carcoal caniser purge solenoid. same concept as the EGR solenoid. its attached to a vacuum line somewhere. if you can't find it tell me your engine size and i can tell you where it is.

just check the O2, don't change it unless you know its bad. you've blindly changed enough things at this point.

[maddog245]

Well I worked on it again and it is still doing the same thing. I changed the purge solenoid and it just died when it came up to temp. The EGR valve is working correctly and Im at a total loss as to what it could be.

[dwalmop]

are the egr passages clogged?

[maddog245]

no it is fine I have no clue at this point what to check

[Ruley73]

I would change your Coolant Temperature Sensor. They cost under $25 and any decent parts store should have one in stock. That will probably fix your problem. Yours is probably shorted out. As a result, the ECM thinks the engine is still cold and is delivering way too much fuel after the engine warms up.

I'm sorry to hear that you've invested so much with no results, but this should do the trick.

I hope this helps.

[maddog245]

I have checked it with the scanner on and it seems to be working but Im gonna change it and see what happens. I will let you guys know the outcome and I truley appreciate everyones feedback. It has to be something lol!

[sierrap615]

NONONO i didn't say change i just said dissconnect. the EGR and CCPS solenoids only open when the car is in closed loop. disconnecting the electrical connectiors prevents them from opening. if the car works with them disconnected you know the problem is somewhere after them. this will give you a general clue where to look.

also, stupid idea i forgot earlier, try leaving the O2 disconnected so the car can't go into closed loop.

proper diagnostics is the key, as i think you can see by now blindly replacing pieces will only cost you money.