Low Oil Light, Heat problems. HELP PLEASE

[bobasinbob]

I'm a newbie where cars are concerned and just found this forum and am wondering if someone can help me out with a few problems.

My car is a 1995 Cutlass Supreme

For over a year now my low oil light has been on. BUT not always. Here's what I noticed:

1) Start car, low oil light is on
2) Turn off car and start maybe 3 minutes or less later and chances are the low oil light will not come on
3) Start car a few hours later and voila, low oil light back to on

I've taken it in to a mechanics and they checked everything with one of those electronic hookups and everything appeared okay. They said it could be a sensor in the oil pan that's going.

Since I know next to nothing about cars I don't want to gamble on a "could be" so does anyone else have any suggestions? One thing to add, I did get the synthetic oil change 2 years running from some Midas run oil change place and I'm wondering if that could have something to do with it. The oil change I'm talking about supposedly lasts longer and is better oil. I think maybe I got duped but am not sure.

Next problem:

My engine temp gauage inside the car will sometimes fly up while sitting at a traffic light past 100 (never to 125, or maybe 125, never more) and then as I start to drive the temp goes down.

Any suggestions on this or is it normal?

Next problem:
The heat in the car (on the dashboard) with I II III IV suddenly stopped working and will only work on the highest. I turn to I, nothing, same with the rest until I hit the last. Could this be a wiring problem or a switch problem?

In the summer I put in a new stereo and it started shortly after that. I took apart the dash again and re-checked wires etc and it worked for about a week and then suddenly stopped. Could it be wires even though it works on the highest setting or could it be the switch itself?

Thanks to anyone and everyone who responds.

[DIY Mechanic]

An oil pressure-sending unit is inexpensive enough to perform a blind replacement.
That is, replacing the part without confirming that that is the problem.
The Oil Pressure Sending unit is $6.99 at AutoZone.

Unplug, screw out and screw in reconnect job.
Very easy. The parts counter guy can sell you a socket to use.

Temp Gauge. As long as it does not overheat there is not a problem.
BMW at one time had an accurate temperature gauge.
But customer’s thought something was wrong since the temperature could swing from 180º to 210º depending on how hard the engine was run before it idles down, outside temperature, temperature of the coolant in the radiator when the thermostat opened.
Now the needle slowly goes to the center and doesn’t move unless there is a problem.

Do you have a problem? Maybe.
The thermostat is another cheap replacement item with a lifetime guarantee.
$5.99 for an original temperature thermostat at AutoZone.
Two screws hold the thermostat housing down.
A new gasket comes with the thermostat.

The heater motor may have a dead spot.
Your symptoms are exactly what happened with my wiper motor.
I had to turn the switch to high before low would work. I
also had a similar problem with a Toyota starter.
It would not work if the rotor stopped in this one particular spot.

$29.99 – New at --- that’s right AutoZone.

I go to many places to purchase parts.
I just went to the AutoZone web site as a convenient reference.

[maxtone_witherball]

I also recently had a non-functioning blower motor in my 95 cutlass supreme. I removed it from under the passenger side dash and found it to be quite dirty. I removed the end cap and cleaned it up real good shaking out all the black soot. I re-installed it and it now works like NEW!! I would try that before spending $100 for a new one.

[bobasinbob]

I got the heater fixed. Here's what it was (as quoted on the bill) "Blower Motor Resistor" so one problem down.

I have to admit I wish I decided to learn abouts cars instead of computers because it'd save a hell of a lot of money being able to do this stuff myself.

Thanks. Now to tackle the next problems.