b20 vtec help!!!

[b20crv-tec]

Listen i got a problem i need to know info on b20 vtec i have a b20 block with an itr head skunk2 intake manifold with the b20 throttle body titanium valve springs, retainers, seals, rocker arms. irelize i need to wire the vtec to the wire harness of the b20 how the f#@! do i do that. also how do i choose what valves i want with my setup i also have skunk2 stg 3 cams and gears i also need to figure out how i go about getting indiviyal coils because i bought a fireball ignition system off my friend to ball him out of some trouble. I was thinking of doing a ls tranny because im going turbo asap.also what fuel setup should i do because i am basically started from scratch i have no fuel rall or injecters i have a gsr ecu and a obd0-obd1 conversion harness je pistons and a block bored 4 thousands of an inch because they wouldint fit tin the cylinder walls i have eagle rods and i think thats about it please help i also relize i should be trying to research this but i cant seem find any info on none of this

[kris]

Sounds to me like you are really in over your head. You really shouldnt be playing with a setup like that, if you dont know what the hell you're doing.

For starters, those cams are going to cause problems with your stock B20 pistons.

[honda_luvr_2000]

if you can find info on doing the LS/VTEC it's the same, except use a B20 headgasket. And the JE pistons u mentioned having (that the moderator didn't see) will be fine. If you really need I can give you sum info on the LS/VTEC swap, but it'll be a loooong post.

[kris]

Yep, I did miss that. Having one big run on sentance like that makes my eyes hurt.

Still sounds like a motor setup for disaster. Why throw in all those goodies into the bottom end, without sleaving it?

[honda_luvr_2000]

lol. i agree, but hey if he duzn't boost or over-do the compression, it should be alright. however i would resleeve since it's already apart and being built. oh well

[b20crv-tec]

alright so you say sleeve it thats cool but why not just get a block gaurd welded into the casting i know alot of people that were going turbo n didint have enough money n did that. i not one of those rich kids using my daddy's money this is comin out of my pocket. i relize the setup is crazy and yes if you could e mail me that (r put it on here) post up i would apreciate it i am willing to read,nowone gave me a chance or im just not a good reader. I have run on sentences and a readingproblem maybe i should go back to school but then again thats why im in school for automotive because its about solving problems on your head. anyway im not looking for opinions im looking for facts so and get this project underway. now also i would like to know if there is a diffrence in a itr spool valve assembly or if i could use a gsr one. whats the diffrence between a itr head and a gsr head beside the engineer shoting steroids into there sick ass creation. i went the ls vtec route at first but it didint have enough bottom end torque for me and every one told me go ls vtec i said no simply because every one said 2. yeah im stubborn but when i go up against a ls vtec crx with the bottom end bone stock im going to eat em up. furthermore i do somewhat know what im doing do to the fact i have been open minded 2 people like you in the aspect of giving me facts on what i am doing so give me some input know on fuel, valves, tranny, and some things i wiil need to control my air fuel ratio. i have heard alot of things so im open for more. now read this all over again and make sure you dont forget to read everything and ill be back tommorrow to see what you post im interested.

[b20crv-tec]

you dont need to post the hole thing just the part of wiring the non vtec block to the vtec head. and your opinion about hydrolic or cable trans. also the cv joint to use. there is also acouple of things that i have that i did not post because it was to much to read i will elaborate as we go.

[eckoman_pdx]

Originally Posted by b20crv-tec

irelize i need to wire the vtec to the wire harness of the b20 how the f#@! do i do that.

First off, are you said you are using a GSR ECU, correct? You'll need a DOHC Vtec ecu like that, so B16A, GSR, or Type-R ecu. Once you have the DOHC Vtec ecu (which you said you have), you'll basically run a wire from the proper pin in the ecu to the Vtec control solenoid. You'll also need to hook up a knock sensor. A standard Vtec ecu won't engage Vtec without a signal from the knock sensor.

Also if you insist on using a block gaurd versus re-sleeving, have it properly installed and welded into place, etc (like you mentioned). Don't just place it in there and call it a day. Half assing it like that isn't a proper install. I'm a fan of doing it correct and re-sleeving it, though a block gaurd properly fitted and welded and installed in it is better than nothing, though still not as good as re-sleeving the motor. If you want to re-sleeve it check out AEBS, Darton, Golden Eagle and/or Benson Sleeves.

Also, remember a B20 block is essentially a Bored out B18B1 block. The cylinder walls are thinner as a result, so it can't handle quiet as much boost as an LS. I'd save up $$ and have it properly re-sleeved, epecially if your power goals are such you'll have to crank the boost. You don't want to blow the motor because it wasn't built correctly for the set-up. Also, don't go reving the motor past 7000rpm. Remember the LS and CRV blocks are ment to redline @ a much lower RPM than the Vtec motors. A big reason people say LS/Vtecs and CR-Vtecs are unrealiable is because they slap the vtec head on the block and rev it like it's a GSR or B16A. The head may be B16A or GSR, but the block and internals are still LS-CRV, and can't handle being rev'd as high. Even though the head can take it, you're over-reving the block when you do that. Now if you have fully built the bottom end up fully to handle higher rev's it can be a different story.

Your profile says you have a 1990 CRX? If thats what it's going into, use a cable tranny. If I'm wrong and it's 92 and up civic, use a hydro tranny. The CV Joints you'd use would already be on the axles you're using for the swap, do you already have the axels or do you still need to know what to use? Assuming this is going into a 90 CRX like it says in your profile, you can use 90-93 teg axles with a 90-93 teg intermidiate shaft. Hasport suggests changing the outer joints to 86-89 teg outer joints if you go this route. Another route is axles from a 86-89 teg using innner joints from a 90-93 teg.

[Ace$nyper]

Not to be rude but back away from the motor send it to someone who knows how to build as blowing this thing after its first firing up would suck.

[b20crv-tec]

alright i think i understand im thankful for your help and yes its a 90 crx dx and no i dont have the the axels what would you prefer the 90-93 or the 86-89
yes it is a gsr ecu and it has directions for it but i didint go over them yet were would the knock sensor go? on the block right a non vtec block doesint have one already? i still need to buy the vtec solenoid but on ebay there is one for a itr and there is one for a gsr and the itr is like 200 and the gsr is like 120 i would also need the wire harness for it as well right also i know not to get a b16 tranny because of my plans for turbo so i was going to get a gsr but i think im going to get a ls do to how cheep i can get them.also what valves i still dont have them once i get all this together i going to come back and ask your opinion on fuel managment system and acesnyper i already am underway and going to finish this project i never finished anything before so im stickin with it and i would appreciate your opinion ass well on my previous inquires thanx again and keep coming

[b20crv-tec]

alright thanx anyway

[3k9civic]

lol man you have some nice shiet there but you dont know what to do with it. how saadd..with turbo boost why need skunk 2 stage 3 and hope that your piston is low compression lol. all you have is there perfect for a fully built motor. i built a b20vtec myself but my much stock block and head. for your question about the wiring. there this thing call vtec oil line ($150 kit)wich dirrect from the vtec head to the block. you have to drill 2 hole one is on the head and the other is the block it is quite hard to explain it but if you interested, email me and i will sent you some pic from my b20vtec to you to get some idea. [email protected]

[GScivic7]

^^^ werd with what he said. If you are boosting a motor you want to use a cam with less valve overlap and duration.

For the oil line to feed your head, you can just T off your oil pressure sensor on the back of the block or get a Golden Eagle adapter for your oil filter.