Got boost?

[fcdriver]

Well hopefully in a week or so I will.
I just bought a t2 longblock with complete ecu and wiring harness, intercooler and piping(top mount), everything I need for the swap minus the t2 trans.
I'm going to pick the engine up tomorow and if I can manage to get it to turn over I should be boosting within the week.
Just thought I'd share my new toy with every other rotor head on here.

Future plans arn't in this order but: fuel cut defender, boost controler, 720 secondarys, bigger downpipe and full exhuast (rb more then likely), some sort of fuel monitor (I'm not totaly set on which to get), fmic, and upgrading from the stock turbo ( unsure which I will choose here also).

Hopefully all this can be installed before next spring so I won't have to worry about driving the car and adding things as I go, because it's going to rest for the winter so it stays nice and shiney.

[RedFC3S]

Originally Posted by fcdriver

Well hopefully in a week or so I will.
I just bought a t2 longblock with complete ecu and wiring harness, intercooler and piping(top mount), everything I need for the swap minus the t2 trans.
I'm going to pick the engine up tomorow and if I can manage to get it to turn over I should be boosting within the week.
Just thought I'd share my new toy with every other rotor head on here.

Future plans arn't in this order but: fuel cut defender, boost controler, 720 secondarys, bigger downpipe and full exhuast (rb more then likely), some sort of fuel monitor (I'm not totaly set on which to get), fmic, and upgrading from the stock turbo ( unsure which I will choose here also).

Hopefully all this can be installed before next spring so I won't have to worry about driving the car and adding things as I go, because it's going to rest for the winter so it stays nice and shiney.

sounds like a good project, good luck

If your gonna go FMIC and bigger turbo, you might want to consider getting some bigger secondarys, bigger than the 720's

[fcdriver]

Thanks, I really haven't got the enitre parts list fixed out just yet because I'm having to add things as I go along, ex. rebuilt motor this one is blown, it looks to be an apex seal but I haven't torn it down completly just the intake and exhaust manifolds and theres peices of what looks to be apex seals in the turbo manifold and the rear rotar housing.

One question I have is should I go for a large street port, full bridge or half bridge for a high 200 to low 300 hp aplication?

[Soyo]

if its a street car you shouldn't go over half bridge, and street would be the most reliable

a street port should be sufficient for what you're wanting though

[D3rELiC]

you should get a full standalone rather than a fuel monitor, and dont run over 9-10 psi without fuel management.

you should not spend money on a rb exhaust go 3'' with a good muffler/dp and it will cost you less.

[fcdriver]

Ok, thanks I was planning on only running around 12 psi so I guess I'll go with a haltech or is there another better standalone?

It is a street car but emisions isn't really an issue here and as far as idling goes I can stand an idle at around 1,500-2,000 rpms without worry ( mpg isn't really an issue either since I don't care how much gas I pour into the tank as long as it gets me where I want however fast I want).

Thanks for the feedback I'll try to keep a tab on what all I do and how much it runs me.

[Soyo]

buy a racing beat exhaust, I don't know why anyone would tell you not to... it is obviously the best exhaust out there and no custom mock-up job at your local muffler shop is gonna match up to it. no offense, I just totally disagree

oh and your idle is too high man, you should idle around 750 and no higher than like 1200

[fcdriver]

Yeah I was expecting it to idle around 750 like it does now but I've read that a bridge or pp idles higher but I can't remember if they both have a higher idle or just one.

If you can't tell this will be my first "high performance" rotary build aside from the standard header back exhaust and minor intake mods.
I'm still researching on what all I need to go through inorder to keep it as reliable as possible.

[RedFC3S]

bridgeport wont last long at all. When my motor pops, im going full bridge, since It's only a weekend car now. Just stick with a streetport

[fcdriver]

Ok will do. Any other advice as far as reliable performance products, ei. manufacturers (who makes the best that last the longest)?

[RedFC3S]

Originally Posted by fcdriver

Ok will do. Any other advice as far as reliable performance products, ei. manufacturers (who makes the best that last the longest)?

oh, and just stick with a koyo radiator, its cheap, and its a must

[drftk1d]

Fuck the stock ecu, save money in the long run, find a haltech.

[D3rELiC]

dont forget to find someone who tune them nearby.

[fcdriver]

Yeah, I've got a local tuning shop about 3 mins away that had moved from the same town that I live in to the next one over. As far as setting everything up and getting a pretune (get it running) I'm pretty sure that I can get everything running right and after I get it on the dyno I'll probably be the one tunning it the way I want it because I want it to run a little rich, not to rich but enough to keep it from leaning its self out at higher rpms.
I've never tuned a standalone but I have tuned several carb engines and I know theres a big differance between the two but I think I can do it with a little help from the tuners there.