Might be getting a Supra, need to know...

[4GZChatch]

Hey Guys,

I might be getting my first supra, it's a 1990 Turbo targa. I won't see it until tomorrow, but the guy claims it's in real clean condition, pearl white, tan leather interior, no leaks around the targa, 3 year old ct26 turbo, etc. It sounds real nice, but I need to know what type of things to look for. I've been a honda/mitsu guy for the longest time, and don't know much about the supras ... So, I need to know what can and does go wrong, and what I should look for, and I have a few questions.

Is there a way to test the clutch and transmission for problems? That is my only real worry. I have done enough Honda engine swaps that I can change an FWD clutch out in about 4 hours, but I wouldn't even know what to do If I had to change out a RWD clutch! Thus, I'd like to make sure that I'm not gonna be doing that in a month!

Also, where can I look for aftermarket parts? Is there stuff readily available, like springs, shocks, hard pipe kits, etc? Where do the guys who know go?

I would appreciate any input! I'm completely stoked to get back to boost and to have a supra, I just want to make sure I do it right!

Thanks in advance!!

[projectsupramk3]

MKIII's don't generally have clutch or gearbox problems except maybe alittle grinding in first-second, if they do though it's not a defect but the way the owner drove the car. The R-154 (turbo 5-speed) is very beefy, some have put down 700+hp on them without opening it up. The clutch should last about 130K miles although that estimate will change if it's babied or driven hard and any mods it has. Mine is still on the original clutch at 200K miles to give you an idea. If you can drop a FWD trans in four hours you'll have no problem with the Supra, it is MUCH easier IMO, just don't let the pull-type clutch fool you when dropping the trans. The only things to watch out for are rod-knock and BHG (blown head gasket), very common in the MA70 MKIII world. Check for milkshake in the oil cap, any smoke from the exhaust, knocking sounds at 2-3K rpms, those kind of things. Everything else is just like any other car, check to make sure everything is tight, origional, undamaged, the usual. Since it's a targa just double check for bad targa seals, water stains on the front carpet, doors, and kickpanel. It's very common, some vaseline will swell the seals up or you could buy them brand new from toyota. Pull the codes also when you go to look at the car, pull them after you test drive it so you get all the codes, the online TSRM explains how-to in the link. Lastly search and read all you can, always consult the TSRM, search supraforums.com, don't forget to check SOGI. Here's some links to keep you busy...
TSRM - http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/techtips.html
SOGI - http://www.supras.com/04/main/index.php
Supraforums - (of coarse) http://www.supraforums.com
SupraSport - http://www.suprasport.com/suprasport...og/default.php
For aftermarket there isn't many options besides used jap parts that spill over, turbo kits, coilovers, it's limited. Although SupraSport has been doing a very good job of building and supplying new aftermarket parts for us, they had a rough time not long ago but now it's back to normal I hear. Tons of parts are on ebay also, especialy a large majority of new and used jap aftermarket. Good luck and glad you finally made it to the dark side.

[4GZChatch]

Good info! Thanks a lot! I looked at the car just yesterday, and it looks clean. I couldn't see any sort of stains or anything from the targa, and the seals all look very clean. I didn't have time to drive it, although I certainly will...

The motor seemed to run very smoothly, although the idle was a little rough at initial startup. The check engine light was not lit up at all.

I only had one question. As the guy drove away I could hear the turbo spool but when he shifted the bov kinda chattered instead of blowing off smoothly. Is that normal? I have heard some high boost vehicles do that, but none stock. Then again, I'm totally noobish to the Supra.

I also had one question for you. Are the stock oil pressure and boost gauges accurate, or are they just computerized guesses like they are on the mitsus, where the ecu guesses at the boost amount based on the MAF reading?

Thanks for the input and links!!

[4GZChatch]

Also forgot to ask, do you know what stock compression should be? I plan on compression testing it soon, as well as having a good look under the hood and around the engine in general.

How is the trans easier to pull than a FWD? Don't you have to have a lift and let it down from under the car? Pardon the ignorance!

[adamgtx]

its not as hard to remove on rwd if u dont have a lift you can put the car on jackstands and lower the trans with a floor jack with a trans holder on it i have removed and repalced 1 on a mk3 with a friend.... around an 1-2hr or so

[4GZChatch]

crazy. i guess there's less stuff to get out of the way... you don't have to pull much huh? On a FWD you have to pull all the crap like intake, battery, axles, suspension and all to get to it.

Is there any good place to find out about the compression specs?

I heard that there is a tendency to have blown head gaskets. Wouldn't a compression test reveal that?

Thanks!