2001 Window regulator

[jeepwhiz]

There are 2 cables that loop through a spool on the end of the motor.
There is a bead, similar to bike brakes, on the end of each cable.

The lift cable is the one that breaks. It goes over the pully at the top
and attaches to a plastic anchor block on the lift bracket. This cheap
piece of plastic breaks off and down the window goes.

Hopefully you didn't toggle the switch too much to trying to get the
window to work. If you did there's a chance that the loose cable
bound up on the spool damaging both the cable and the cheap plastic
spool. If you got lucky and the inards are okay do like I did.

Drill a hole in the metall lift bracket near the broken plastic block.
Attach an electrical eyelet to the cable, behind the bead. Use a small
screw and nut to attach the eyelet to the bracket. Seems to work so
far.

I just did this, the passenger side broke then an hour later the driver
side broke. Unfortunately, I kept trying to make the passenger side go
up.

Go to : http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/pr...aintsearch.cfm
and file a complaint about it!
Your mileage may vary, this may not work in all cases and is not
guaranteed to work at all.

[OKJeepin]

I ended up buying a new regulator, any advice on pulling the old one and putting in the new one?

[jeepwhiz]

Originally Posted by OKJeepin

I ended up buying a new regulator, any advice on pulling the old one and putting in the new one?

I've only done a 2001. I assume other years are similar. After you get the
door skin, weather barrier and speaker out there are 3 grey bolts near the
center of the door and 4 larger dark bolts, 2 at the top, 1 middle and 1
bottom, these hold the regulator in. Remove the ones that need to come
and loosen the slotted ones.

Unplug the motor power connector. It has a red tab that has to be slid
over before the latch will release. It pokes through an opening just below
the mounting bolts mentioned above.

You should be able to reach though an opening to slide the window up and
down. Postiton the window so that you can see the bottom of it. You
should see 2 white plastic areas where 2 pins from the window attach to
the regulator, once you see them you'll see the retaining clips, pull them
out. Carefully separate the window from the regulator.

You'll have to hold the window up high. Slide the regulator parts out and
turn the top towards the front of the door and down so that it can come
out the large opening at the bottom.

Two thing to note here. 1) It helps to have a block of wood to prop the
window up with. Once the regulator is out the window wants to slide out
of the tracks at the bottom. 2) The motor and track are only loosely
attached by the cables so you have to fiddle with them seperately. Slide
the track free first then the motor.

Going back in is just the opposite. Hope it helps.

[Jeeper1949]

Greetings,

It sounds like you have a solution to my problem. What is an 'electrical eyelet'? Other than that I think I can make this work.

Thanks for a great idea!

[Emoney250]

Using your advice and a Youtube video, I got the new motor changed (front driver side). Now, when I roll window up (about 2 inches from being all the way up), it starts to fall out of its "track" to the rear of the window. I can see the back edge of the window emerge. Since this appears to cause a pinching (or smoothness of the window going up), the motor slows and bogs down. FYI, when I had window unhooked from clips, I could manually roll window up all the way with no tracking problems. (I used tape to hold window up and out of the way while I changed motor. I did NOT remove window from door). I'm now wondering if my old motor was fine (I saved it) and if the window came "off track" (not go up evenly) for OTHER reasons. Obviously, when I set the window in the new motor slots, I made sure the two black plastic pins/pieces were inserted in the white plastic AND the window sitting all the way on the bottom of the window regulator. Then I put metal clips back in. I will also add that after window goes "off kilter" as described, I can grab the top of the window, reset it back in the rear "track" and the new regulator will continue to PROPERLY close the window. So it seems I need to troubleshoot why the window goes "off kilter" in the first place. It seems (as I said earlier) the I have the bottom of the window properly set on the regulator AND the metal pins in place. Any suggestions........?