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#1
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120K tune up
i looked on 3si saw what was needed for the 60K tune up im guessin thats the same for the 120K? also the 60K i saw was just a list but i remember seeing a detailed explanition on how to do the service yourself but cant find it now if any 1 has that page and also are the 60 and 120 tune up the same? Thx (also price for doing a 120K tune up?)
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#2
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Re: 120K tune up
the service manuel tells you what to change and when you could just look in there
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famous last words: hey guys watch this famous last words: i bet i can do that better 98 3000gt sl
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#3
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Re: 120K tune up
http://www.team3s.com/60k.htm
http://www.vr4stealth.com/60k-tune.htm http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3S/Mai...elt/index.html
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96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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#4
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Re: Re: 120K tune up
Quote:
Igovert thx a lot u help me out all the time and respond quick as hell and thx to every 1 else this is by far one of the best message boards around thx |
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#5
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IMPORTANT BEFORE YOU DO THE 60K/120K SERVICE
do some research as to the tools you will need. on the team3s website Igovert gave you above, they talk about the 'spanner wrench' or 'special mitsu tool' needed to remove the crankshaft pulley. you don't really need it to REMOVE the pulley, but if you don't have it, it will be very difficult as i can't see any way to get the pulley back on AND torque the bolt when REPLACING the pulley.... because the crank pulley will turn if you try to torque the bolt, so you need the spanner wrench to hold the crank pulley stationary while you torque the bolt. i've got the spanner wrench, so instead of purchasing one, let me know if you're gonna need it (after you research and find why you need it) and maybe we can work something out for you to borrow it or something. ALSO, i'm not sure how technical you are when it comes to torque specs, for the most part, i personally don't think they're that big of a deal unless its a bolt thats on a critical part of the car, like the head bolts or something. but i had to rent a torque wrench to re-torque the crank pulley bolt when i put the crank pulley back on. and torque wrenches are not cheap to buy, nor are they cheap to rent. so look into it, do some research, ask around on the forums, and gather all information on everything you will need to do/tools & materials you need to have. good luck!
__________________
93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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#6
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How much would it cost to have this done professionally? I am at 117k and want to know how much i need to put away for this service. Also how long does it usually take?
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#7
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Re: 120K tune up
This is all in the FAQ, however it will take a day probably for a mechanic, if he has nothing else to distract him. First time changing the plugs and timing belt on a 3/S are pretty long processes. Plus gotta figure he's charging you 60-70 an hour. Parts will probably come out to $500, maybe a few hundred more or less if you get them all yourself and bring them to the mechanic(which I'd recommend). So in total probably 1,000-2,000 depending on the competancy and honesty or your mechanic.
I'm getting close to the 60K, and I'm going to order all the parts, and do as much as I can, then if I feel something is out of the realm of my abilities, I'll take it to my trustworthy mechanic to finish the hard stuff. I'd recommend you do the same. Do everything that is in your ability, then let a mechanic finish the rest.
__________________
96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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#8
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i did the 60k by myself (my bro helped me, a second hand is nice), and it only cost me about $330 in parts and 8 hours of FUN!
__________________
93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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#9
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Re: 120K tune up
You're definantly going to need to tell us how you got all that for $330.
__________________
96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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#10
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wow no kidding share the wealth of knowledge.
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#11
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got my parts form thepartsbin.com. free shipping on orders over 50 bucks. i just changed the timing belt (and accessories) and water pump. i didn't change plugs, wires, gaskets or any of those little things. although i should probably change the plugs, that's an easy job. and its probably a good idea for me to clean the throttle body soon, as it can get dirty and cause problems.
so ya, i just changed the basic stuff (belt, tensioner, pulleys, water pump). and it still took me about 8 hours with the help of a friend. but i just took my time, double and triple checked everything to make sure i did it right. they make it out to be a really tough job, but if you do the research online and get the necessary tools, then the only hard part is the small space you have to work in btw the sidewall and pulleys. however, when installing the new timing belt, the cam gear sprockets want to jump forward, and its pretty scary when they do, b/c they snap forward like a bullet! and you just gotta make sure your finger aren't in the way (this is where its nice to have someone else helping you!!!!). but basically just follow the directions, get the #1 piston at TDC, make sure the valves are in the correct position, when putting the belt on, clamp it to the cam sprockets with binder clips, and you're golden. right after i finished, i heard this ticking sound and got scared i did something wrong. but it was just the infamous lifter tick coming out. and another thing that makes this a semi-tough job is that in order to have room to work, you need to remove the driver side engine mount, and so you have to jack the engine up by the oil pan in order to remove this mount. when re-assembling everything, my motor had moved a little bit from torquing bolts of pulleys, etc on the block. so it was a little tricky getting the motor mount back on and aligning it with the engine, but its all good. there's nothing quite like a good technical challenge. NOTE, i did not change all of the pulley (idler pulley and one other) b/c i realized they sent me the wrong parts, but its not that big of a deal at the 60k interval. However, it would be imperative to change these pulleys at 120k, b/c if they pulleys siezed up, the belt would be worn down and eventually break. hope that wealth of knowledge was of value to some people. any questions regarding the 60k/120k, feel free to ask.
__________________
93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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#12
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man your awesome thanks and btw is that your gt in the pic?
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#13
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ha i wish! no, that pic was taken from the pamphlet of the Euro Spec model of the 3000GT. mine is actually black in color
__________________
93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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#14
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haha i was going to say good camera and setting and nice car.
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