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ignition switch
I've come to the conclusion after reading all the previous threads about stalling blazers and dashboard lights going out, that my problem is the ignition switch. Can any of you guys tell me how to replace this thing. I see the black box under the cylinder and have followed the harness, but how do I get that thing out of there.
thanks JKdon |
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#2
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#3
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I had the same thing happen a year ago on my 97 blazer. I took the black box off(a pain) and took it apart(Patience) and the contacts had carbon build up on them. I cleaned them off with a pencil eraser and put it back together and It worked fine since then. I'm cheap so i fixed it myself but you can replace the wiring harness for about $150.00 or less. Let me know if you need more help
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#4
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Re: ignition switch
here is some instructuons to help you. It really isn't to hard to do. This is fresh in my mind since i did this tuesday. Im not a machanic but I have played one on TV, so forgive my ignorance on proper names.
First disconnect the battery. Then take the two Torx Screws out of the bottom cover of the stering column. next, Remove the top cover. there are two torx like screws but there male instead of female one is behind the black box. If you don't have the right tool a small socket will turn it.Sorry I don't remember the size. When removing the top cover you will need to cut the bottom side where the keyswitch is or else you will have to remove it(a big pain). There are two more of the torx like screws that hold the black box on but they are hard to get to. Again if you don't have the right tool then you can take it out with a flat screwdriver spinning the sides of the screw down and a pair of needle nose pliers will help to. When you get the screws off try to cut a grove in the end of it with a hack saw. This will allow you to put it back in with a flathead screwdriver. With the black box now off pop of the top cover opposite of the side the wires are in. be careful not to lose the 6 springs that will fall out. Next remove the ring around the circle end of the box now you can open the box up. there should be 6 L shaped contacts in there be sure to remember where they go . There are 8 spots but only 6 are needed. On the end of the contacts you will see a circle if it is black then theres your problem. Clean them off and put the box back together. The cyclinder is the hardest part you will have to hold it in place with a screwdriver and get the spring in the right place while putting the cover back on. Once you get the box back together(be sure to put the springs in) connect your battery and use a screwdriver to see if it cranks. You will see what I'm talking about. This way if you do something wrong you wont have to take everything back off. If this works then you have fixed it. if not it might be a bad wire in the harness. good luck and if you need more info then just ask |
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#5
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Re: ignition switch
Ignition switch - white connector - how to remove?
Hi, I'm working on replacing the ignition switch in our '97 Blazer. I have the steering wheel column covers off. Above the key tumbler there is a white connector that must be removed. It is small and has two wires that go to the ignition switch. For the life of me, I can't figure out how to pull out this white connector. I've tugged on it from different angles. I looked at the replacement switch and notice that the bottom of its white connector is a button that can be depressed. I guess this is what signals the ignition switch to work when you turn the key tumbler. I hope this helps describe this connector that I need to remove. Barpat, thanks for the info about cleaning the connector but I want to try replacing the entire switch. Any and all advice appreciated. Thanks in advance, -- recurve |
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#6
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Re: ignition switch
It should pull right out or might have a locking mechanism that you will have to hold open to pull the connector.
Don't just tug on the wires to the connector, look for a clipping mechanism. |
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#7
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Re: ignition switch
Thanks BlazerLT. There must be something to disengage or a special wiggling technique. I posted a picture and more info in the following thread:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=287636 Thanks for helping me, -- recurve |
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#8
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Re: ignition switch
when taking the white connector off you have to turn and pull at the same time toward the passenger side or to the right. I still don't understand why you want to mess with the ignition switch itself when you explained an electrical problem. there is no need to replace the switch, it just turns some gears that turns the cylinder in the black box.
Have Fun! |
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#9
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Re: ignition switch
You should do some more reading becasue this switch box can render a truck unstartable.
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#10
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Re: ignition switch
Hi barpat, I think you have me confused with someone else. You told me I might want to remove the ignition switch and clean the carbon from the connectors.
BlazerLT… a lot of places on the forum people suggest replacing the ignition switch. Right now, our '97 Blazer doesn't start so that's why I'm replacing the switch. I got the white connector off. Here is the deal. When looking above the steering wheel (from the ceiling looking down) you will see two small pieces of aluminum holding the white connector from above. Between these two small pieces of aluminum is an open space. You will discover that there is a small plastic lever attached to the white connector. You will need a jeweler's screw driver (or something thin and strong) to stick in that cavity and push on the plastic lever. I pushed with the screw driver on the side of the cavity closest to the engine block (instead of the side close to my stomach) and the white connector started to rotate and popped out quite easily. Not much force was needed at all. When looking from above, the white connector rotated out with a clockwise motion on a plane parallel to road. Thanks, -- recurve |
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#11
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Re: ignition switch
I was responding to barpat96.
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#12
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Re: ignition switch
Its definitely worth replacting that switch recurve, I tried the cleaning of contacts and that helped for a month, until it left me on the side of the road, thanks for all the responses guys, this got me back on the road for 71 bucks at advanced auto
jkdon |
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#13
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Re: ignition switch
The problem i thought you had was carbon buildup on the metal connectors inside the black box. As to it not lasting, all I know is that my blazer would lose all power(even while driving down the road) and sometimes turning the key several times would help until one ay it didn't crank at all. I took apart the switch box(Black Box) and cleaned the contacts and its worked fine since then. Thats been over a year ago and i haven't had any problems. Maybe I got lucky or maybe I experinced some thing different. The Question I want to know is why carbon buildup occurs on the contacts. I was told that Smoking in a car is the culprit but I dismissed that since I dont smoke
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#14
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Re: ignition switch
Recurve, please let me know if you get your blazer fixed and what the problem was.
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#15
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Re: ignition switch
Hi barpat, I'll let you know when I get it fixed. You and the rest of the guys on this forum have been a great help, I'll definitely keep you posted. At the moment I'm waiting on an E3 external torx socket that I ordered from http://www.lara.com/
It will probably be another 3 or 4 days before I get the part. I tried to grip the two torx screws that hold the ignition switch with needle nose pliers to no avail. And yes, those same symptoms that happened to you barpat happened to our '97 Blazer. I do not know if the previous owners of our vehicle smoked, they might have. $70 is nothing to sneeze at. I seriously thought about cleaning the contacts like you did but I think that the carbon may mysteriously come back. I'm hoping this new starter will keep these problems at bay a bit longer. It might be that some manufacturers of the starter built them better than others. Thanks to everyone, -- recurve |
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