Just got my 88 10th anna turbo 13b

justins'rx-7 · #1 10-13-2004, 01:20 AM

Tight car but i know nothing about rotory motors and she need some work. Anybody that can talk to me about tuning this baby up would help me aout a lot!! She needs a shifter bushings and i've been looking at the racing beat full turbo exhaust it says it puts 59 hp on but it's almost 800 bucks!! anyone who knows anything about this please help!!!

J-Rat · #2 10-13-2004, 03:11 AM

What do you want to know? Shifter bushings are available at Mazdatrix, and yeah, the RB system is expensive. there are cheaper systems, but you get what you pay for. I run a Thunderfabrications DP/MP into the RB catback.

As far as tuning, there are logical steps you need to follow.

drftk1d · #3 10-13-2004, 12:34 PM

congrats on the 10AE.

justins'rx-7 · #4 10-13-2004, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Rat

What do you want to know? Shifter bushings are available at Mazdatrix, and yeah, the RB system is expensive. there are cheaper systems, but you get what you pay for. I run a Thunderfabrications DP/MP into the RB catback.

As far as tuning, there are logical steps you need to follow.

Thanks for the info.. As far as tuning goes at cold start she runs at 3 grand for like 30 seconds then slowy starts to drop. Once she warms up she sits at like 15 hundred. Only once have i had it at 900 1 grand range but keep in mind i've only had the car 3 days now. At idle it sounds like the rpms are going up and down, not a lot but it sounds like someones lightly touching the gas. and i'm sure that there are holes in the exhaust it will need to be replaced before I go and gte it taged. Some time this week i'm going to go get new plug wires and plugs and change the oil maybe one of the plugs is fouling out or something what do u think?

D3rELiC · #5 10-13-2004, 09:58 PM

the 3k at startup is a normal thing, to heat up the cats so they run 100% of their emission cleaning capacity

Soyo · #6 10-13-2004, 10:23 PM

rotary idles are almost never solid, be glad yours just moves a little, my ranges from 300-1200 all the time... its just plain wierd, but she runs and thats all that matters haha

J-Rat · #7 10-14-2004, 03:41 AM

Mine idles solid as a rock, and all of mine have. Its all in mastering the initial settings.

Aruba27 · #8 10-14-2004, 05:53 AM

if you're a noob to rotaries, don't forget you cant use synthetic oil. i know it might not be worth posting up here, but i don't want a 10AE goin to waste.

justins'rx-7 · #9 10-14-2004, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Rat

Mine idles solid as a rock, and all of mine have. Its all in mastering the initial settings.

Well how do I adjust my idle does that intercooler just come off or what I don't want to start pulling stuff off and end up F&*%ed in the end...

J-Rat · #10 10-14-2004, 03:18 PM

The intercooler has to come off for the TPS adjustment, unless you get a REALLY long screwdrver. I have managed it without removing the IC.

Idle is a function of many things that all combine to give you either a good idle, or a messed up one. These things (for an S4 TII) are Initial Set connector, timing, variable resistor, Air mix (on the BAC), throttle stops and TPS. YOu can throw the AWS system in there for good measure, but a proper working one will not affect idle after the car is warmed up.

Initial Set Connector: A 2 wire connector in the drivers side battery area that needs to be jumpered while making idle adjustments. This disables the BAC functioning.

Timing: This needs to be dead on, and cannot be checked accurately unless the car is ALREADY IDLING under or around about 900. Reason? Your ECU will start feeding in timing at any reasonable RPM above that, no matter how much throttle input (or any at all) is given.

Variable Resistor: Really isnt ANY reason to tamper with this unless you have made drastic changes to your car. Its next to your Pressure sender, and the checkout is covered in the FSM. I have a habit of messing with them all the time. Course all my rotaries idled wonderfully. You decide.

Air mix screw: Side of the BAC, just a variable air leak that you can use to adjust the idle further.

Throttle stops: There is a throttle stop located on top of the TB by the TPS. I really try not to mess it these unless its absolutely necessary. But, someone before you probably already messed with them, thats why your idle is all jacked up to begin with.

Other things to check:

Throttle cable slack (no throttle input): You need some slack there, or the cable will start to pull the butterflys open.

AWS/thermowax: Make sure the pin is rolling out of position, allowing your car to warm idle.

Anything I forgot guys?

Now that you know who the players are, its time to DL the FSM, and make your idle adjustments!

Someone link this gentleman to the FSM!

MBTN · #11 10-14-2004, 05:34 PM

Don't let the car rev to 3k at startup. Leave it in gear (1st) when you start or blip the throttle right away. And if you're a noob and know little about rotaries, don't even THINK about putting exhaust on until you really know what you're doing.

RevvRX-7 · #12 10-14-2004, 06:50 PM

Why not do the accel warm up? Isnt that a good thing..?

D3rELiC · #13 10-14-2004, 10:00 PM

i hope you guys leave your rx7 warming a bit before taking off.

drftk1d · #14 10-14-2004, 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Rat

Someone link this gentleman to the FSM!

Linked.
http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/2nd_gen_manuals.htm

MBTN · #15 10-15-2004, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RevvRX-7

Why not do the accel warm up? Isnt that a good thing..?

Revving ANY cold motor to 3k RPM is never a good idea. However if you leave it in gear or blip the throttle the idle will drop, probably around 1500-2000 RPM. This is the engine mechanically idling on it's own. Let it warm itself up at this point for a few minutes.

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