Problem with a 4.3

PBking82 · #1 10-13-2004, 12:13 AM

Alright, this damn truck has been screwing with for awhile now. The problem started with the battery dying about once or twice a week under normal driving conditions(drive it in the day, it'd be dead the next morning or the next day. I was able to start it with a jump real quick. Then it wouldn't start with a jump at all. I would put the key in and turn it to start and all the power would shut off, I get out and hook up the jumper cables to my battery ONLY and the lights would turn back on and the battery would register around 10-11volts. I do have a remote starter in this but the problem started when the system was disconnected and is currently dissconected so i know thats not the problem. The symptoms are very inconsistant. Some days i can get to jump others I can't. Sometimes it'll start right up after being run for awhile other times it won't. This problem is driving me nuts!!!!!! Any advice from anyone on what the hell is going on would greatly be appreaciated. Thanks- PEace

Scooter2004 · #2 10-13-2004, 01:22 AM

Have you tested your alternator to see if its operating within the range?
check to see if the fuses are ok and not fried?
Perhaps Get a new battery or a battery charger?

Do u run massive subs and amp? if you do you might need a cap
any good sound store will have them last time I looked it was around $300 canadian. That is the first thing the guy told me put these in (subs and amp) then put the cap in or fry your alt

something sounds like its sucking about 30 amp draw to make your battery die like that. try the power lock selinod.

good luck

BlazerLT · #3 10-13-2004, 03:59 AM

Have your alternator tested when hot.

cobra1 · #4 10-13-2004, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PBking82

Alright, this damn truck has been screwing with for awhile now. The problem started with the battery dying about once or twice a week under normal driving conditions(drive it in the day, it'd be dead the next morning or the next day. I was able to start it with a jump real quick. Then it wouldn't start with a jump at all. I would put the key in and turn it to start and all the power would shut off, I get out and hook up the jumper cables to my battery ONLY and the lights would turn back on and the battery would register around 10-11volts. I do have a remote starter in this but the problem started when the system was disconnected and is currently dissconected so i know thats not the problem. The symptoms are very inconsistant. Some days i can get to jump others I can't. Sometimes it'll start right up after being run for awhile other times it won't. This problem is driving me nuts!!!!!! Any advice from anyone on what the hell is going on would greatly be appreaciated. Thanks- PEace

clean and tighten the battery cables, and check the positive cable where it connects to the starter.

PBking82 · #5 10-13-2004, 07:07 PM

I'm not running really massive subs. I only have two 12''s that are drawing off of a 600watt amp and i have a power cap. I put a brand new Optima Red Top in last october and AAA service tested the battery a few weeks ago when i had them jump it and he said the battery was fine. All the fuses are good too. Now what is this power-lock solnoid you speak of? Could it be broken and causing this problem? I'm almost positive its the alternator that is causing the problem but could it also be the ignition, or a combo of both? Thanks you guys know your shit. Peace

BlazerLT · #6 10-13-2004, 11:03 PM

Did this start happening when you installed the stereo system?

Sounds like you amp is not turning off and has a major parasitic drain.

Mikado14 · #7 10-13-2004, 11:08 PM

I know what parasitic oscillations are but what is a parasitic drain?

BlazerLT · #8 10-13-2004, 11:16 PM

Current draw after the engine is turned off.

Mikado14 · #9 10-13-2004, 11:21 PM

If there is current draw after the engine is off then there is a live circuit.

If you leave your headlights on after you turn your engine off, is that a parasitic drain?

BlazerLT · #10 10-13-2004, 11:25 PM

I mean a draw on the battery other than the computer memory draw etc...

Are pulling some arrogant attitude on me or something?

Mikado14 · #11 10-13-2004, 11:29 PM

No, I wanted to know where you were coming from with the word parasitic in terms of electric.

Parasitic in electrical or electronics is something that is unwanted (i.e. signal).

Quite honestly, I thought perhaps in this politically correct world that we live in, that someone had coined a new term.

That is all, no attitude, no pissing contests, so swearing, just the quest for an answer of terms for better communications.

BlazerLT · #12 10-13-2004, 11:38 PM

How does parasitic mean anything against being politically correct?

Parasitic Drain Examples:

http://www.misterfixit.com/baddiode.htm
http://service.gm.com/gmtechlink/arcv_pdf/4_02_e.pdf

Scooter2004 · #13 10-14-2004, 04:13 AM

just to answer way up on the list there when I suggested looking at the power locks as I had a truck once that did just that, dead battery in a matter of 7 hrs. Nobody @ Toytoa in Calgary could find it, then I took it to the Lethbridge and Juan that had been workin at this shop since '72 found it in like 10 min. The $3 selinoid was cooked and causing a 30 amp draw. bingo - so I am not sure how the blazer works as I have not had the door panels off. Just a guess.

Cya

:-)

cobra1 · #14 10-14-2004, 05:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PBking82

I'm not running really massive subs. I only have two 12''s that are drawing off of a 600watt amp and i have a power cap. I put a brand new Optima Red Top in last october and AAA service tested the battery a few weeks ago when i had them jump it and he said the battery was fine. All the fuses are good too. Now what is this power-lock solnoid you speak of? Could it be broken and causing this problem? I'm almost positive its the alternator that is causing the problem but could it also be the ignition, or a combo of both? Thanks you guys know your shit. Peace

again, check your battery cables. inspect all points of connection. make sure that they are all clean and tight. ive seen bad connections on battery cables cause from freaky stuff.

ive had a loose battery cable on my 2000 Blazer do what you described, i got in it after work one night, the keyless entry worked, the dome lights came on, the dash lights lit up, then just as soon as i tried to start it, everything went off. dead, no power at all. both cables were loose at the battery.

Mikado14 · #15 10-14-2004, 10:57 AM

[quote=BlazerLT]How does parasitic mean anything against being politically correct?

Parasitic Drain Examples:

http://www.misterfixit.com/baddiode.htm
http://service.gm.com/gmtechlink/arcv_pdf/4_02_e.pdf[/QUOTE]

My comment about being politically correct is that in today's world, words that meant something years ago have new meanings today. Sometimes referred to as a politically correct term or statement.

I went to your first link and could not find the word "parasitic" in the description given by the fellow talking about his alternator. Perhaps I missed it.

Parasitic, in electronics or electricity, simply means something that is unwanted. It is used in signal (ac) applications or where an AC signal is riding on a DC voltage. As an example, parasitic signals can be impressed upon the DC in an automobile from the alternator, that is what a noise suppressor does.

If you wish to call a short or a battery drain "parasitic" since it is unwanted, fine. Just so I understand your terminology.

In using these forums, the only way a person can tell you the problem is through communication. We cannot see the problem, hear the problem, smell the problem or feel the problem. All that we can go on is how well they describe it and the terms they use.

That is the root of my original question. The quest to understand.

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