power steering pressure hose leak

Illinoisboy · #1 10-09-2004, 05:40 PM

my daughter's 95 Cav was losing power steering fluid, so we got it in the garage and found a leak where the hose had worn through on the pressure side. I can get a new hose for it, got the tank fitting off, but I can't see how to remove the lower fitting- too tight for conventional tools. Any suggestions?? thanks.

public · #2 10-09-2004, 07:03 PM

2.2 litre? It is a tight squeeze but you use a long handle flare nut wrench with a piece of steet conduit on it. Once in place you slide the pipe out a little to get more leverage.

Idea #2. This is one I have used in the past many times. It is often faster and easier.
You can buy hydralic hose buy the foot along with special clamps at a heavy equipment or tractor supply shop. You cut the old hose off with garden limb trimmers. Peal away the aluminium crimps, cut of the remaining hose. You then install the new hose on the existing nipple without removing it from the car. This works on 94 and older cars with the 4 cyl engine. I do not know if you have room on a 95. I would tend to believe it is about the same. Good Luck.

Illinoisboy · #3 10-09-2004, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by public

2.2 litre? It is a tight squeeze but you use a long handle flare nut wrench with a piece of steet conduit on it. Once in place you slide the pipe out a little to get more leverage.

Idea #2. This is one I have used in the past many times. It is often faster and easier.
You can buy hydralic hose buy the foot along with special clamps at a heavy equipment or tractor supply shop. You cut the old hose off with garden limb trimmers. Peal away the aluminium crimps, cut of the remaining hose. You then install the new hose on the existing nipple without removing it from the car. This works on 94 and older cars with the 4 cyl engine. I do not know if you have room on a 95. I would tend to believe it is about the same. Good Luck.

Yes it's a 2.2, very tight. I like both suggestions-I'll try No.1 first and keep the 2nd for backup- thanks

public · #4 10-09-2004, 10:34 PM

Again, Good Luck.

Illinoisboy · #5 10-16-2004, 08:04 AM

I forgot to tell you- I ended up using a stubby metric flare wrench from below that worked great. There was just enough room for the stubby.

public · #6 10-16-2004, 03:30 PM

Cool. Glad you had enough strenght to use the stubby, they can be hard to turn.

Cav01 · #7 12-16-2009, 01:29 PM

If you're doing this yourself you need a 18mm stubbed wrench. My hand barley fight into the opening provided.

I got the old one off doe anyone have any tips for threading the new line? i can't for the life of me get it to catch, and there is only enough room to fit one hand. pleaaaase help!

J-Ri · #8 12-16-2009, 05:35 PM

Welcome to AF!

In the future, please start a new thread for a new question, this one is over 5 years old.

You just have to keep trying, it'll go eventually. Get the hose on the rack first, leaving the other end loose. You can move the hose (push/pull/twist) to change the angle of the fitting, you can also try lubricating the threads, sometimes that makes it easier. Wearing neoprene or even latex gloves makes it easier to grip the fitting once it's all greasy.

Cav01 · #9 12-16-2009, 06:23 PM

Thanks for the info, and this topic already has a lot of info in it why create a new one?

After 2 hours of messing with it i gave up. no matter what i did i couldn't get the hose to line up right. There was countless times where i thought i finally had the threads started, but it just wasn't lined up right. my arm is lined with scraps and my fingers were numb form the cold.

Now with the old hose completely disconnected i have 1 question, is it safe to call it quits and drive my car to the shop? or will this cause further damage to the pump? The shop is not even a 2min drive away.

J-Ri · #10 12-16-2009, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cav01

Thanks for the info, and this topic already has a lot of info in it why create a new one?

Now with the old hose completely disconnected i have 1 question, is it safe to call it quits and drive my car to the shop? or will this cause further damage to the pump? The shop is not even a 2min drive away.

That's explained in the "User Guidelines" which you read before becoming a member. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...uidelines.html To clarify what they mean by "clutter"; I answer several posts a day, some days even dozens. This one was resolved years ago. I read all the previous posts before discovering that I could have simply read "I can't get the pressure line fitting on the rack, does anyone have any tips for getting the threads started?"

Even starting the engine will most likely destroy the pump, the P/S fluid is all that lubricates it. Have it towed if you can't get the line on, or if you have a mechanically inclined friend maybe you can get it done for a case of beer.

Cav01 · #11 12-16-2009, 08:22 PM

had you not responded i would've attempted to drive it to the shop. Thanks for your help i cannot afford the tow so i weel go back for round two tomorrow lol. I cant believe after so much effort the only thing holding me back is getting the damn threads to line up. Then again im tryign to do this with just enough clearance to squeeze my hand through and completely blind :/

J-Ri · #12 12-16-2009, 09:20 PM

You're welcome, however, I responded too quickly (hadn't time to think

). While turning the pump will destroy it, if this is the 2.2l or an earlier "quad 4" (has a belt that runs off the camshaft that turns the pump), you can simply remove the belt and it'll be OK to run. For the 2.2 the water pump won't turn, but in this cold and for only 2 min you should be OK. For the 2.3/2.4, the water pump is timing chain driven. With the 2.2 you will be limited by your battery (alt. won't be spinning either), so if it's not in good shape, you could be stranded. If you've got a 2.4 with the pump driven directly off the camshaft, there's no way around it, as removing the pump will let oil spray everywhere.

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