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#1
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Contact Points?
I have an 89 Chevy C1500 HD and im just wondering if it uses contact points or not. I heard they stoped using them in the early 80's, but it wont go WOT and just falls on its face when I try anything more than 1/4 throttle from a stop or idle. I replaced the cap, plugs, and other misc. parts and it still does it so im thinking of taking the distributer apart and checking that, but if it doesn't have contact points I don't wanna take it all apart and find out after all that work haha. Thanks.
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![]() 89 Chevy C1500 - Over 305,000 miles on her but still going strong. Cut off cat/straight pipe. Flo-Pro muffler. (Flowmaster soon) Dual 3" tips. custom intake. chrome valve covers. uhhh and im poor so thats all haha. Friggin truck costs more to keep alive than I do. (4ishMPG no joke) Wait, let me get this straight...Your honda has 1.6 liters, but my bottle of Mountain Dew has 2!? |
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#2
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You have a HEI distributor (I think), I'm trying to remember how those are set up, it's been awhile since I've worked on a pre-1996 truck. Ok it's got a coil pac and solid state spark module (takes the place of breaker points) inside distributor. Is your dist. cap larger than standard with brass/metalic prongs (where plug wires snap on) around the outside edge of cap? I'm not sure about 89, is it fuel injected or hav a ECM? A dead HEI dist is usally just the soild state module (inside cap) failure. And will leave you dead (no start, no run). Your problem sounds like lack of fuel volume at over 1/4 throttle. Could be as easy as change inline filter. But like I said, I'm not sure what changes (if any) where made in 1988, 89 C/K truck line.
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#3
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Re: Contact Points?
i would replace the fuel filter first if it hasn't been changed in awhile. then if that doesn't work then u should check the egr valve. to check this disconnect the vacuum line, push the diaphram up(with your finger), place your finger over the hole where the vacuum line was and if the egr valve is good the diaphram shouldn't move.
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[size=5]
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#4
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I changed the oil and filter like a month ago. Im thinking of checking the fuel pump, but dont feel like it unless i have to. I know what an EGR is and everytyhing, but for the life of me I cant find it on the truck. I have a feeling its the timing, fuel pump, EGR or all three. What do you think the reason for not being able to go into first gear manually, and for the clunking and bogging or whatever at idle and stop. It doesnt do it all the time, but about 90% of it i think. Its been driving me nuts cuz there is obviously something wrong with it, but I dont know what to do bout it. thanks.
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![]() 89 Chevy C1500 - Over 305,000 miles on her but still going strong. Cut off cat/straight pipe. Flo-Pro muffler. (Flowmaster soon) Dual 3" tips. custom intake. chrome valve covers. uhhh and im poor so thats all haha. Friggin truck costs more to keep alive than I do. (4ishMPG no joke) Wait, let me get this straight...Your honda has 1.6 liters, but my bottle of Mountain Dew has 2!? |
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#5
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Re: Contact Points?
this does not have the hei ignition. the distributor is totally seperate of the coil. there are no contact points, there is an electronic module.
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Matthew Brough ![]() 1997 Geo Prizm -- 301,000 miles 2000 Honda Accord -- 225,000 miles 2004 GMC Yukon XL -- 223,000 miles 1987 Jeep Comanche -- 116,000 miles |
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#6
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Re: Contact Points?
Check your fuel pressure.
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#7
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Re: Re: Contact Points?
Quote:
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#8
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Re: Contact Points?
click on this site and it'll show you the location of the egr valve
http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl447a-lib.htm as for the clunking, bogging and the inability to down shift to first. your check engine light should have come on by now and the codes stored in there could help find the problem better. it kind of sounds like you might have a combination of problems. if your light is on then click on the site below to help find out what it is. http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/ if the light isn't on then: 1. the clunking and bogging sound like it has timing problems. i would check the vacuum lines to make sure they're all connected and have no cuts or cracks. then i would check spark plug wires look for correct firing order. then i would check the intial timing to make sure it was right. if it's a 1990 5.0 or 5.7 then intial timing should be 0 degrees. check out these things and see what you find.
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[size=5]
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#9
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Re: Contact Points?
Here's a little diddy I learned almost 40 years ago:
It it's missin', it's ignition; Hesitation, carburaetion! If it won't take WOT, you have fuel delivery problems. At least, that would be the first on the list. |
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#10
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Re: Contact Points?
I believe they changed in 1987-88. My 88 has the different cap and coil. My Chilton just calls it Distributor ignition. It says the system consists of the distributo, Hall Evect switch (camshaft position sensor), Ignition coil, secondary wires, spark plugs, knock sensor, and the crankshaft position sensor.
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Matthew Brough ![]() 1997 Geo Prizm -- 301,000 miles 2000 Honda Accord -- 225,000 miles 2004 GMC Yukon XL -- 223,000 miles 1987 Jeep Comanche -- 116,000 miles |
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#11
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Re: Contact Points?
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You have to drop the fuel tank to change and put new lines on. Or, unbolt the box from the chassie and access it from there. Have the fuel pressure checked first, and yes it is electronic dist.( no points). Fuel filter is on drivers side, inside frame, about under seat. AND REMEMBER!!! BE CARFUL WHEN MESSING WITH FUEL !!!! NO LIGHT BULB TROUBLE LIGHTS THAT CAN BREAK AND EXSPLODE THE FUMES ! NO SMOKING, THE FUMES FROM THAT OPEN TANK CAN LINGER FOR A LONG TIME. |
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#12
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AND REMEMBER!!!
BE CARFUL WHEN MESSING WITH FUEL !!!! NO LIGHT BULB TROUBLE LIGHTS THAT CAN BREAK AND EXSPLODE THE FUMES ! NO SMOKING, THE FUMES FROM THAT OPEN TANK CAN LINGER FOR A LONG TIME OK Mr. saftey dad! .....I'm just kiddin please dont take that personaly, I just had to say that. |
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#13
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Re: Contact Points?
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Just thought I would through that in from exsperience from 35 years ago... he's no longer with us. Maybe I'm a little more cautious in my old age eh! Not taken personnally
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#14
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A little bit of fumes in the garage can be fun for all the kids! nah i wouldnt do that. I have done vacuum, compression, like all the tests and stuff i could do with what i have and they were all fine. I think the fuel pump and timing are the only things i know that should be fixed. I think its been the same fuel pump for the last 270kish miles anyways...would that make my mileage so bad too? Ill get a new pump and borrow the neighbors timing gun next weekend. BTW I dont get a check engine light or any codes.
__________________
![]() 89 Chevy C1500 - Over 305,000 miles on her but still going strong. Cut off cat/straight pipe. Flo-Pro muffler. (Flowmaster soon) Dual 3" tips. custom intake. chrome valve covers. uhhh and im poor so thats all haha. Friggin truck costs more to keep alive than I do. (4ishMPG no joke) Wait, let me get this straight...Your honda has 1.6 liters, but my bottle of Mountain Dew has 2!? |
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#15
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Well my young friend, you have first generation ECM. Not exactly a perfect unit. they still aren't. Does anyone know if there is even a code for fuel delivery on OBD 1?
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