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  #1  
Old 10-07-2004, 09:07 PM
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how to stop binding AWD

I bet this is a widely known problem with these things... But my parents 2000 AWD Safari totally binds up when turning. You can't even pull into a parking spot without the clunk...clunk...clunk. Are there ANY known remedies for this? I've heard replacing the fluid in the front differential helps. Is this true?
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Old 10-07-2004, 09:52 PM
SeaBuzz SeaBuzz is offline
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Thumbs up binding

yes, I replaced all front, rear, and tranfor case with synthetic. it worked.
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Old 10-07-2004, 10:05 PM
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Re: how to stop binding AWD

What grade synthetic did you use? Are the fill/ drain plugs easy to work with?
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Old 10-08-2004, 09:36 PM
SeaBuzz SeaBuzz is offline
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the front and the tranfer case have drains, but the rear has to be pumped out. i did it using ramps. no problems. I dont remember the grade but it was factory grade.
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Old 10-10-2004, 12:31 AM
trannyman52 trannyman52 is offline
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GM also sells a limited slip additive that may help,,,,dealerships should stock it!!!
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Old 10-27-2004, 09:57 AM
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Re: how to stop binding AWD

How can I tell if I have limited slip?
Would the front differential ever require limited slip?
The transfer case takes transmission fluid, correct?
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Old 11-05-2004, 09:42 PM
Tedybear Tedybear is offline
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I have a 2002 astro van with the same issue just starting out. According to the dealership that does most of the work on the van? They state in my case it would be needed to drain the fluid from the transfer case and refill it with the syn. fluid. The fluid runs about $25-$35 a quart and is some "magic" mixture. According to them the only cure is to drain & refill with new fluid..drive the van around for a while and see if it cures the locking up clutch pack...if not then repeat the process again to see if enough of the crud gets drained out with the fluid to free the clutch pack up. If it does'ent work on the 2nd time? I've been told the transfer case would have to be torn down and rebuilt or replaced.

Not quite great news, but I was warned about the fluid type used..some shops will dump in the fluid, being syn. But there's something unique about this system that needs fluid that runs about 30 bucks a quart??

I'm planning on taking mine in soon to have this done, this van has already cost the company I work for about $2500.00 in repairs over the last 3 months.

S-
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Old 11-05-2004, 10:34 PM
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Re: how to stop binding AWD

Thanks for the info, but could anyone verify what this magical synthetic transfer case fluid is? I have a 4x4 gmc jimmy, and it binds a little bit when turning, but not nearly as bad as the van.

What were the $2500 in repairs? - just curious
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Old 11-05-2004, 11:38 PM
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Re: how to stop binding AWD

Let's see...about $2500 and counting:
Basic maintence first:

4 tires M/Bal. w stems
4 wheel brake job w. front rotors
both idler arms replaced
rear pinion seal replaced
--
extras:
haveing the rear diff blow out all 4 bearings due to the shop over tighting the pinion nut...about $585.00 in repairs
The fuel tank pressure sensor failing..about $275 most in labor for dropping the tank.
Blown front left wheel bearing..$975 for the hub/bearing assy..$85.00 to install the part...

Now I have a problem with the door locks just as people have posted here as well LOL...and the Neutral saftey switch needs replacement (cold weather it mis-reports the trannie shift posistion..all built in one unit)

I'm not sure exactly what the fluid is..about $30 a quart seems very pricy? The shop stated there should be a "tag" attached to the transfer case stateing the fluid type needed.. If I can find the name of that fluid for the transfer case I'll post it for ya.

All Best-
S
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Old 11-10-2004, 10:59 AM
phrog phrog is offline
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Wink Magic transfer case fluid

The magic transfer fluid you all are looking for is the blue Auto Track II fluid sold by Chevrolet dealers approx $4.99 per quart. I got mine at Westfall GMC in Kansas City Mo BTW Truck centers are about 10% cheaper than car dealers.
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Old 11-10-2004, 05:17 PM
Tedybear Tedybear is offline
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Re: how to stop binding AWD

Makes me wonder how the dealership up here wound up givin' me a quote for about 30.00 a quart then. I think he was probably pulling the number out of his fanny in that case. I'll research it a bit more with the other dealerships in the area. The one that normally does the work only charges 55.00 hr for labor (cheapest in the area) but if they are padding down the parts? We'll have a little conversation.. (considering the company I work for has dropped about $1200 in repairs so far at that shop)

Thanks for the information!!
All best-
S-
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  #12  
Old 11-10-2004, 10:13 PM
trannyman52 trannyman52 is offline
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the transfer-case has an internal slip clutch which AIN'T slippen so good,,,if the additive does not improve the situation,,the t-c may need
to be looked at
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Old 12-07-2004, 06:16 AM
holymix holymix is offline
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you should also check your cv shaft or u joints at the wheel since you said that you hear clunk clunk. ujoint if it is freezing up will do it or cv if the boot is bad and the joint is now dry and dirty it will also they are inbetween the pumkin and the wheels. God bless. and good luck.
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Old 12-11-2004, 02:53 PM
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Re: how to stop binding AWD

If you can feel the vehicle lifting and falling in turns, it is almost for sure the U/CV joints. I had that problem in my truck, it eventually got so bad it would lift the truck a couple inches in sharp turns
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Old 12-11-2004, 06:43 PM
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Re: how to stop binding AWD

Transfer case was serviced...flushed it out once...drove it around for a few...flushed it out a 2nd time to get anything missed the first time out. It's been doing great so far. The intermid. "Bucking" at 55-65mph under light accel has'ent returned yet. Also the "bucking" under accel from 25-45's pretty much gone. Given the fact I'm in upstate/central NY? We'll see how it holds up under all the snow we normally get.

S-
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