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#1
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Dude WTF!
So yeah, my car started knocking again, so I think to myself that some how a rod bearing already went bad somehow. I pull out the trusty stehoscope and listen to her heart beat, and I notice that sound is coming from the center of the block.
Last night I dropped the oil pan and took a look see. the pan was clean of shavings for the most part, There were some micro shavings from everything bearking in and what not, and there were some bigger chunks, however I think those some how snuck past me in the rebuild. So anyway, I pull of the big hickey ma jigger that holds the crank in place. All of the crank bearings look good, next step is the rob bearings, grab on to the rod caps and see if any have play, nope, all of those bearings are good too, check the thrust bearings, those are cool too. So I put it all back together even more confused than ever! Compression is running about 240-245 on all 4 cyl., but I am running extremly rich and burning oil, due to the fact that I didn't think to change the valve stem seals when I replaced those.
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90- crx si w/ a D16a Vtec and a few goodies, oh and 60k miles on it heh |
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#2
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Re: Dude WTF!
oil pump?
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Travis
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#3
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Re: Dude WTF!
get yourself a oil pressure gauge and see how much psi your car is kicking. If I were you just give your new motor a couple more oil changes every 500 miles and see if that helps at all.
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-1991 Civic Si (Sold) -1990 Accord EX(Sold) -2000 Civic Hatch -1998 Lexus SC300 ![]() Click here to see my Shoe! |
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#4
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Re: Dude WTF!
Quote:
__________________
-1991 Civic Si (Sold) -1990 Accord EX(Sold) -2000 Civic Hatch -1998 Lexus SC300 ![]() Click here to see my Shoe! |
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#5
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Re: Dude WTF!
maby someones at the door?
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#6
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Re: Dude WTF!
here's the deal, I have about a 9.9:1 comp. ratio. I was running good old dyno Oil 10w 30 for break-in and it was burning, then I switched to Castrol GTX, which is a semi syn. at just over 200 miles, the rings are seated real nice as noted by the compression.
I know why its burning it, it's caused by the valve stem seals, I should have changed those out when I put in new valves, but I totally didn't think of them. but yeah the oil pressure gauge does sound like a good idea, it could be the oil pump...
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90- crx si w/ a D16a Vtec and a few goodies, oh and 60k miles on it heh |
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#7
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Re: Dude WTF!
Oh yeah, my Vtec still clicks on though... so I dunno about oil pressure being a culprit.
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90- crx si w/ a D16a Vtec and a few goodies, oh and 60k miles on it heh |
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#8
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Re: Dude WTF!
Aight I just took it out for a quick spin, and she got a whole lot worse real quick like, it has to be a damned rod bearing again! Guess I get to pull the oil pan off again tonight... yay
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90- crx si w/ a D16a Vtec and a few goodies, oh and 60k miles on it heh |
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#9
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Re: Dude WTF!
found my problem, bad rod bearing already, there must have been a burr or something on that crank shaft when I put it together and it destroyed the number 3 rod bearing...
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90- crx si w/ a D16a Vtec and a few goodies, oh and 60k miles on it heh |
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#10
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Re: Dude WTF!
Damn man, I hope you get everything straightened out! It is such a relief to finally find out what's going on! I'm having problems with my cooling system getting real hot and building up a lot of pressure and I think it leaks out and stuff.
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#11
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Re: Dude WTF!
there air in the system, and is your thermostat opening?
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90- crx si w/ a D16a Vtec and a few goodies, oh and 60k miles on it heh |
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#12
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Re: Dude WTF!
well, i donno about the air, how would i know either one? it doesn't over heat untill it's just lost enough fluid
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#13
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Re: Dude WTF!
no luck for you at all
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SOLD!
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#14
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Re: Re: Dude WTF!
Quote:
There is a bleeder valve on the water outlet on the top hose. You should crack that open while your filling it (like after a coolant change or massive loss). Once coolant starts coming out of the bleeder valve the system should be free of air. Start the car with the heater knob on hot and cap off (top off as necessary). After a while the coolant level will rise and you should then cap the radiatior. GL |
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#15
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Re: Re: Dude WTF!
Quote:
Blown head gasket?
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