Running Poorly.

[karquest]

I have a 89 Buick Regal with a few frustrating problems. When letting off on the accelerator the car "bucks" and seems to run poorly. When I accelerate it goes away. The car will not idle properly when in gear it will stall. All problems will go away when you push down on the pedel. I have replaced O2 sensor and fuel filter. The ECM is giving no codes.Sometimes it will idle very high after starting or after putting into n or park.

Second problem is the analog odometer. I have tried replacing it with no luck. Please help.

[LowriderS10]

I just bought a 89 regal and it was doing th same thing. I changed the plugs and thats when I discovered there was a plug wire not all the way on the plug. Seems to have fixed the problem. The odometer problem i still have even after I changed the dash. It did fix the gas gauge though. Hope this helped a little bit, Gary

[sierrap615]

what is idle RPM in park and in drive?

[public]

Check your Torque Converter Clutch solenoid. Simply unplug it and test drive. Good Luck

[JoePurdue]

Hey public,

I am having a similar problem with my transmission, except it is alot worse. Where is the plug for the TC clutch solenoid? Is it the one with the 5 (6?) large wires coming from it that is easily accessible, or is it a different one? Also, what should I look/listen for during the test drive after it has been disconnected?

Thanks all,
JP

[public]

If you have the four speed tranny you cannot unplug this. I say this because they have the big plug with 5-6 wires.

The TCC plug is on the front of the side of the tranny on the drivers side. If you have a plug in this area with 2 wires that is it.

[umina]

This could also be a vacuum problem. I had a 87 T-bird that did the exact same thing. Turns out I had a vacuum line that had cracked. It connected to sensor that adjusts idle and fuel mixture for air density (altitude), MAF I think?? I took it to a shop cause I couldn't find the source of the leak. They charged me 45 bucks to hunt down the leak and replace the hose. Car ran fine for 3 more years after that till I sold it.

[JoePurdue]

Thanks for the replies. Concerning my bucking problem, which has slowly, but steadily, gotten worse:

My Check Engine light finally started coming on to let me know what the hell is going on. It was code 32, EGR valve. My Chilton's said to check the vacuum to the unit then the valve itself, which I hadn't previously considered to be the cause of the bucking. The vacuum from the throttle body measured fine, and if I had known what to look for by putting vacuum on the EGR valve, I wouldn't have busted my knuckles removing it.

But anyway, I went to one of the OEMs website which had directions for testing the EGR, including checking its filter. It said to apply 10" vacuum and see if will hold the diaphram up. Mine wouldn't even pull it up 1mm. So then I did my own reverse-test: pushed the diaphram all the way up with my fingers and then plugged the vacuum port to see if it would hold the diaphram up. Nope.

At least now I know how to test one when I go to the junk yard this weekend without pulling it off first, because there's no way I'm paying $150 for a new one!

Hope this helps someone,
JP