Well, I got 4000 dollars and plans for 11's-10's

[Savior1974]

Well, Internet business is taking off and I got about 4000 to spend on mods for my gsx. What should I get for my plans? BTW I think my Act 2600 is starting to slip!!!! Does that mean I need a new clutch, or could it just be fluid is low. I don't wanna buy another

Also I'm having trouble thinking of what turbo to get. Guys make my decision for me. Act like its your 4000. What would you get for a GSX?

[scottsee]

wow, thats hard to say. i personaly would shoot for maybe 12's. that seems more realistic. im sure it might be possable to get in the 11's, but like stated above, it might not be the funnest thing to drive around town.

whatever you get, dont forget dsmlink, and a wideband. check out the one listed in the stickies on dsmtuners fourms in the Tunning section.

[guitarXgeek]

If you're bent on 11's, but still want a fairly reliable and very streetable turbo, look into the Forced Performance Green turbo. It's a little expensive, but you have $4000 to work with, so I don't think it will be a problem . I'd also suggest finding a 95' eprom ecu and getting dsmlink w/ wideband o2 for tuning. That in itself is a deadly combination for tuning, and is possibly the best out there for us besides a full standalone like aem ems. Also, an effecient front mount will serve you well. Look for a spearco core (or something that is bar-and-plate, not tube-and-fin), and try to do custom piping if you want. By then you might want to invest in possibly a sheetmetal intake manifold, and a larger throttle body. Then of course there are the duh's like fuel pump, injectors, exhaust/porting, etc.

If you spent your money right, then you should be in the low 12's and high 11's pretty easily and have a little money left over for other things


P.S. - Congrats on the business, glad it's all working well for you!

[kjewer1]

For 10s you need at least a Red or other 60-1 sized turbo, if this is not a gutted race car. You dont need a standalone, many people are runing 10s on more convetional systems. 1g DSMlink would be ideal, IMO. PErsonally, skip the bolt on turbos and go full garett if you really are serious about 10s. The AGP kit is a good way to go, and its what I run now. Changing wheels, housings, or whole turbos is a piece of cake and much cheaper than the bolt on stuff (my massive turbo is like 700 bucks ) This has been done on stock interals, but I dont recomend it. So it would break down like this.

Built motor - 2000
AGP turbo kit - 2000
built tranny - 2000
roll cage and harnesses - 1000
DSMlink and injectors - 1000
clutch and SFI flywheel - 900-1000
FMIC - 1000


Thats a VERY rough estimate and millions of little things are left out, but you can see how short your 4000 dollars looks. I would upgrade gradually, but by the part that makes sense for your goals so you dont have to buy twice. For example, start by going for 12s, but dont get a 16g With a completely gutted race-only car though you can run 10s with a stock 6 bolt and a 20g/AFC type setup, lol All depends on how you want to use the car.

[BoostedSpyder]

20g or at least EVO 16g, FMIC, 660 injectors, SAFC2, Fuel Pump, FPR.

that should suck up the dough pretty good and have you running like a virgin in a whorehouse

[drdisque]

first thing on my list would be Quaife differential so that you don't fall flat on your face first time you try to take this powerful new setup to the track

[BoostedSpyder]

get one of those when you blow the factory diff...

[kjewer1]

The fancy center diffs all explode when drag racing with any decent power. Quaife dropped thier warranty on the DSM center diffs for a reason...

[JoeWagon]

I'm looking at about 5000 for a reasonable EVO 16g setup, and that's maybe high 12's at this elevation. 10's is really damn fast.

[Savior1974]

Yeah, I see...... So now I dicided to just stick with 12's. I'm looking into getting a 20g (50trim) possibly but I need to know how streetable it is. Plus, What are the supporting mods to have me running strong. I heard that I'll need fuel pump, fuel injectors, Dsm Link, and.... that all I know really. Thans alot for the posts guys.

[RiceRocket18]

damn!... you can first start off by giving me 2k .

[joemathews]

Originally Posted by JoeWagon

I'm looking at about 5000 for a reasonable EVO 16g setup, and that's maybe high 12's at this elevation. 10's is really damn fast.

Don't forget we all don't drag on top of Mt. McKinley, Joe . Buying used parts with that $5k (not ones that are going to take a shit on you, but a used fmic, custom piping, maybe fuel mods, cams, etc.) you should easily be in the low 12s if not 11s on a 20g, depending on how good you are at tuning and driving.

But then again if you're at JoeWagon's elevation, you'll still be running 13s !

[JoeWagon]

I'm in colorado now, but yeah same deal. If you are Kevin, you can run 12's on a 14b, and some people can't do it on 16g's. Especially here. Personally I really can't decide what I want for my car, but one option is 16g and keep it mostly reliable. There are more parts than people think. DSMlink and a big fuel system really kicks up the price for me. Clutch, short shifter, motor mounts, MAFt... it adds up.

The fastest EVO 16g's are low 12's without nitrous if I can remember correctly.

[2of9]

yeah, Fastest Evo 16gs are low 12s w/o nitrous...who needs nitrous? ill probably get nitrous when i get a 20g turbo...

[JoeWagon]

Kevin has even said "My car was the most fun with the 16g" You can push 30lbs/min airflow with a 14b possibly, or 40lbs/min with an EVO 16g. Anything bigger than that is bigger fuel, more broken parts.. etc.

I haven't decided if I want to go big or not yet.. Everyone has to decide for themselves.