How well does spray dynamat work?

[Passivality]

curious on how well spray dynamat works?

[Haibane]

edead v3 is better, and it is blue lol. Actually they have different application.

Here is a quote from vallari
"Sound deadening is nothing new to the world of audio. Car or Home for that matter. There seems to be confusion about it now though.

The world of audio is being bombarded and taken over by marketing. And sound deadening for example has become a interesting point of conversation. Some companies are claiming to be the solution for low SPL, any panel resonance, lowering the internal temperature of your vehicle, or any vehicle for that matter. According to the marking boys not only can sound deadening make your car car cooler, more efficient, more comfortable and on top of that.

Sure. Sound deadening can do a lot of things. I think some important things to understand is correct installation, implementation and technique can result in some, if not all of the following things. Let's take a look at those things and how the benefits are achieved without the marketing bull shit helping us out.

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Lower Door Panel Vibrations. & Greater Midbass Response In your doors. Advantages to lower panel vibrations. When lowering panel vibrations the obvious goal here is to reduce vibration. By adding weight. Think about it. Something heavier(thicker) is harder to vibrate. The goal here is increasing weight makes a panel, say for a example a panel directly behind a loudspeaker in your door, harder to vibrate. A stiffer enclosure in a sense results in improved midbass response for this type of frequency range (when used in your doors).

How to achieve this. Adding mass to your door is not difficult really at all. You just put it on. And it's done really. What type of material to use to 'add weight' is now the question. You have two options in this case. Mat, or liquid. Foam is not so much a great option in this case. Your looking for thin, space effective ways to add mass, not fill space, or support a panel.

Some things to keep in mind when chosing Mat vs. Liquid For this Application. If your working with fairly flat doors. You might be able to get away with the mat option. People have for years past, and will for years future. However if your door isn't a singular flat panel and has lot of valleys in it. You may considering going the liquid route. Liquid is very good in this application becuase it can get into those small places where mat cannot. However. It's strongly suggested you consider if your door also has large openings, you may want to cover. Liquid can not create a seal over a hole very large in diameter.

My Suggestion for tackling deadening doors. Use 1-2 layers of mat on the flat surfaces of your door panel. Do not use the mat in the small valleys or dips in your door panel where it does not easily go. Then use another 1-3 layers of liquid product over the top of your mat.

Why is this a good option and what does this plan of attack gain you? The mat layers provide a great basis for weight. Howver the mat products on the market, and in general simply lack versatility. Using the mat gets you quick, and easy weight on flat parts of your door panel. Then using the liquid over the top of the mat also gains you a lot of things. It seals up the door (liquid polymer based deadeners are normally waterproof) protecting the not only your car, but your aspuahlt based mats from the elements and increasing overall lifeline of the mat product. It also acts as a secondary skin for the door. It gets into every single knick and cranny you could push paint into. You can get it everywhere it needs to go (which is something mat isn't capable of doing).

How Much Deadening do you need to do this?
2 Door cars in the style I suggest. Half a gallon of Liquid, and 20 Sq. ft. of Mat.
4 Door cars in the same style. A gallon of Liquid and 40sq. ft. of Mat.

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Quieter ride / Lowering Road Noise - Well. Think about it. You make your car heavier. The doors, floors, and panels thicker it's harder for sound to escape. It's a no brainer. Correctly insulating your car with any sound deadening is just like insulating your house. A concrete layer would be best to never hear your neighbors but realistically the car environment just doesn't work well with concrete and retaining usability. The secret to a quieter ride. Installation and consistency. Cover everything

How to achieve this. Again. Your goal is to add mass, weight, or physical barrier to your vehicles shell, or frame. With this option the best way to do it. Is literally strip your cover from top to bottom and cover it cover it cover it. Mat or Liquid will also both work in this instance. I wouldn't use foam for this general section or application just yet.

Some things to keep in mind when chosing Mat vs. Liquid For this Application You can use either. My personal preference for this specific application is just to use liquid sound deadening product. I'm sure you say why. Well I'll tell you. Liquid polymer based sound deadening doesn't break away, or down the same way a asphualt based mat product does. It lasts longer. Plain and simple. When you do this your making a permanent change to your car and using tons of sound deadening. Your floor will heat up, as will your roof which will cuase in this case a direct absorbant path for that mat. In other words. When it gets hot, you've got so much asphualt in your car it's going to smell like a highway no matter what you do inside it. The liquid option doesn't change smell with temperature & doesn't develop one. It handles heat better and in this in particular case I'd grab a paint brush or undercoating gun and just cover the entire inside of the vehicle. I wouldn't waste my time with mat.

My Suggestion for tackling road noise inside your cabin. Grab your favorite liquid deadener and start covering all the metal you see. Put 3-5 layers on. And your car will sound like a tomb when you shut the doors (given you also do the above).

Why is this a good way to do it? As outlined above. Mat breaks away. It stinks and one other strange thing about it is mat is asphualt. Asphualt burns quite well. Should the strange and odd thing happen your car ever gets on fire your driving around a fireball. However some of the new latex / polymer based deadeners are actually self extinguishing. Meaning more or less. They don't catch on fire the same way. And when exposed to intense extreme heat they turn into a dust consistency, not a fireball. Liquid in this case not only protects you, but it's easier on the install, has great results, and will last longer up to the rigors of being installed on the floor, and on the cieling as well.

How much deadening do you need to do this?
Small Cars - 1 Gallon for just the floor, 2 gallons for everything.
Decent Sized Cars - 1.5 Gallons for the floor, about 3 gallons for everything.

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Trunk Rattle - This is probably one of the most common reasons buy sound deadening for their cars. The o-so-common trunk rattle. Yes. Sound deadening can fix this. No one is yanking your chain here. But there are some things to deduct before deciding not only what needs to be deadened, but how to go about it. You don't want your trunk lid hopping around. Since it's not a door, but normally horizontal it's sitting, not hanging which can create some problems.

How to achieve good results here. The goal here is not only to increase mass, but increase structural support inside the trunk lid. When your hearing your trunk vibrate it's not always just the panels vibrating, but those panels rubbing against or vibrating against each other.

Some things to keep in mind when chosing Mat vs. Liquid For this Application The biggest question to ask yourself is what is having a problem. As noted above one major issue is the interior panels of your trunk lid vibrating against each other and sound like shit, or poo you could say. The solution isn't mat or liquid at this point but expanding foam. Your panels are doing this in this instance becuase they aren't stucturally re-infornced and are too thin for much of anything. So instead of just adding mass, your creating a support system for the trunk pieces. What I'm refferring to is filling the INSIDE of the trunk lid literally with foam to create this support system, not just spray foam on the lid. Your going to put it INSIDE it, not just on it. Adding mat or liquid from there on out is up to you although I suggest liquid as if your covering any expanding foam you'll notice the expanding foam is not only porous but uneven. Liquid will adhere to the different shape effictivly. Mat will not.

My Suggestion for tackling horrible trunk rattle. Head to your local lowes, home depot, Wal-Mart, or otherwise and grab the closest bottle of Great Stuff expanding foam, with the red top. Grab the 2x expanding foam, not the 3x stuff. The 3x stuff is hard to work with, and messier than even the 2x stuff.

Why is this a good way to do it? Your trunk lid is helf up by support bars, torsion bars, hydrualic bars. To really DEADEN the lid using mat or liquid your going to need to use a obscene amount of either. We're talking 40-50lbs of mass added to your trunk lid. It's hard on your car, not only on it's shape, but on the support beams. That and do you REALLY want to have to open a 40lb trunk lid everytime you get grocerys? I hope not. Expanding foam is a lightweight uses. In this case it's the premuim alternative and really is the better option for stopping those nasty trunk rattles.

How much deadening do you need to do this?
Normal Sized trunk lids - 1 Can Should do the trick of expanding foam.
Overkill or large lids - 2 Cans of expanding foam.

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Interior Panel Vibration When I refer to Interior panel vibration I am referring namely to the plastic pieces in your vehicle. The plastic pieces as in your pillars, or cosmetic finishing items that aren't your door panels, flooring or seats. In rear seats the plastic panel you put your arm on in a 2 door car or what covers the tire well. These interior panels can shake, hum, vibrate and get downright annoying.

How to achieve good results here. The goal here is simple. Stop the items from vibrating. Believe it or not this is one of the more difficult takes. If you put too much on. You can't get the panel back on, if you don't put enough on or in the wrong places you won't see any benefit. But the ultimate goal is you want to make the panel heavier.

Some things to keep in mind when chosing Mat vs. Liquid For this Application. If your applying liquid to a smooth plastic piece you might want to ruff up the rear side of the panel with some sandpaper or something like it. It's smooth and may be difficult to adhere to depending on the paint. If your using mat product make your not covering up the clips, or adding deadening where the panel needs to fit snugly. You'll end up warping the panel and in the end ruining it as a whole.

My Suggestion for tackling road Interior Panel Vibration. Use whatever works and is avaliable only where problem areas occur. Most of all. USE YOUR HEAD. Don't gob on liquid or put 50 layers of may on it anywhere. You won't get the panel back on. Remove the clips when your doing this (but obviously put them back on before installing the door) from the plastic panels. You want to make sure those clips stay in as good as condition as possible not to mention clean. This is not a requirement just a suggestion that can't hurt even though most of us will never do it. I normally start with small strips of mat, use 1 layer, and then add 2-3 layers of liquid where I think it needs it. Kind of like the application in the door it acts to seal it in.

This is a good way to do it becuase your just taking it slow. Adding it piece by piece on the panels that have the problems. You can't really add enough mass for the panel not to go back on right but you CAN add too much in a specification location or covering clips.

How much deadening do you need to do this?
Small - Meduim cars - 1 Gallon of liquid, 20sq ft of Mat.
Large - 1.5 Gallons of liquid, 30sq ft. of Mat.

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So I think what's the real reason you guys get fed all this BS about sound deadening without any direction on how to USE IT? Well. It's the american way. Find something cheap to manufacture, market the shit out of it. And make a killing. You got to give these boys credit, they certainly made a interesting arguement. Shit like this is the reason when you go Dynamat / Dynamic controls web site you click on the University link only to see a pop up notifying you the section is for dealers only.

This does not need to serve as a resource on the only way to do. But maybe just a general guidline or recommendation on a good way to do this. This does not mean this is the ONLY way to do it. It is just our take on it. If nothing else you can always take your vehicle to a proffessional installer and have work done on the vehicle.

My estimates on how much you need are just that. If all else fails ask the people you are buying from how much you need for your specific car and if they know what they are doing. They will take care of the rest.

Educate the people selling it. On how to sell it. remove the end user from understanding what they are doing and being fed overpriced bull shit. Hopefully you got something out of this. I wrote it becuase it pissed me off I couldn't find some information regarding helping a customer out with what was best for him without typing a huge e-mail. So I typed it, and pasted it here.

Some products to look into on the net ;
Dynamat / Dynamic Control - Click here - They are always there. The problem. maybe a little TOOO expensive for me or any of my customers.
B-Quiet / Brown Bread - Click Here - Pretty good customer reactions from what I understand and everything looks good.
Elemental Designs / eDead - Click Here - Pretty straightforward. Offers a no BS approach. Both mat and liquid, nothing else fancy. Cheapest avaliable I can find. My favore'd option.
Cascade - Click Here I've never used it. But I know it's there.

Bottom Line. The technology is coming from the mixers, and the chemists not the people selling it. Screw the name brand right in the wazoo and get what works for you.

Just my 2 cents on account of ignorance."