Camaro will not start or crank. Please help.

[vettespeed]

Put key in, turn to run position and get power to headlights, interior, what sounds like the fuel pump etc etc. After about 10 seconds abs light and security light (which is solid, not blinking) turn off.

Turn key forward, ABS light comes back on, but no start.

Car had an alarm aftermarket. I just finished pulling it out. All wires are as they should be. With alarm out, exact same symptoms.

Don't think it is VATS since security light goes off. Also If I disconnect the VATS wiring under the column the security light blinks as it should. Tested the key it is a number 4 which has a acceptable range of resistance from 850-942 I tested the wires at the harness and got a 883 which tells me the wires are good. The blinking light tells me the VATS module should be good.

Cleaned plenty of corosion off of the positive terminal of the Neverstart.

Battery, alt, and starter are less than two weeks old.

If there is a starter relay I can not find it.

Tried starting in neutral also.

Also tried starting with a battery booster. One of the big ones on wheels, nothing happened. I can't get to the starter to try and arc it since all my jackstands are on my vette for my tranny swap.

Had key tested at dealership they said it was a number 4. I tested it at my VATS harness and got an acceptable reading according to the VATS chart.

[ponchonutty]

Well, if you indeed checked things out and all is OK with the VATS then you have something else going on here. Have you verified that you have 12v on the yellow wire (or might be purple) under the dash while cranking?

[vettespeed]

no i haven't what is the problem if i don't have power there.

[FormulaLT1]

Try grounding terminal a - B while cranking the ignition. If your fans don't click on and your Service engine doesn't flash its a PCM problem

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

Well, if you indeed checked things out and all is OK with the VATS then you have something else going on here. Have you verified that you have 12v on the yellow wire (or might be purple) under the dash while cranking?

The most common would be the ignition switch. The other would be that you still have the starter kill relay in there somewhere. Also, there is usually 2 12v power wires that go into the colom. You should have one that is red and another maybe red with a white stripe. They should always show constant power but since you say that everything else comes on normal when you turn it on, I'd rule that out.

[89IROC&RS]

your positive battery cable is shot, get a new one. im 80 percent sure thats your problem, especially if you had to clean corrosion away from the terminal, it probly got down in the cable, and has damaged the wire inside the insulation. get a new battery, and a new positive battery cable, and the problem will probly be fixed.

[vettespeed]

Originally Posted by 89IROC&RS

your positive battery cable is shot, get a new one. im 80 percent sure thats your problem, especially if you had to clean corrosion away from the terminal, it probly got down in the cable, and has damaged the wire inside the insulation. get a new battery, and a new positive battery cable, and the problem will probly be fixed.

I cut open the battery cables and the part that holds in the battery bolt. There was tons of corrosion. I got it all off. no broken or eaten wires. I even cut back the cable to the starter. Even tried bypassing the cable direct from the batt. almost to teh starter. no luck. trying ignition now.



how will I know if ignition is busted? any signs?

[FormulaLT1]

With the ignition in the run position you should have power to the underhood Fuse box.. If you have a test light I would make sure your getting power there first.

[vettespeed]

Originally Posted by FormulaLT1

With the ignition in the run position you should have power to the underhood Fuse box.. If you have a test light I would make sure your getting power there first.

Okay that was good advice. Still won't start. Everything in the fuse box has power when in run position. That made me think. So tested the fuse with my test light for the "crank" The 3 amp fuse. In run position it is not on. Turn the key to "start" and it lit up. So Wouldn't that mean my ignition switch is good?

[FormulaLT1]

If your getting power to under hood not interior fuses then yes your ignition switch is good.

[vettespeed]

Originally Posted by FormulaLT1

If your getting power to under hood not interior fuses then yes your ignition switch is good.

Yes I am getting power under hood, I tested the interior ones also. They were all fine.

[89IROC&RS]

well, i know you cleaned it, but i still suggest replacing the battery cable. how was it that you tried to bypass the positive cable??? what did you use for a jumper?

[89IROC&RS]

have you shorted the starter with a screwdriver to see if it turns over?

[4onFloor]

Originally Posted by vettespeed

If there is a starter relay I can not find it.

i think it's behind the driver's side kick panel below the dash, atleast it was on 3rd gens.

if you can find it, i'd jump it to see if the engine cranks. if the engine does crank then your problem is either ignition switch or VATS related. if it doesn't, then i dunno what to tell ya

[vettespeed]

Originally Posted by 89IROC&RS

well, i know you cleaned it, but i still suggest replacing the battery cable. how was it that you tried to bypass the positive cable??? what did you use for a jumper?

I just got under the car again and tested the big cable that runs from the battery to the starter with my test light. It tested good.

I'm kinda worried about getting under the car and doing the screwdriver thing. I would be worried it would fall off the jackstands