moving battery????

[Protek]

In another thread, "25$ intake" ShockJon said "I moved the battery to the back so it could have some room!!" How do you do that? Were did you move your battery to? and how did you mount it?


PEace.

[natcc99]

sometimes you can find kits that help you with this process.

you place the battery in the trunk.
part of the reason for doing this, is to make more room in the engine bay.
but it's mostly because it evens the weight a little more. It puts a few pounds from the front of the car towards the back.

[Smitty90acc]

GimpyAccord posted instructions for this procedure more than a year ago... Let me see if I can find the file anywhere.

[Smitty90acc]

This was originally posted by GimpyAccord on the old purehonda.com site:

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Disclaimer: Im not responsible nor is this website if you fry, mangle, burn down, or otherwise --- up vehicle. Before attempting this make sure you are sure of yourself and that you have plenty of fiber in your diet n' stuff. I imagine this voids a few electrical system warrantys.. so think before you do this. Also this information is for the 1990-1993 Honda Accord.. adapt accordingly.

1.) First of all carry yourself to WalMart and get a marine battery box from the battery section ($6.97) Make sure you get the TOP to it and the canvas strap is inside the box.

2.) Next go over to home depot and buy 30 ft. of 1/0 (say One Oct to the guy) black solid core cable. Now I used this because tinned braid cable is about 3 dollars a foot and solid core is only 80 cents a foot... i did this for cheapness. Solid core is TOUGH stuff to work with.. so if you want an -easy- time buy the tinned but be prepaired to pay $. Also go buy about 10 feet of plastic wire loom.. you know that corrigated plastic stuff that honda (or any stereo shop) uses to cover wires. Get the 3/4" thick loom.. just make sure that 1/0 cable will fit in it. Also get some LARGE crimp-on power rings (3 or 4) .. big enough to fit that 1/0 cable. Pick up a crimper that can handle that big of a ring if you have to. Also grab some RED and BLACK electrical tape.. 1 roll per color should do the trick. dont forget a bag of ZIP TIES!!! you should leave paying about 30-35 dollars. Oh yah and make sure you have some tin snips or something.. that 1/0 cable is HARD to cut.

3.) Time to visit autozone / discount next. Buy yourself some new terminals (unless you have trick gold stereo style ones). I bought a set of black/red epoxy covered terminals with a quick release lever on them.. toolless terminals is what their called.. and man they RULE. I work on the car a lot and all I have to do is pop the lever up and viola the battery is disconnected. About 7 dollars is what you should leave paying.

4.) Time to goto work. Open thy hood. Disconnect the battery and remove it from the vehicle. Remove all the battery mounting gear/pan.. put it in the attic because you wont be using this again. NOW .. look at your starter you will see that one of the positive cables from the battery went to the starter.. get out a socket and REMOVE this cable from the starter.. save the nut!!!!! Also remove the grounding strap from the car (the negative battery cable) It bolts to the engine block below the starter. NOW look at the fuse box near the firewall on the passenger side. You will see on the side facing the front of the car the OTHER cable that came from the positive terminal on the battery went there. Take off the fuse box cover and get out an 8mm socket and REMOVE this cable.

5.) Open the front and rear passenger side doors and remove the kickboards and pull up the carpeting. Pull the front passenger carpeting back enough to where you can see the silver cage of the ECU. Above the ECU right about in the middle you should see a rubber grommet.. poke it out carefully.. you now have a big hole into the firewall that comes out under the charcoal canister. If you're already using this hole car car stereo use .. remove your car stereo cables because the battery is going to be in the trunk anyway now. If this rubber grommet/hole isnt there.. I dunno what to tell you. Get out the drill. Get your 30 ft. of 1/0 cable and measure it in half and cut it with your tin snips. now you have 2 15 foot cables. Push your 2 cables through that hole in the firewall.. now go back to the engine compartment and route those cables to their respective places (this cable is hard.. so dont get frustrated). (I tried to stay with the stock honda wire bundles just so it didnt look too rigged.) Now that you have one cable going to the fuse box and one going to the starter .. strip the cable back about 3/4" and crimp a power ring onto each cable. Put them back on their respective places just like you took them off.. get out the RED electrical tape and put a red stripe around the cables occasionally.. just to remind any mechanic working on the car thats HOT .. you're halfway done!!!

6.) I bet right now you're saying.. this cable is some thick stuff. .. it wasnt fun to bend around in the engine compartment was it? Anyway now its time to run this cable to the trunk. zip tie the cables about every 6-8 inches and put a red stripe around it as well.. I put it betweeen every zip tie.. just to remind people thats HOT POWER. Run under the carpet.. around the front passenger kick board area take special care in how you run the cable... if you dont tuck it up high enough and close to the under carriage of the car as you can you wont be able to get the kickboard back in (i found this out the hardway). Also get out that loom you bought and put loom around the cables where they go into the firewall.. you dont want those ever rubbing bare.. a fire would happen for sure. (poof!)

7.) Once you have the cables near the trunk of the car fold down the back seat of the car and unbolt the passenger side of the backrest so you can slip the cables BEHIND the backrest. Also (assuming this is a 4 door Accord) the little back cushion that is to the left of the folding down seat comes off.. take it off. Bold on the bottom and then just pull it UP. Run the cables under that plastic/carpet covered trunk wall .. as you can see you have A LOT of spare cable. pick the place where you want your battery box to be (not too close to the back of the seat or it wont fold up!) make sure its on the right side of the car.. otherwise you lost the point of this mod.

8.) Mount your box to the trunk deck cover.. im not going to go into how you do this.. everyone does it their own way. I got out my dremel and cut holes on the bottom for flush mount screws.. for now. If i ever have the gas tank out i'll bolt the box TO the car. .. oh yah NOTE: the gas tank IS UNDER where you'll be working.. think before you drill. Just make sure it wont fly off/around the trunk...

9.) Cut the cables to the length you need and strip them 3/4" back and put on your POSITIVE terminal. Use the loom if you want to make it look more oem/pretty.. i did.

10.) Now use about 2 feet of the scrap cable... strip both ends back 3/4" and put a ring on one side and the NEGATIVE terminal on the other. Slip the ring side under that plastic/carpet covered trunk wall (where the positive cables came through) and then loosen one of the nuts on the top of the right rear shock. .. put the ring on the shock bolt and tighten it back down.. this is your ground.. im not going to explain how DC power works in a car in this... just do it.

11.) recheck all your work.. make sure you have no bare wires or anything... connect the terminals to their respective battery posts.. everything should be A. OK!!!!

12.) Go get a beer @ the Corner Store doing 65 around a corner. .. if you're under 21 enjoy a nice cola.

if you wreck your car in step 12 im not responsible.

I hope this was good enough!!! Should give you a general idea on how to perform this! Maybe you can improve upon it???? who knows... all I know is i wasnt going to pay 225 dollars for a KIT to do this. By the way this took me about 2.5-3 hours to finish.. i even had a couple small issues i had to work out.. so have some time on your hands. excuse any lame grammar and spelling... im a mechanic not a professor.
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[Protek]

Sweet, thanks guys. Im gonna have to give this a wirl once it gets a little warmer out.

[ShockJon]

Hey its me again... Don't try to do it the cheap way it only saves you about $10 and the battery will move around on you and stuff like that!!! That is if you drive hard EVER... But the kit from summit racing is $42.95 and it comes with every thing you need to do it with.... so they claim.... but if I had it to do over again I would have bought that instead of the home depot deal....

[Protek]

Right on, I was thinking of getting the kit anyway, just to save the hastle of finding everything. But I whent to the summit racing website and couldnt find the kit. What is it called?

[Protek]

Nevermind, I found it. But were did you say the best place to mount batter is? Passenger side, or driverside? An what did you strap it (mount it) to?

[ShockJon]

well me personally I don't have a spare tire for weight reasons but I would mount it in the hole for the spare or just to the right of it against the wall on the passenger side... that way it kinda counter acts your weight also.... I will post a pic this week of mine.... the strap that it come with is ok but there is also a H-bar that the summit kit come with that is the whole trich!!! I don't have one YET but I am going to do that this week probly.... Without that H-bar you can't enter any kind of racing competitions.... If you are into those things.... They require you to have that.... for even test and tune at the drag strip!!!