Best clearcoat for Tamiya Decals?

[geofroley]

What would be the best clearcoat for sealing the decals on the F50 for the air filter? I'll be using MicroScale, so it has to be compatible with that as well. Also, if I use this clearcoat for decals on bodies, can I put coats of automotive clear over it? I won't be polishing this decal, so drying out time won't matter. On a completely unrelated note, is the Aoshima Spo-Com parts set any good? http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljpage.cgi?AOS03432

Sorry for the big request.

[Tikiman]

I just ordered that jit so i would be interested to know aswell. I suppose it will be about 3 weeks before i get my hands on it.

[geofroley]

Originally Posted by Tikiman

I just ordered that jit so i would be interested to know aswell. I suppose it will be about 3 weeks before i get my hands on it.

It looks really nice. Decals, gauges, seats. I'll be ordering it when I start my ITR project.

[Peteex]

Don't use the tamiya clearcoat, it will make the decals lift.

[Bilson8tor]

Originally Posted by Peteex

Don't use the tamiya clearcoat, it will make the decals lift.

didnt make mine

[Bas Carwash]

Originally Posted by Bilson8tor

didnt make mine

Peteex is right, never use Tamiya clear coat on decals. Only works when decals are done with a lot of micro sol. I use Testor for clear coating my decals.

[geofroley]

Testor lacquer? I heard that MM Metalizer sealer is good too.

[Martbee]

Originally Posted by Bas Carwash

Peteex is right, never use Tamiya clear coat on decals. Only works when decals are done with a lot of micro sol. I use Testor for clear coating my decals.

Wait a minute... what Tamiya make the decals to lift ?? The TS or the X because I never experience that kind of problems with the X-22 and when I'm using the TS, I seal the decals with a little drop of X before. TS alone takes a little practice to make it look good because the solvent tend to wrinkle the surface of the decals if not properly lay down.

[proosen]

MM metalizer sealer is very good on decals. I've used it for some time now and has yet to experience any trouble. Sure it smells strong but it dries in an instant so I don't think it matters. Shot about 1½ tin on my Original-teile Mercedes without any problems and it still looks good after a year. If you put on TS-13 very carefully you wan't have any problems with that either, just build the layers really slow with dust coats in the first rounds.

Niclas

[geofroley]

Alright guys thanks for the help

[StephenDeli]

Metalizer sealer sounds like a great idea...Never thought of that!

[americanmuscleman]

talking about clear coats, i have a question to. can i use tamiya spray and testors gloss with eachother?

[StephenDeli]

^Yes you can. But make sure the testors goes over the tamiya otherwise your in barney.

[proosen]

Originally Posted by americanmuscleman

talking about clear coats, i have a question to. can i use tamiya spray and testors gloss with eachother?

Like Stephen says, no problems if you put enamels on top of laquers but not the other way around. I used MM metalizer sealer on my Impreza and that one has been sitting around for four years now without any problems. Something that I had some bad experiences with is Humbrol on top of the AS- and TS-range, not that it didn't spray on good or had any bad reactions. But it just wan't stick properly, even the low tack Tamiya masking tape lifted the enamel right of You could even chip the paint of with your finger nail without using any force at all. This happend on a base coat of some AS-grey on my AJ-37 Viggen and on the white primer on a rallye car. Best is using the same make on all the paint that goes on. But there is no harm in trying, every now and then one comes up with something that works.

Good luck!
Niclas