Dead Cylinder

[barteldt]

can anyone tell what i have going on. my 3 cyl is only 2 now.. cylinder blew. its been drinking oil likr koolaid and tonite im driving down the hiway about 65 mph and i felt it lose power fast . it still runs but if i rev it up it was blowing smoke. when i too kit home i pulled the plugs off and #2 was covered in oil. i change it to see and no diffrence. is it fixable or should i get a diffrent engine? only has 108,000 on it. how hard is it to swap the engine. do i have to take out tranny etc

[geozukigti]

Well, i dunno about you, but my Geo doesn't like drinking Kool Aid. Maybe that's what happened to it! . Heh, well, anyways. Sounds like the rings are shot in that cylinder. The piston is most likely scraping the wall. To rebuild that motor, it would need to be bored, than honed, new pistons, and all that good stuff. Grab a good JDM motor off Ebay, or get a fairly low mileage motor from a junkyard. You can drop it in in a day.

[geozukigti]

Oh, and about the motor removal *forgot to add that*
Un-plug all the sensors and such, and MARK EVERY PLUG!!!. Also, note all your ground wires, and where they're at.
Take the tranny out with the motor, it will make your life much easier

drain the coolant and oil
remove all cooling lines, shift linkage(cable if it's an auto)

Pull the drive axles
Hook a chain lift to the motor
un-hook the motor mounts from the engine block. Don't un-hook them from the frame, it'll be a BIG pain in the ass to get out
lift that bad boy out
un-hook the tranny from the engine
Lift the engine up, carry it to the nearest dumpster, throw it in. Or, if you feel like learning to rebuild a motor, use it as a guinea pig. No harm in screwing up a bad motor
After the motor is out, remove the motor mount brackets (not the rubber ones) and attach them to the new engine block.
Drop her in(should get a DOHC motor )

Manual transmission seperation from the engine block:
Drain the trans before removing the axles
Un-bolt the starter
remove viewplate from the bottom of the block
remove all bellhousing bolts
pull straight out. Might take a little coaxing.
REPLACE THE CLUTCH WHILE YOU HAVE IT OUT

Auto Tranny removal:
Drain the tranny before removing it
Un-bolt the starter
remove viewplate to gain access to the flex-plate
jam the engine from rotating with a screwdriver between the flex-plate(flywheel) gear teeth, and the tranny block.
remove each of the bolts holding the torque converter to the flex-plate.
remove bellhousing bolts
GENTLY slide the tranny off of the block.
When removing and re-attaching the trans to the block, always have the torque converter in the trans, not attached to the flex plate. If you leave the torque converter on, and you tilt the trans or jam it in any way while removing or attaching the trans, you'll damage the seals, and the oil pump in the trans. rendering it a piece of garbage.


Recemmonded things to do to as "while i got it out" stuff, cause it really blows to do it while the engine is in the car

Replace main seals on the engine
replace timing belt
replace imput shaft seal on the transmission
replace clutch/throwout bearing
Anything else that could go bad later, that would be a pain in the butt to fix while the engine is in the car.

Generally, when you buy a used motor. It's been chillin' on a shelf for a few years. So the seals have a tendancy to be dry-rot, and will start to leak in a few weeks. So replace them before they do. be sure to use plenty of lithium grease on any sealing surface when installing new seals, to ensure a good seal, and good lubrication.

Any other questions, just ask

[barteldt]

ok thanx