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#1
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a 396 big block with dual quads and a turbo setup mounted to it. crazy, man. wonder what else is hiding under the skin...
http://www.noneckschevelle.com/image...eochevelle.htm
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11.67@117 "plaster your ass to the back glass" .... put yer motor where yer mouth is..... |
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#2
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how bout the quad turbo camaro that www.hotrodmagazine.com had featured???
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#3
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that looks like a centrifugal s/c to me... looks like a paxton or powerdyne style setup...
the direction of the tubing looks like s/c style, doesnt look turbo style... |
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#4
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That is a supercharger.
Centrifugal... Turbo's aren't gear driven...
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2001 Trans Am WS6 (A4) ![]() |
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#5
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i knew, that, i was pointing it out, i assume that there is a site those are from, i'd love to get the info...
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#6
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Damn that car brings back memories of my '69 SS. Have to give 'em points for orginality though!
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You don't own a Skyline, then don't cry to me about it! 1992 Silver R32 GTR tickled to 450hp. - Sold when I left NZ in 2004 Arguing on the Internet is like competing in the special olympics. Even if you win, you're still retarded. Never confuse kindess with weakness. AF user guidelines, Please remember to abide by them ![]()
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#7
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okay yeah this cars gonna seem out of place in this thread, but what about the bugatti eb110? its a quad turbo stock. look at it this way, u only pay a little over $100,000 for EACH turbo, and u get the rest of the car free!
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#8
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hey fastrthanu.
that's a quick chevelle you've got there. Care to post specs? |
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#9
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That's one slick set-up......any idea as to the budget required to build it?
As for the buggatti........that sounds about right, hehe!!
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EVER SEE A FAMILY SEDAN TAKE A 5 LITRE MUSTANG? I HAVE! ![]() Not Your Regular SSEi ... 1. Rebuilt, finely tuned engine. 2. Custom exhaust, similar to flowmaster 3. Matching intercooler 4. Re-calibrated s/c and transmission to match the above mods 5. Port polish and custom headers 6. Itchy right foot Dynojet: 298hp, 306 ft/lbs torque (at tires) 0-60: 5.479 seconds 1/4 Mile: est 13.4 seconds (hoping!) |
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#10
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ANeg- here's what the chevelle's had done to the motor...
283 bored .030, hot tanked, magnafluxed, and then zero-decked, 305 heads (rebuilt, milled, ported and polished), 11:1 forged flat top pistons, chromeoly rings, full race cam, edelbrock air-gap intake, edelbrock 600cfm performer carb with modified accelerator pump, high volume oil pump, hi flow/low drag cooling system (Summit Racing water pump, 4-row 32fpi radiator) 60,000 volt ignition system, K&N Filtercharger setup, 2.5" Flowmaster/Dynomax exhaust. coming up.... 1.6:1 Harland Sharp race roller rockers, Milodon deep sump oil pan
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11.67@117 "plaster your ass to the back glass" .... put yer motor where yer mouth is..... |
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#11
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Can you please explain just what a "full race cam" is?
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#12
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Kind of a crazy taste in paint schemes.
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#13
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Quote:
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#14
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ummm
he has dual exhaust. if he had any larger exhaust pipes he would lose some backpressure, and that's not good for a street driven small block in a big car. he needs all the low end power he can get.
as well, i would also like to know what a full race cam is. you would need some crazy ass overlap to bleed off the pressure from 11:1 compression or else you would need race gas!
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just ask me i'll tell you what i got |
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#15
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chebbiesux- i'm surprised that you're not familiar with a parts "race" given the cars you have. there are a couple categories of engine parts...... each described by their "race" or how radical they are. it's a term that's been around hot rodders since the 30's-40's. there is "quarter race", "half race", three quarter race", and "full race" this terminology is most commmonly applied to cams, but is also applied to intake manifolds, and heads. each is a step above stock. for example, with a quarter race cam, it sounds pretty much identical to stock at idle(same with a half race, but with a touch of lope) but each has slightly more lift and duration than the one before. with a three quarter race cam, there is a noticable "rumpity- rump-ness" in the idle. a full race cam has a very rough idle. it's lift and duration are radical, especially in terms of street use.
a 2.5 inch exhaust is optimum for my motor to maintain proper exhaust gas velocity for a strong scavenging effect. i could have gone for a 3 inch and had good results with better breathability on the top end, but didn't want to spoil the sleeper image i have right now. dealing with the 11:1 compression ratio, i run both a richer mixture and retarded spark advance to keep the temps down and the motor out of detonation.
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11.67@117 "plaster your ass to the back glass" .... put yer motor where yer mouth is..... |
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