Car refuses to start

[Stupid93Lum]

Hey all. I have a 93 Lumina 3.1 Euro Sedan. The problem is that the car will not start. About a week ago, the car died while driving and would then not start up. So we had it towed home and i changed the spark plug wires. The car ran fine for another few days, then died on us again while driving. This time i left it overnight, and went and tried to start it the next morning and it started right up. Now it refuses to start at all. The engine cranks but it will not turn over. And after cranking it I can smell raw fuel. The fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, and wires were all replaced within the last 3 months. I do believe that the car has never had a valve adjustment so I'm not sure if that would contribute to the problem. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[cadgear]

Maybe the ICM? Looks like you never changed it or checked it I assume? I had that die on my Cutlass, it was VERY random. The shop we took it to "fixed" it but turns out they never even drove it. The car died within two miles of the shop when I went to pick it up and drive home. Rediculous.

Anyway, check into the ignition control module.

[tblake]

I had that exact problem with my 1990 lumina, stuck 300 in the sucker only to have it run for a day, and crank forever, and ever, and not start. Towed it to the mechanic, he replaced the ECM, and car ran great. so 600 later, 300 of which was unnecessary repairs, the car ran great, and we have since sold it. Sounds to me like a bad computer.

[richtazz]

if you're not getting spark, try a crank sensor first. Much cheaper and easier. The windings in the crank sensor break due to vibration and will start failing intermittently, then quit altogether. If that doesn't fix it, go with an ECM next. It's about the same money as an ignition module, but much easier to replace. Do the ignition module last, as it's mounted on the front of the engine between the radiator and is a bitch to get to. If your car hs air, the only way to do it is from up top by feel, as the AC lines are in the way of getting to it from underneath. If you're getting spark, it may be a fuel pump. Check fuel pressure at the rail, you should have 31-35psi at the rail.

[Jeremy-WI]

Those ICM's are a real gem to replace, don't do it in close proximity to preachers, women, or children

[Stupid93Lum]

Thanks alot for the suggestions. I'll be checkin up on everything soon. Yea when i first told my dad how it was acting, he said that he thinks its the fuel pump. So i'm just gonna cycle through and see what fixes. Hopefully I dont get too down outta cash

[Jen74]

You are having same prob as I was last week. My husband and I just changed the fuel pump, for the second time in one year, and the fuel pump relay, which is under the hood on passenger side, with fuses by the way. The cost was about $75.00-80.00 at Auto Zone, for pump, and about $8.00 for relay. Best bet is to buy lifetime warrenty. I have 93 Lumina 3.1 (not euro) and if it runs out of gas and u try to restart it a couple of times, the fuel pump WILL burn up. I know, I have done it 2 times now. But it really does sound like fuel pump and maybe relay. I relaced both but the relay is cheepest and really easy to replace, just like a fues and it is right under the hood. Good Luck!

[Scott-Ohio]

Consider buying/borrowing a fuel pressure guage (~$37 at AZ) and a spark tester (~$8). The fuel pres gauge hooks up to the top of the fuel rail and the spark tester usually plugs into a plug wire and has a wire that clamps to good ground on engine. If fuel pressure is significantly below 40 psi could be problem with pump (in tank) or regulator (between fuel rails). If no spark, check wires to crank sensor and measure resistance. A new one I recently bought ($17) measured about 980 ohms and bad one measure open/infinity. After replacing the CPS I had spark again! Also see if tachometer reads anything when cranking or when/if you get it to start again. If you have good spark and good fuel pressure, then measure resistance of the 2 fuel injectors you can access without removing plenum--one by oil fill cap and other diagonally across from that one. If either are less than 10 ohms, remove plenum to measure all 6 injectors. These Multec injectors tend to short out and you should replace all 6 even if only one reads lower than 10 ohms. You can get 6 recond Multec injectors for $150 (2 yr warr.) or 6 Bosch recond injectors for $200 (lifetime warr) from Linder Tech Services in Indiana--I'm not affiliated with them just passing on a great value from a place who knows what they're doing. Good luck!