1985 Vanagon

[acercflyer]

from: [email protected]
1985 water-cooled fuel injected VW Vagagon (1913cc)

I recently purchased a 1985 type 2 T3 water-cooled fuel injected 1913cc VW Vagagon. This particular Vanagon had recently sat for over 4 years on a central Montana farm. What a fantastic piece of German engineering! It has a few little problems that I am slowly working out. The biggest of which. Is the fact that it goes through gas at an incredible rate? I am getting around 8-10 mpg. I am sure this can be improved. Until I do a complete engine overhaul this winter. In attempting to get better performance and gas mileage out of it.
I replaced the “original” distributor cap, wires, rotor and spark plugs.
The old plugs were extremely fouled with carbon deposits.
After going only 450 miles with the new ones, the performance began to wane. Becoming sluggish and weak. I pulled the new plugs out only to find that they are also extremely fouled out.
Again I replaced them with fresh ones and regained some performance and MPG.
Again after about 370 miles I pulled the fresh plugs out only to find that they too are also fouled out with moderate carbon build up.
Again I replaced them with fresh ones and regained some performance and MPG.
After an intense Internet search on VW fuel injection. I learned of some switches in the fuel injection system. One for idling and down shifting, and one for full acceleration. Moreover, something about a cold starting setting that triples the fuel delivery during extreme cold weather starts. My van produces a little black smoke upon starting the engine. It is a dark black smoke, and it usually subsides after warming up. Unless I am sitting at a red light idling. I just ordered the factory service manual on this vehicle. I expect to understand a lot more when it comes in, but I would welcome any experienced mechanic for help on this topic. My email address is [email protected] any help would be most appreciated.

[boschmann]

You might want to check the coolant temp sensor located in the thermostat housing (forward of the engine on the left firewall), it has white and brown/blue wires. Check the resistance between the two pins with a multimeter. It should be 2000-3000 Ohms at 68F and 200-300 Ohms at operating temp, 195F.