not getting fire to plugs

[l3ol]

i bought a 93 old cutlass supreme and fouind out it wasn't getting spark to the plugs. i replaced the module/coil packs to find out it still didn't get spark. if anyone can help me find out the problem i would realy be thankful.

[SpitAndDirt]

what engine? Malfunctioning Crank Position Sensors are always causing problems. If you have a 3.1L or a 2.8L , the sensor is located at the back of the engine. You will need to rotate the engine forward by removing the "dog bones" to gain access. It is secured by a 8mm bolt and has two wires going to it. Be sure to rotate it and work it out slowly, they tend to be slightly enlarged by heat and stuck in place. Some people have said that their sensor broke off on them and then you have to knock it thru into the pan. Then remove the pan to get it all out. I personally have changed a few of them and not had one break yet. Use some PBlaster to loosen it up also. You may have the 3.8L and it's crank sensor is located behind the Harmonic Balencer pulley. It's also not a bad idea on the 3.8L to replace the Cam Position Sensor also. The 3.1 and 2.8 do not have cam sensors. Check out www.60degreev6.com for more info. Hope you get it started. -Chris

[l3ol]

thanks chris, i havn't heard that solution yet but i will try. if u know any other reason pls post it, maybe i can avoid a 20 mile trip to the autozone if thats not the problem

[l3ol]

i put on a new crankshaft sensor and still no fire

[SpitAndDirt]

Are you sure that you are getting power to the module? Have you checked all your fuses and fusible links down at the starter? It gets kind of difficult from this point on to diagnose without more info. Besides you never said what engine you have or how you tested for spark. Are you sure that you are not getting spark?

[l3ol]

sorry, i got a 3.1 mfi. i pulled plug and wire and seen that the spark plug didn't spark and tried the other ones on the front and all the same. i replaced the module and coil packs. when i did i found 2 wires that were striped about a inch from the harness so i taped them up. i don't think this is the problem because my neighbor bought it brand new and never had to replace anything under the hood. so evidenty it came like that from the factory. i checked all the fuses but not the fuseable links. i stay away from them ever since i fried one in my 86 ford f150 and tried to replace fuseable link and relay but just freid the computer. i guess i'll just take it to the shop. now about the module, how to i see if the wires going to both sides are getting power.

[SpitAndDirt]

You need a manual and a voltmeter. Don't be scared of fusible links. They are there for a reason. But it's your job to find the problem first. I can't tell you which wires for sure, but I do remember there are three plugs. One goes to the Crank sensor, one goes to the computer, and one I believe goes to the Electronic Spark Control Module. But don't quote me on that, I can't remember exactly. Hope this gets you in the righte direction.

[53bruce]

HEY!
I think I know whats wrong, I just went through this on my 3.1!

First, disconnect the battery negative lead, ( so nothing will get damaged)
then, unplug the 3 connectors to the ignition module on the lower front of the engine. these connectors are the DC power, on RH side, the crank sensor and the 6 pin computer interface connector on the left side.
NOW, VERY CAREFULLY, look at the female pins in all 3 connectors, they will be small square shaped. This issue is that when the connecters are attached to the module, the male pins in the module are NOT touching the female connectors. so, I took a very small pick and CAREFULLY wedged the female pins up out of the connector body about 2 mm, then used a minature pliers to squeeze them very slightly, then pressed them back into the connector, so that when they were connected, they will touch!
This drove me NUTs!!! I had meticulusly checked each and every wire from pin to pin, but ithe engine still would not work at all!( but everything still seemed to be right)
Then, by a stoke of luck I saw on the schematic the the engine computer picks up the ground on the 6 pin connector of the ignition module, so I rang out the path through the module back to the battery and SURPRIZE, it was open. Better, when I moved the 6 pin connection back and forth, I could see the connection making and breaking. So I did the above procedure on each and every pin and now THE ENGINE WORKS! :-)
And, It seems to run almost perfect now.