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#1
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Downpipes
alright before i go and buy a test pipe, i was wondering if it was just worth it to get a stillin downpipe that eliminates the main cat and the front pre cat? do downpipes create noticiable gains in a near stock car? will i notice a diffrence? is it worth the 300+ bucks?? thanks guys
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1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Twin Turbo- Forged Ross Pistons,Forged Crank,Forged and Shotpeened Rods,Stillin DP,K&N FIPK,Greddy Type-RS BOV,Magnacor Wires,Aluminum Y-Pipe,EGR Blocked,All Gutted Cats,Greddy Turbo Timer,Blitz Boost Guage,Autometer A\F Guage,Solid Shift Bushings,Red Top Batt,ACT 6 Puck Clutch,Free Boost Mod,99 Front End Conversion
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#2
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Re: Downpipes
The downpipe is definantly worth replacing.
I suggest reading this: http://johnmonnin.netfirms.com/Downpipe.html it is a great comparison of all the aftermarket downpipes. But the stock is very restrictive and you can pick up quite noticeable gains if you replace it. Especially if paired with the removal/gutting of the 3 cats. I do suggest if you get the stillen dp that eliminates teh front precat, to either gut the rear precat or buy a rear precat eliminator, as you want the airflow to be equal between the 2. But removing all that unnecessary backpressure will really improve the performance of your turbos. I would recommend it quite early in the stages of modifications. Paired with a boost controller and open element intake you are looking at close to 400hp at 14.5psi Hope that helps.
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96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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#3
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Re: Downpipes
damn thanks for the link man, real informitive, u think i could really push close to 400hp with just the downpipe,open intake and 14.5 psi? do i need fuel mods to push 14.5 psi. wheres fuel cut agian? thanks
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1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Twin Turbo- Forged Ross Pistons,Forged Crank,Forged and Shotpeened Rods,Stillin DP,K&N FIPK,Greddy Type-RS BOV,Magnacor Wires,Aluminum Y-Pipe,EGR Blocked,All Gutted Cats,Greddy Turbo Timer,Blitz Boost Guage,Autometer A\F Guage,Solid Shift Bushings,Red Top Batt,ACT 6 Puck Clutch,Free Boost Mod,99 Front End Conversion
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#4
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do u think the downpipe alone would show noticebale differences on a n/a car? possibly paired with an intake?
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#5
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Re: Downpipes
thre3kgt811...I don't know about an N/A car, but I would think it would be noticeable. Another guy just posted about the 3sx n/a downpipe on his car being a great mod and he seemed to like it alot.
Knight, as far as 14.5psi that is generally the excepted top psi you can push out of the stock fuel system safely. At 15psi you will get knock. Stock 91-93s run 9-10psi from the factory, and 94-99s run 11-12psi. As you can tell just from that fact, the stock boost gauge sucks and is highly inaccurate. So to reach 14.5psi, you need an accurate aftermarket boost gauge that will allow you to monitor the boost levels. Then a boost controller, either manual or electronic to boost to 14.5psi. Somewhere around 15psi you will start getting knock(pre-detonation) so even if your car seems fine, you could destroy your pistons and ruin your engine. So don't go higher than 14.5psi without upgrading the injectors and fuel pump. As far as 400hp, if you have your car in good running order, ie, good plugs, wires and fuel filter. Then have an intake, gut your precats, a downpipe, and run 14.5psi I would think 400hp possible.
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96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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