Replaced the alternator, NOW IT WONT IDLE!

[FiXThIsCaR]

Okay, it kind of idles... for like 3 seconds...I had to replace the alternator and have yet to replace the battery in hopes that maybe my battery might still werk! (OH PLEASE OH PLEASE OH PLEASE!)

But like I said, I replaced the alternator...the thing wasn't pullin but 2volts in the end.

I have yet to check to make sure all the vacuum thingies are connected and properly tightened. But it just started doing this today!!

I'll be at a redlight, and the car will "Surge"(what i mean by that is it acts like my transmissions slipping, or almost like I'm pressing on the gas, with the brakes pressed too.) and this has actually gotten worse since I got my alternator replaced. (Still don't think it has anything to do with my alternator.)
But I'll be a redlight, and the car will "Surge" and then cut off. It restarts great now (Thanks to my alternator!!) But now it won't idle ( What's wrong with it now?!!!!!!!!
My mom thinks I need to set my idle higher, but I dunno bout that either...


anyone helping would be great!! THANKS!

[jeffcoslacker]

Idle memory relearn. Or just let it idle, in gear, with brakes applied, for about 15-20 mins. It will recover.

[jeffcoslacker]

If that battery is shorted, like I said before, it can cause that also. Plus it will more than likely destroy the regulator in the new alternator.

[FiXThIsCaR]

Originally Posted by jeffcoslacker

Idle memory relearn. Or just let it idle, in gear, with brakes applied, for about 15-20 mins. It will recover.

What do you mean by "Idle memory relearn"? So I should just start my car and put it in drive and sit with my brakes depressed for 15-20 minutes and then see how it does?

[FiXThIsCaR]

Oh yeah... I was also told it could be the fuel filter... is that also a possibility and should I get this replaced? lol


(I shoulda made my name "DumbGirlSmartCar" LOL)

[jeffcoslacker]

Originally Posted by FiXThIsCaR

What do you mean by "Idle memory relearn"? So I should just start my car and put it in drive and sit with my brakes depressed for 15-20 minutes and then see how it does?

That's one way to do it. They usually recover after being driven around for some time in stop and go conditions, so if it hasn't improved by now, that's probably not the problem. If the fuel filter has over 25,000 miles since the last change, it should be replaced whether it is part of the problem or not. Is the check engine light being set during all this? I mean, is it on all the time now, or does it come on while driving around?


Anyhow, how far have you driven since the work was done? Your car's ECM will not relearn and change operating strategy until driven at a variety of speeds and conditions, so if you are just driving it around the block or something, it's never gonna improve. Sustained driving at over 40 mph is where most of the learning and adjusting occurs.

When it stalls, can it just be put in nuetral and restarted on the roll, or do you have to stop and wait for it?

[jeffcoslacker]

O.K. here is the other thing I'm wondering. Does it seem to idle O.K. when the engine is cold, and deteriorate as it warms up, or just poor all the time?

[FiXThIsCaR]

poor all the time.

[FiXThIsCaR]

I should also add that it stinks. The Catalytic converter stinks is what I mean.

It runs will rough, so I need a tune up but like I said, it doesn't idle.

I will come to a stop sign and press my brakes (and if I press my brakes at all.) it cuts off. and I can put it back in park and turn it back over to restart it and it starts fine. There's no problem with the running of it, or starting. It's just the fact that it won't idle what so ever.

I'm goin monday and get a diagnostic test on it to see if we can figure out what's wrong with it (from whatever they tell me is wrong with it.) and see if I can fix it from there.

Is there any other way we can talk besides on the message board? You've been real helpful!!! Thanks!!!

[jeffcoslacker]

The stalling, along with the cat issue, I'm gonna guess that the issue is over-rich mixture, but not 100%. Get any black, sooty smoke from it, or feel like it needs to be revved and "cleared out" after restart?

[FiXThIsCaR]

Yeah!!! Like when I start it up, I have to revv it or it won't stay cranked!!!!! Is that what it is?!?!

[jeffcoslacker]

Yeah, it sounds like the fuel system is overpressurizing, flooding the motor. I would try a fuel pressure regulator. Before doing that, you might want to try pulling a plug right after it dies, before you start it again. If the plug is black and sooty, or even wet and smells like fuel, that's probably the problem. If it looks normal, something else is happening. What did the old plugs look like?

[jeffcoslacker]

More voltage from the new alternator translates to more pressure from the electric fuel pump, could be why it's gotten worse since the alt was changed.

[FiXThIsCaR]

okay Im confused.

[jeffcoslacker]

Sorry, I'm getting yours mixed up with another post. The fuel pressure regulator keeps the pressure at the injectors constant, regardless of the fuel pump's output. When they go bad, they can't regulate pressure anymore, and the injectors overpressurize, causing them to leak fuel into the motor when they are supposed to be closed, see? They open and close on every intake stroke, but if they are dribbling fuel constantly, the motor will flood. Then you get idle stalling and fuel odor, and raw fuel is contaminating the catalytic convertor. If the regulator isn't doing it's job, the extra pump pressure (because the new alternator is now putting more voltage to the fuel pump) is overwhelming the injectors, making the problem worse since the alt was replaced.