stalling 1990 lumina

[bhoundsbrat]

I amnot sure if this will help anyone but I have a1990 Lumina 3.1. The car kept stalling. We changed all the sensors in the engine. I still had the problem. We put the car on a computer and it showed nothing. The guys left it on and were just shooting the bull. When we got lucky and the check engine lite came on just for a sec. But it was long enough for us to be able to tell us that there was something wrong with the coolant sensor. But it was not the sensor it was the pigtail that attached to it had a broken wire. 16 dollars later the car runs like new. It was telling the computer that it was -39 degrees. We had to get the pigtail from a dealership.

[Downtown]

I am not sure if this is my problem but i would like to hear more like at what point was your car stalling?
Mine stalls as i let off the gas and the car starts to coast it seems like its choking itself out done all the tests and nothing...let me know your symptoms and how easy it was to fix...

[franklinm3]

It was long enough for us to be able to tell us that there was something wrong with the coolant sensor. But it was not the sensor it was the pigtail that attached to it had a broken wire. 16 dollars later the car runs like new.

This is Franklinm3...how hard is it to change the pigtail in the coolant sensor...I think I have the same problem

[tigerhawk1]

Hey guys I have a 1990 Chevy Lumina which has run great for the past 10 months up until 2 days ago. If I turn on the AC the car will within 2 minutes stall then when I try to restart it, it will start back up just fine. If I don't use the AC it runs just fine no problems at all any ideas? Any ideas would be appreciated so I don't waste a lot of money diagnosing the problem.

[SpitAndDirt]

try cleaning your Idle Air Control (IAC) motor. If it has carbon build up, the motor can't allow more air into the motor so it can compensate for the extra load of the air conditioning. The 2.8L and 3.1L v6 motors are also prone to needing intake gaskets, and a new VITON (not rubber) O-ring from the dealer that seals the former distributor shaft hole. That plug has a seal that cracks and leaks oil all down the side of the motor.

[tigerhawk1]

I took it to the mechanic today and he replaced the Battery this seems to have elminated the problem. if it pops up again I'll get the Idle Air Controller cleaned. Thanks for the heads up it's a 2.5L engine BTW.

thanks for all the help

[jeffcoslacker]

I forgot that they even put the iron horse in the Luminas.

[tigerhawk1]

Well the problem has come back now it will stall regardless of whether or not I have the air conidtioner on. I tried getting new spark plugs but with those in it wouldn't turn over at all Tomorrow I'm going to try getting some silicone Jelly and putting it on there. I put the old plugs back in but it just idles runs rough and then dies. From what I can tell it seems like it's either not getting enough air or gas and then chokes itself out. Any possible ideas on what could be causing the problem?

When I took it too the Mechanic he told me that if it stalls again it could be the ECM or the Torque Converter. Any helps or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance and god bless.

[Downtown]

On mine the fix was an Ignition control module and a faulty line from the module to the Crank Position sensor... changing my fuel filter helped too... now mine runs great...

[tigerhawk1]

How difficult is it to replace the Fuel Filter on a 1990 Chevy Lumina 2.5L? How much does it cost and where is it located?

[jeffcoslacker]

Your filter is going to be under the car, probably near the gas tank. It is not hard to change, just two fittings on the lines to loosen, and the clamp that holds it in place. Sometimes the fittings can be quite stubborn, if the filter is old. If you dont have line wrenches or two good vice grips, you might end up mauling them too badly to be reused, so don't get too cowboy with them. Also be aware that the lines are under pressure, and fuel will spray when you first crack 'em , so watch your eyes! Make sure the new one is oriented the same way (they are marked inlet and outlet) and if there is an o-ring on the lines, be sure to put it on before reassembly, otherwise it will leak no matter how tight you get the fittings (fast, too!) I had that motor in a 1991 Olds Calais, and after I sold it, there was a similar stalling problem. The guy would never leave it with me to check it out, and on a trip at high speed on the highway, he blew a hole through a piston. His EGR valve was getting hung open, causing a constant contamination of the combustion with cooler gases, which finally stressed 1 piston beyond it's limits. If the car will run normally as long as you are giving it throttle, this could be the problem. I have had good luck giving EGR's a little whack with a hammer, if the jar causes them to seat, the problem goes away temporarily. Then you know what to replace. Keep us posted, and I'll see what else I can think of. P.S. the torque coverter lockup problem typically causes stalling after driving for some time, then coming to a stop. The motor will die, just as if you were driving a stick, and forgot to push the clutch in. (essentially, that's what's happening) It will restart easily, but be slammed to a halt every time an attempt to put it in gear is made. Once the car sits for some time, the TCC solenoid bleeds off pressure, releasing the lock-up, and everything works normally again, until the next episode. I am almost sure that is not your problem.

[jeffcoslacker]

Oh, hey I just remembered, the 2.5 were notorious in all models for collapsed/split vacuum hoses to the MAP sensor causing this kind of stuff. The MAP is on the firewall, or on the top of the motor, not sure which on yours. It is a little black box, rectangular and flat, about 3 inches by 1 inch by 1/2 inch thick, should have one 2 or 3 wire plug, and 1 rubber vacuum line going to it. Look at the bend in the line going to it carefully. If it is split, or spongy and easily piched closed, replace it. An incorrect reading due to poor vacuum will drive the ECM nuts.

[tigerhawk1]

well I replaced the sparkplugs today put some silicon gel on them which seems to help the engine idle and run better. It still dies, but now when it does it cuts out and doesn't chug. It makes me wonder if the problem is the ECM, because when I took it to the mechanic (around the time I got my battery replaced). When he hooked up his computer the car would sputter and die when he unhooked it. it would Idle just fine and not stall. Also when it stalls could this be related to the Idle Air Controller not giving the engine the proper amount of oxygen? The weird thing is it still starts up just fine. I wonder if the engine is getting flooded at all.

[jeffcoslacker]

I think I am wasting my time here. Does anyone check what I ask them to?

[Downtown]

I always checked and tried your suggestions.... this guy doesnt seem too.....you were quite helpful to me Jeff.....

The fuel filter on the 2.5 hmm isnt that the one that requires a special tool a fuel line seperator?