Rear Hub Bearing ??

[Lee70]

I just had my front struts and left bushing replaced along with straigtening out the camber, must have hit to many potholes and curbs. The mechanic said that I had a noise coming from the back passenger wheel and that the Hub Bearing would need to be replaced for $200. I can't afford that right now since the other work cost me $630.

My question is, Do I need to have this done soon or can I wait a little while on this? What is the Hub Bearing and what is it's function? Can this be fixed by myself or does it have to done in a shop?

If you can help me that would be great. I just found this site and I will come back with more questions again.

Thanks,
Leanna

[Three_Fingers]

Yes, I would get it done a.s.a.p. If it's making noise-that means that it's dry and it's already beginning to destroy itself.

Any wheel bearing's purpose is to "Bear the load" of the entire wheel on it's axle and allow it to turn freely without wear to the axle.
Should this bearing melt and come apart due to lack of lubrication (grease), the entire wheel begins to wobble (stick a CD on a pencil and hold it sideways and spin it to see what I mean).
There is a very good risk of the wheel collapsing into the fenderwell and stopping you. Also there is the possibility of the entire wheel just parting company with the car at speed. The bearing and axle nut secure the brake drum to the axle, the wheel is bolted onto the brake drum, That lil' bearing and nut is all that keeps the wheel on.
It's really easy to fix.
Raise that corner and take the wheel off. There's a cap over the bearing-pry it off carefully with a flat screwdriver. There'll be maybe some grease in there-find the cotter pin that goes between the castellated 'notches' in the big nut in the center-bend it straight and pull it out. Then remove the big nut and the keyed washer behind it.
Grab the brake drum on both sides and shake it a little side-to-side, the outer bearing should fall out.
The drum slides off over the brake shoes. (Don't breathe any of the dust inside the drum! It contains asbestos and it's bad for you.)
Now you're looking at the brake shoes and the axle.
Check the axle to see if it's chewed up at all on the tapered part. If it's not, this'll be an easy job-if it's mangled, it'll need to be replaced (not hard either).
Chances are if the bearing is chirping-the axle's prolly OK still.
You'll need a can of hi-temp bearing grease, a new inner bearing, a new outer bearing (The tapered one), and a new inner bearing seal.
Turn the drum over so you're looking at the outside (rusty part) and check that there's no scoring or damage inside the smooth shiny part in the middle where the outer bearing came out of. If it's torn up-the drum needs replacing.
Notice that if you look through that hole, you can see the inner bearing on the other side.
You'll need to whack that out of there with a big socket or piece of wood-try to knock it out as straight as possible. The inner bearing and seal will come out together.
You can dig the seal and bearing out-but it's not recommended to do it this way because it's too easy to damage the sealing surface.
Once the old inner bearing is out-coat the smooth shiny part it sat it with grease and pack the new bearing (put a glob of grese in the palm of your hand and holding the bearing like a donut-drag the edge of the bearing cage thru the grease sideways until grease comes out the other side-keep turning the bearing and dragging it thru the grease until grease is coming out the other side all the way around the bearing), push the new bearing in nice and straight. I use a big socket or piece of pipe and gently tap all around until the bearing is completely seated. Then grease up the new seal and tap it in straight on top of the bearing. (gently).
Then schmear some grease on the tapered part of the axle (not TOO much) and slide the drum back onto it.
Pack the outer bearing the same way you did the inner one and put it into the hole in the drum-you may need to move the drum a bit so it'll go in all the way (This bearing is the one that holds the drum straight).
Grease the keyed washer and align the tab in it with the notch in the axle and push it on.
Screw the castellated nut back on with the notches facing outward. DO NOT TIGHTEN IT! It doesn't need to be tight.
tighten the nut so that the drum JUST gets hard to turn by hand and then back it off until the drum JUST turns easily. Line up one of the nut's 'notches'
with the hole that goes thru the end of the axle and put a new cotter pin thru it and bend the ends over (This keeps the nut from working loose).
Take another glob of grease and stuff it into the bearing cap and smack it back on the center hole in the drum (tap it with a hammer or piece of wood if it's tight).
Slap yer wheel back on and you're good to go.

[Lee70]

Thanks!!!!

I will get on that ASAP. I really don't hear the noise coming from there. I'm glad it something that we can fix on our own. I can't affort another menchanic bill.

Leanna

[Neonlightz]

interesting... you're talking about replacing the BEARINGS.. and not the hub. I found it easier to buy a new hub at a junkyard that was still in great shape and replace the entire assembly. It only cost $50 for the part.

It may just be the year difference of the vehicles we're speaking of.. however, I'm about to replace the entire hub assembly on my '96 Cav and after looking at your instructions.. i'm glad i'm not dealing with the bearing itself.. yikes! Have fun Lee.. good luck.
L8rz