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#1
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Switching to an Rx-7?
Hey guys
I was looking into purchasing a 95 Rx-7 sometime in the future and was just wondering if I could get info on the pros and cons of owning this car. I have done some reading on some of the common problems that come with owning a Rx-7 but have also seen that no mater how many bad reviews it gets, everyone that owns, or test drives, one is still more than satisfied. I would also like to here some feedback straight from the horses mouth since I do not know anyone personally who owns a Rx-7. I also wanted to see if I could get some good 3rd gen. Rx-7 sites because I have not been able to find ones that give good information like specs, models, last year made in US (I think 95?) and detailed pictures. The only site that I could get consistently is cardomain- its always f*ing cardomain. Thanks in advance |
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#2
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Re: Switching to an Rx-7?
if you've never owned a rotary, then I'd say stay clear of RX7s. Unles you have the money to pay for labor and repairs, then it is your money pit. Of course the car is great and everyone I know who drives one, ends up wanting and buying one. After a few months or years, then end up selling it because of the payments and costs to maintain a healthy rotary.
Anywho.. 1993-1995 USDM FD3S (2002 was last made in Japan) 255 hp w/ 217 lbs of torque (flywheel specs) 2750-2900 dry weight (depending on the model) 1.3 Liter 13B-REW twin turbo Colors: Montego Blue, Vintage Red, Chastise White, Brilliant Black, Competition Yellow Mica Pros: One of the best made suspension and handling. 50:50 weight ratio. Near best power to weight ratio. Superlight and fun to drive. Large aftermarket parts variety. Cons: Lots of cooling/overheating issues. Occasional cracked hose or vacuum leak that can lead to bigger problems. Expensive maintenance costs and parts. Expensive and harder to find in good condition. If I were you, start out with the FC3S. Thats the best way to learn about rotaries. After a few years, moving up to an FD3S isn't a problem. - Kevin
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-1987 Mazda FC3S TII - dynoed 316rwhp 06.28.04 S5/S6 SP motor w/ HKA T04R @ 14psi CP Racing 4point Roll Bar Cusco ZeroII Coilovers SSR Watanbes RS-8 17x8F:17x9R - 1993 Mazda FD3S Competition Yellow Mica R1 - 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR4 - daily grind JDM EVO RS motor w/ EVOIII 16G turbo |
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#3
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Re: Switching to an Rx-7?
http://auto.consumerguide.com/auto/t...?Criteria=rx-7
that should have all the info on the car that you need oh and go to www.howstuffworks.com to learn more about rotaries and how the work, even if you know the basics or have looked up info on them this is by far the best site to learn them because it has animations and is described in good detail the FD's(3rd gen incase you aren't familiar) tend to need rebuild around 100k miles as far as I know, they aren't always the most reliable cars but upgrading a few things such as the radiator can make them very sound cars, rotaries in general don't break down too much in stock or slightly moded form, as long as you talk to her, keep her oil clean, etc. anyways I'm not a big pro on FD's so maybe someone else can give you more info if you need it
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1989 RX-7 TII --- Just got rebuilt and street ported RB 3" dual exhaust, BNR stage 1 modified factory turbo, FCD, S-AFC II, 720cc secondaries, Aftermarket Turbo inlet duct w/K&N, Hawk HP+ pads HKS Blow-Off Valve, Stainless brake and clutch lines |
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#4
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Hey thanks for the info. Yeah the maintanence on this car seem to be its major drawback as I have read before. Also the vacuum system was said to be horribly difficult to understand/ repair when problems arise. I love the look of the car but will read more info. on rotary engines to see what I could be getting into.
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#5
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Re: Switching to an Rx-7?
maintanence really isn't that horrible, we all tend to stretch it to be worse than it is so that people that don't take care of their cars won't buy them, but as long as you keep all your fluids changed and get checkups as suggested in the owners manual you shouldn't have problems
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1989 RX-7 TII --- Just got rebuilt and street ported RB 3" dual exhaust, BNR stage 1 modified factory turbo, FCD, S-AFC II, 720cc secondaries, Aftermarket Turbo inlet duct w/K&N, Hawk HP+ pads HKS Blow-Off Valve, Stainless brake and clutch lines |
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#6
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Re: Switching to an Rx-7?
I wish I could afford one... I drove a FC... personally I like the FC better.... it's for one Cheeper, also a really cool thing I heard (not sure haven't looked myself) but the FC (2nd gen) Rotary engine can hold a 600 shot of NOS! if that's not reliable i don't knwo what is! also I've talked to a guy who blew the seals in the second Rotor in a SA22 model (1st gen RX-7) and it still ran strong just blew alot of black smoke when you flored it. Rotarys are also expensive because major engine work requires the engine to be taken out of the car unlike piston engines whose parts you can take up and out without moving the engine. also the point of the turbo it helps keep Fuel Air Mixture in the cusbustion chamber but to get them fixed or buy new ones are expensive! NA RX-7 any of them will loose A/F mixture out the exhaust port this problem has been fixed with the Renissis.
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Current Car,: 1997 Mazda Miata bone stock. Sold: Mazda RX-7 TURBO II (blown apex seal) aka: Sara HKS F-CON, Defi Boost gauge, Greddy Ext. Temp Gauge, Greddy Blow off Valve Greddy S-type, full 2.5" exhaust system with Greddy Muffler, OBX Highflow resinator Sold: 92Mazda MX-3 GS, Tropical Green Metallic |
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#7
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Re: Switching to an Rx-7?
lone_night_fox : you should forget what you've heard about the 600 shop FC 13b story and the SA22 engine running strong on one rotor. ppl told you bullshit.
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#8
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Re: Re: Switching to an Rx-7?
Quote:
600 shot....you heard wrong |
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#9
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Re: Re: Switching to an Rx-7?
Quote:
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#10
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Re: Switching to an Rx-7?
sounds like you have done some reading! thats always good, and yes the suspension is amazing on the car, and a good suspension upgrade will let you tear up any track. good luck
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1989 RX-7 TII --- Just got rebuilt and street ported RB 3" dual exhaust, BNR stage 1 modified factory turbo, FCD, S-AFC II, 720cc secondaries, Aftermarket Turbo inlet duct w/K&N, Hawk HP+ pads HKS Blow-Off Valve, Stainless brake and clutch lines |
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#11
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Re: Switching to an Rx-7?
I don't own an rx7, but from experience of my friends, the rx7 is not a car that you would buy for reliability. It requires alot of work to maintain and my friend had to rebuild after 70,000 miles. It seems to me that the rx7 is not worth it unless you have big bucks, a lot of time, and a lot of patience. I can't remember a time when my friend's rx7 hasn't been broken in some way or another.
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1997 BMW 540i 1969 Mercury Cougar XR7, 351 Cleveland 1993 Mazda MX3 GS 2002 Mercedes CLK320 2002 Ford SVT Focus |
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#12
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Re: Switching to an Rx-7?
sounds like your friend bought from a bad owner or isn't the best owner himself... or just happens to be a bad car... but for the most part they work fine on normal maintenance... I've had mine for about 10 months and the only time it sat was while the clutch was out(this is a normal occurance, mine was at 102k miles) besides that I've had no problems at all... I changed all the fluids and stuff before winter last year and I change my oil every 2500 miles, thats about all there is to do really...
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1989 RX-7 TII --- Just got rebuilt and street ported RB 3" dual exhaust, BNR stage 1 modified factory turbo, FCD, S-AFC II, 720cc secondaries, Aftermarket Turbo inlet duct w/K&N, Hawk HP+ pads HKS Blow-Off Valve, Stainless brake and clutch lines |
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#13
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Re: Switching to an Rx-7?
About rebuilding- if this had to be done what components would you have to rebuild and about how much are we talking- this is one of the major issues I do not completely understand. Also does the RX-8 have this same prob. or no since it incorporates newer technology- just wondering, don't want to buy it or anything. And I keep hearing that this car is sooo expensive, but how expensive can it be cause it is only a mazda(no offense), if people are spending like porsche amounts of money on this car I don't think it would be this popular and many people would probably have the porsche- Am I wrong?
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