Air conditioner isn't cool!

[spirit27]

I have a 944 S2 and the air conditioner works but it doesn't blow out any cool air. I'm burning up in this summer heat. I can't afford to take it back into the shop right now and I thought maybe this is something I can fix myself.
Any suggestions?

[xveganxcowboyx]

Recharge?

[83-944]

R-12 is only available at shops and is about $70 per Lb.

[xveganxcowboyx]

I thought you could get it canned at autoshops, but it was labeled for non-automotive use? I understand the basics of converting, but I've heard you can just recharge with an aerosol can. I've seen ?R-20? or something like that. What's the deal with that stuff? If I can't recharge easy I'll do a conversion, but I'd like to atleast test with R-12 to make sure everything works first. Plus I don't feel confident enough to convert.

[FabricGATOR]

I think the biggest problem for me when I first started to try my own A/C repairs was the evacuation. If a system is low on refridgerant, thats one thing. Addition of the same refridgerent can be a simple task as long as you can identify the high and low side of your system.

Now if the system is flat empty or you changed a component (opened the sealed system) then you best evacuate (pull a vaccuum) to remove any air and moisture. My suggestion is that if your handy and confident to change your components, but dont have the equipment to charge it properly then bring it to a shop and have them do the evac and charge.
Change the accumulator/dryer if you are doing maintenance where as the system is open anyway AND it hasnt been changed in 5 years or so..-OR- if the system has been open to the atmosphere for some time. You will be glad you did it. The Acc/Dry is a dessicant and a filter. Dessicant being like the "do not eat" package found in a pill bottle. It absorbs moisture and can become saturated if left out in open air. It also has been found to deteriorate over extended time so thats why it should be changed if older.

Conversions...... R134a has a smaller molecule that can more readily pass through the rubber hoses that were used on R12 systems. The best is to change the hoses to a "barrier" type hose now used with R134A systems. A typical leak on 944 (I beleive this to be fact) is the high pressure line from the compressor to the condensor. If you replace this hose and run 134a then definatly use a barrier hose here.

When you leak, you loose oil. If using 134a and adding oil, use "ester oil" as it mixes better then "pag oil" (other type used with 134) with any remaining mineral oil from the old r-12 charge. Add an ounce for a new accu/dyrer. A new compressor should hold aprox 6 oz. Some compressors have it in when you get, others do not...... you better find out. Too much oil takes up the space for refridgerent and will be less efficient. Too little oil can cause the compressor to seize.

I purchased the new barrier hose (afore mentioned... compressor to condensor) and a new dryer. I will replace any O-ring I come across with a 134 compatible o-ring (new) (lubricated with ester oil while installing) I may remove the compressor, hold in differnt positions while turning the hub to drain and measure the oil charge in it. Depending on how well I think I drained it and how much I get out (measured) I will add clean ester oil to the compressor (aprox 4-6 OZ) I'll probably pour an additional Oz into the dryer.
(or can be added by the charging machine)
If I dont re-oil the compressor I'll probably add aprox 4 OZ to cover the new dryer and lost oil due to leak.
As far as the other hoses go I dont have the time and patients nor dollars to replace them all, I suspect that they'll be OK for a while and will use barrier when time to replace,(as needed) especially for the high pressure side of system.

If anybody reads this and see's that I'm about to make a costly mistake or feels that I am seriously misinforming the community...... Please SHOUT at the top of your (keyboard).......

Kurt

[FabricGATOR]

P.S. If you use an autoparts refill kit/tool/cans (or even a professional manifold/gauge) Be sure to purge the air out of the hoses before connecting to the system! Air in the hoses will get into your cars system and can create excessive high pressures and stress on the compressor. Open your source (can of new refridgerant) valve and let it gas off a few seconds to push the air from the refill hoses. You can even let the new refridgerant flow slowly while you connect to the car...

Just a few after thoughts...
Kurt

[FabricGATOR]

A MVAC freon card can be gotten online for about 20 bux...... websearch "mainstream engineering" you'll have to take an open book test.

[83-944]

Fab, so good to see you! Seems like you've been busy!

[FabricGATOR]

We had been on vacation. We took a Piper Cherokee to North Carolina, and Pensacola. Quite a bit or weather to avoid, including the first hurricane off Charleston when enroute from NC to Pensacola.